The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I bought mine over a year ago and the clutch plates had shifted slightly in the housing. They would line up with the transmission drive shafts but not the engine. I finally had a pilot tool made similar tho the ones used for auto clutch installation. A little "nudging" and we got the housing so it w...

Here's a pic I made for myself when I got mine:



and this:

DITTO!!

And thank you to ALL of the members for the help my tractor has received over the short period I've been a member. The collective knowledge of this community will be sadly missed.

You can get a new one on fleebay for about $35US or agriline has them for £30.00 incl. VAT. Depends on how much you value your time as to whether you would be inclined to do that.

Just an additional piece of info for you:



OK ... I can't spell either

First ... Welcome! Your pics didn't show up but it sounds like you have a Major (52-64) ... but I could be wrong. Engine, Transmission and Rear End ALL use S.A.E. 20W/30W HD for temperatures -7C and above. Engine Oil Grades for Fordson Major all models. -18C to –7C … S.A.E. 10 HD or S.A.E.10W HD -7 ...

58vintage says he got a complete assembly with the new cover plate and it worked well. However, it appears that I'll be the guinea pig on building this one up with new parts. I'll revisit this thread after it's done and let you know how it goes. Hopefully I will remember to take pics to post. Does ...

Brian - Thank you for the tutorial

I think the light went on.

The new clutch should be a pre-assembled unit with both plates fitted. It just bolts onto the flywheel as the flywheel on a live clutch has no place for the drive plate to run like a normal clutch. I emailed Agriline about that and was told the "Improved Dual Clutch Cover Assembly" IS pre-assembled...

Thanks Martin and Brian.

Sounds like it's not as daunting a task as I had originally thought. Probably a lot easier with the new version of the Cover Plate.

58vintage -

That is what I'm hoping but splitting the tractor in the field is a pain and the clutch is original. So even if the clutch still has some life left in it, once it's split I might as well do the clutch too.

James - Thanks for your input. Did you buy the complete clutch assembly or did you just get the clutch plates, bearings and front cover? You are right, the new cover plate looks like much less trouble than the old one. I asked if they had a complete assembly and they told me they did not. The cost o...

I'll try the break thing with all my parts crossed for luck. If that doesn't work, I didn't see a complete dual clutch on Agriline but they have an "improved cover plate assembly" which if it replaces all the springs, fingers and other dooda's would make the rebuild a lot easier. I have the mortgage...

Sorry in advance if this is redundant for you, but have you pushed in the extra fuel button on the pump before starting? On my PM I have to do that before every time I start, even when the engine is warm.

Phil -

The Raised PTO has no seal after the bearing on the shaft between the rear end and the housing. Put a bucket under it even if you drain the rear end.

Brian - You wrote: The only thing that connects them is the clutch thrust bearing and the linkage to the clutch pedal. If I remember correctly, as the clutch pedal is depressed it first disengages the drive clutch and then the PTO clutch. So if the PTO disengaged properly the problem is after the th...

oehrick You were half right on the operator error. I started it with the PTO lever in the disengaged position. I first tried put the tractor in gear and couldn't. So I tried the PTO lever and got the same grinding sound so I assumed neither clutch plate was disengaging. I forgot that the PTO clutch ...

Any chance of something like condensation/cold weather has frozen the plates to the clutch unit? Brian - Cold temps are not an issue. Here at 19° above the equator the minimum temp we get is 53F (12C) but our low for the last few days has been in the mid to upper 60's (18-20°C). :mrgreen: It's in t...

I do have a Live PTO (2 Stage Clutch).

Are you asking me to start the engine with the PTO and Mower engaged; bring it up to PTO Speed; push the clutch in and shut the engine off?

Here is a listing of Seals, O-Rings & Bearings that were posted here some time ago but I can't find the post:

http://cwaiii.com/images/seals%20and%20bearings.pdf

Do a Google search for the part number and you may come up with several suppliers.

We have been doing some upgrades on the old man and had pretty much finished. Yesterday I pulled it out for about an hour to check the breaks and new power steering and everything worked as expected so I pulled back into the barn and shut down for the day. This morning I hooked up the mower; disenga...

Does anyone have the manufacturer's dimensions of the Radius Rod Yoke Bushing (PN N-3007) for pre- supers?

Thanks Paudie.

Wish I had this advice a couple of weeks ago. I was at the same place you were and finally resorted to a hand propane torch and literally building a jig for my a puller.

If you're going to pull the top off the chest anyway, check the "O" rings on the connecting pipe. When I pulled mine, both "O" rings had flattened out with age and although they still seemed to carry enough pressure to blow the PRV we put new ones on the pipe. http://cwaiii.com/images/connecting_pip...

maxnowell wrote:Thanks whirly. It's just run off the tractor pump, with an isolator valve thing to shut off the loader if the 3PL is needed.

Have you tried to increase the engine RPM to see if that increases the lift rate?