The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Here are some pictures that hopefully help a little. If I remember correctly, the seal housing is staked in four places. It is recommended to break the seal housing and get a new one to replace it. However, when I did mine, I couldn't get new housings but just the seals. We managed to remove the out...

Here's what Wikipedia has to say about the situation in Finland:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Healthcare_in_Finland

That kind of pick-up hook is pretty much the standard in Finland. Almost every tractor has one.

1. In the first picture you'll see a pipe coming straight up from the hydraulic pump (the pump is the light grey colored part between the big gears at the bottom). It goes to a corresponding hole in the top part (visible in the second picture). There are o-rings at both ends of the pipe which you'll...

Here's another daft question: I was just reading the New Major and Super Major owner's manuals (english versions). In both of them the starting procedure under "extreme cold conditions" is to turn the engine by hand using the decompressor and engaging the excess fuel device. I started to wonder what...

Mike, that's awesome! Thanks very much for the info. Something doesn't add up, however. The 18 mm bolts that I've got have 11 threads per inch (if I did the measurement correctly). Or now that I think about it, it may be more like 11.5 tpi. That is almost the same than the 11/16" 12NC. Maybe the 16....

Still no luck finding the 11/16" bolts but the guy who promised to order some for me, gave me an M18 (18 mm metric) bolt to try. Lo and behold, it fits perfectly! There are two possible explanations. Either the M18 and 11/16" UNC are by coincidence almost identical in size or someone has forced an M...

Thanks Brian for the tip. I'll get it changed in the near future. I've heard about the "silent drive" but I think I'll stick to the old one. I wouldn't want to lose the original "Major Sound"

I wouldn't want to hijack the thread but I too have a question about the timing. If the injection pump fiber coupling is worn, does it affect the correct timing? In mine there is almost 1 mm free play in the coupling. Bytheway, would changing the fiber piece help to make is less noisy?

Thanks for the info, Brian.

Timo

Problem solved (I think). I noticed that one rotating shaft was stuck. I disassembled the innards completely and cleaned and greased every part. No teeth were broken on the plastic gears. I assume that there is enough free play in the gears so that they just jump a teeth instead of breaking when som...

The hour meter in my Major doesn't work. It has showed the same 6882 hours all the time that I have had it. I have driven the tractor very little but I would have expected some movement by now. Today I took the meter off and opened it. Nothing seems to be obviously broken or stuck. Does anyone have ...

I was going to remove the stub axle and compare it to the old one this weekend but I didn't have the time to do it after all. But by visual comparison it seems that the angle between the stub axle and the steering arm is slightly different than what it should be. The fault is clearly with the stub a...

Now that I'm home again I was able to take some more pictures. Here's the "new" left hand side stub axle that is currently installed. The one that is supposedly wrong. http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/7538/lhnew.jpg Here's the original left hand side stub axle that was replaced. The new axle is cl...

Timo, The half gap were the stud is going through did not fit on my Ebro king pins. Because the steering arm was a half groove turned the gap also had to be moved a bit. When the gap in the king pin is worked half a groove to the left or right, it's modified. Also the Ebro king pin would be 10 mm l...

Thanks for the link, Henk.

henk wrote:If you found out that the hole for the stud that goes trough it is modified you have a wrong king pin

What do you mean by modified?

Timo

Look at the top of the stub axle, it is far taller than a normal Ford one. It is a replacement and they sometimes get it wrong. So it seems. I didn't notice that before. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll compare that with the original next weekend when I get to the tractor. There is no way to modi...

Brian wrote:I would say it is the wrong stub axle on the left side, with the drag link.

How can you tell that? Is it visible in the picture? Just curious...

If the problem is the stub axle would it be acceptable to try to adjust the tie rod? Or is changing the stub axle the only way to go?

I went through the old parts that got replaced and I found the steering arm and an old spindle. It seems that I changed the spindle also after all but forgot it. I must have experienced a senior moment :oops: My excuse is that it was several years ago (I started the restoration 8 years ago). Anyway,...

Your links on the top of the stub axles should be keyed in with bolts onto the splines so again there should be no way to get them wrong bt wear in the groove might make a difference. Possible cause: Splines engaged in the wrong position on stub axles. I'm aware of the fact that the steering arms (...

I should have mentioned this earlier but I have changed all the bushings in the steering linkage and tightened most of the slack off. I also adjusted the front wheel bearings just last weekend. Everything looks straight. The left hand steering arm is not the original one, though. It had been welded ...

I had my first real test drive with my Major yesterday and noticed that it doesn't want to go straight at higher speeds. The right front wheel wobbles a bit due to slightly bent rim. It also really needs a new bearing but this is probably not the problem here, although it is not helping either. I me...

That is starting to look very nice! I used the same method when I painted mine. I just washed and degreased the tractor thoroughly. It was covered with thick layer of old grease mixed with dust. I had to wash it several times with a pressure washer. I used blue paint-over-rust Hammerite paint as a p...

Today I asked from a couple of places including a NH dealer but they didn't have them. My dad was a bit luckier. He asked from a small machining shop and the owned promised to order the bolts. The imperial sizes are a bit hard to get here in Finland.

Timo

Nonetheless more CCAs means more potential to do harm if something's wrong, eg a short somewhere, given that the starter circuit has no protection. So it seems sensible to not to fit a larger battery than is necessary, say 700CCA? Happy to be corrected :wink: I think that it doesn't matter very muc...