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Fordson timing????

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:32 pm
by jkilmer83
Ok I have been looking for answers for a long time. Not sure what year maybe a 54-55. It is a FMD and the injection pump was shot took it to a local rebuilder and could not find enough parts to make it work here in the us. I found a tractor with a blown motor and tighter pump. So I changed the pump and cant get it timed. There is no hole to do the flywheel. There is soposed to be a pointer on the front cover but it was missing so I made one to help get me in the ballpark. the pump is all lined up when the intake valve just closes. when I tun it to the pointer I can't get the pump to line up. There is a LOT of white smoke when cranking I think that I'm injecting too early. Any help would be great it almost winter and the 8,000 lb paper weight needs to get running again.
Engine #1275624
IP # spe4a75s498 or 55795d

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:28 pm
by Brian
Welcome to the board.

Your tractor is a December 1954 Fordson Major. Timing should be 29 degrees and as you say, was got by lining up a pointer with a notch on the front pulley. With the notch in position and the engine on No 1, the coupling clamp bolt should be below the drive shaft.

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The position of the bolt is important as this indicates you are on No 1 cylinder. You can time these engines 180 degrees out very easily and this will give all the symptoms you describe.

If you are missing a pointer, the notch should line up with the lower dynamo bracket retaining bolt. Even if it is not exact she will start and run.

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Lining the pump up with the inlet valve is not the correct position. Use your pointer and set the pump in line and she should go providing the clamp bolt is in the position in the picture.

Let us know how you get on.

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:50 pm
by henk
Welcome jkilmer83,

This is were you should find the timing hole on the flywheel.

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Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:13 pm
by jkilmer83
I will try to line it up closer to the lower bolt hole the beacket is gone completely I was fitted with a car altinator and a serman loader. Thanks for the help that is the first time I herd the clamp bolt. I will try to work on it tomarrow. The newer pump should work tho? that is what I am worried about. Thank you for all the info. Jason

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:09 pm
by Brian
Henk,

There was no timing hole in the sump on early Majors, it was on the pulley as in my picture. The change did not occur until around 1955/56.

Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:04 pm
by jkilmer83
well I got the old girl running my timing wasn that far off, but I think that the battery didn't have enough power. So I jumped it with my truck and got her going. I have a little haze when running is this normal or should I play with the timing alittle?? Thank you all for the help!

Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 7:12 pm
by Brian
Well done!

You won't really know about the timing until you have run her a while and got her under a load. There should be a little black smoke then but at this time, you have been putting fuel in and not burning it so the carbon seal will be softened and some of the haze can be oil smoke.

You do not want to really adjust the timing once it is right. Diesels are not like a petrol engine when you can tweak them. A diesel has to be just right and if your pointer is true in its position and the pump marks are lined up, she is correct.

Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:32 pm
by jkilmer83
well I don't know about true. I have 2 diesel trucks and I have the timing advanced but there are measure ments I can take to set that were this is all guesstimation. Thanks again for the help if you want I can post pic for you guys to see her.

Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:41 pm
by Brian
Yes please!

Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:53 am
by TOH
I wouldn't want to hijack the thread but I too have a question about the timing. If the injection pump fiber coupling is worn, does it affect the correct timing? In mine there is almost 1 mm free play in the coupling. Bytheway, would changing the fiber piece help to make is less noisy?

Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:19 am
by Brian
The noise from the coupling is part of the "Major Sound" :D It has always been there since the first Majors. Saying that however, it sounds as if you need a new coupling fairly urgently. They are available from your local parts dealer but I have seen people make their own out of nylon bar.

Also available is the "silent drive" that was on trucks and some industrial applications. It is pretty common in Holland but not so here in England.

Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:54 pm
by TOH
Thanks Brian for the tip. I'll get it changed in the near future. I've heard about the "silent drive" but I think I'll stick to the old one. I wouldn't want to lose the original "Major Sound" :D

Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:31 pm
by jkilmer83
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this is from last fall just after we got it.
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This was how we picked it up