1955 Fordson Major Diesel - need repair help

bob · Post by **bob** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:45 pm

I have a 1955 Major Diesel that I use to mow about 10 acres of grass. It has several items that need repaired, I'm hoping to tackle them one by one with your help. I am very much a "rookie" at any mechanical capabilities.

First, and most importantly, the last time I mowed, my tractor started spewing motor oil on the left side. I traced the problem to a broken oil line, which is made from copper.

I haven't been able to find another line like it at the local auto repair shops. One man suggested using a compression fitting to try to patch the current line. He also said that even if he had a similar line, the fittings on the end of my line were "strange" and he wasn't sure how I would transplant those onto the new line.

I'd appreciate any help, opinions, musings, stories, jokes, or even jeers.

Here is the beast:

Here is the 2 ends of the broken line:

One end connects here, at the front of the tractor:

And the other end connects here, just above the starter lever:

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Post by **Brian** » Sat Jul 25, 2009 8:33 am

That looks a lovely old Major! Shame about the grills which should be blue

.

She is an early one with the first type of engine with a throttle through the block.

The oil line that has failed looks like the one to the oil pressure gauge so your main job is to stop it leaking. A sleeve soldered or brazed over the hole will be quite adequate. You could even disconnect it and plug the port in the block for a short time until you got it sorted out.

terry274 · Post by **terry274** » Sat Jul 25, 2009 12:43 pm

NAPA auto parts may have compression fittings that will work if the copper tube itself is broken. You will have to cut the copper tube with a pipe cutter to get a good square end for the compression fitting.
That is a good looking tractor, very good sheet metal.
Terry

Aussie Frank · Post by **Aussie Frank** » Sun Jul 26, 2009 1:18 am

Hi Bob,

The pipe fittings you have on your pipe should be the soldered on type fittings. If you get a decent soldering iron you will be able to remove them, clean them up and solder them onto a new length of coper pipe. I usually get my coper pipe from a Diesel repair shop that is not far from me, but I am sure you should be able to find it in other places too. The trick is to get everything clean and use plenty of flux and you will have a pipe that is as good as new.

Regards, Frank.

bob · Post by **bob** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:33 pm

thank you all for the suggestions and compliments on the tractor. I did purchase a small tap screw and was able to close the forward opening for the short term.

I like the sound of Aussie Frank's solution, I will get a soldering iron when I have a chance and try to locate some new copper tube for a new refitting.

And Brian, I will also add repainting the grills to my "to-do" list once I get the leaks stopped up and everything running tip top

Kiwi Kev · Post by **Kiwi Kev** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:31 pm

Bob
As Terry274 said, use a tube cutter to cut your copper tube, as they generally don't leave any swarf behind.
If you use a hacksaw or cutoff saw, you will leave swarf in the pipe which will then need to be throughly blown or washed out.
If you are going to repair that old piece of pipe that has a hole in it, it maybe worthwhile replacing the whole pipe.
As the others have already said, nice tractor.
Kiwi Kev

BearCreek Majors · Post by **BearCreek Majors** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:07 pm

Bob, sorry for the kick in the gonads, but if the soldering job on the banjo fitting is your handy work you may be better off replacing the line. You can cut a short piece of the original line with the fitting on it (using a tubing cutter) that attaches to the back of the dash as this is a oddball fitting if you live on this side of the pond, using a ferrule type coupler run a new line up to the fitting in the block. It looks like you’ll have to replace the T with one that has NPT thread to get rid of the banjo fitting and install a ferrule connector to connect the new line.
You may be time and money ahead to just go down to your auto parts store and get a new oil pressure gauge kit and replace the gauge and all. Ether way remember to keep the lines away from the exhaust and use a few zip ties to keep it from vibrating and cutting through the new line again.
If you solder on the line remove it and blow out any carbon that can be produced by high heat.

The oil leaks at your bell housing are bad news, the open hole on the side is for timing purposes, it had a cover from the factory and are very rarely found in place. the hole in the bottom is doing exactly as it was designed to do, drain oil out of the bell housing, the cotter key is there to rattle around and keep the hole from plugging up, its simple and it works. plugging up the holes will only flood the bell housing , this makes the clutch very unhappy. You have two choices, live with it and check the oil in the motor regularly, assuming it’s the rear main that is bad, or you can split the tractor in half , remove the flywheel and replace the rear main.
Again sorry for the kick in the gonads.

And if anyone tells you to dump some super duper fix all leaks crap in the engine…….. I’d shy away from it.

Pat

BearCreek Majors · Post by **BearCreek Majors** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:29 pm

Bob, I just went out and measured the O.D. of the original oil lines and found it to be .280, this will not adapt to any standard fittings over here. Unless your concerned with having your Major look stock, do yourself a favor and install a new gauge and all.

Pat