two stage clutch

[BearCreek Majors]

Anyone (Dave?) have experience setting up the two stage clutches. I’d give a left nut to get my hands on a Nuday tool set up, or even get the dimensions from one to make my own but I haven’t been able to find ether. An old mechanic told me years ago to just look them over good, bolt them back together and check for about ¾” from the inner release levers to the outer ones. Any thoughts?

Pat

[Dandy Dave]

I put new clutches in my Power Major about 10 years before I owned it. I just eyed them up and it slid together. Sometimes little tricks help like puting the PTO in gear and turning the shaft from behind to line up the splines. Or turning the motor a little one way, or the other, with the transmission in gear to get the driveline splines to slip in. And then take it out of gear as it slides together. Just make sure that they are well centered. It helps to look around the outer edges to see if it is even all the way around as you bolt the plates together. I have put a lot of clutches in various autos, trucks, tractors, and equipment, and have only used the line up tool when it was provided with a clutch kit, which was not often.

I do not have dimensions as it has been a very long time since I have Split a Major, but if you insist that you want a tool, I have several lathes, and could turn one if someone can provide the dimensions. Dandy Dave!

[Brian]

It is not just one tool that is required, it is a kit of spacers and tools to set the clutch correctly. It comes complete with all the bits to do the Dexta as well.

Do a search here, there was a complete kit offered on the US E-Bay a few weeks ago that was reported on here. Would have been an ideal piece of kit to get hold of if we could have shipped it around the world to all who needed it.

Wear in the pin holes of the links and in the ali. cover are the main areas to look for. Also the heads of the adjusters on the clutch release fingers.

[Tiger]

I had this problem last week, i just eyed up the first plate stuck a round bar in the middle to eye up the second. Then put it back turning the fly wheel a little as i went. Just Lucky i guess

[BearCreek Majors]

In the IT shop manual they show the Nuday NE7502 tool to properly set the release levers when reassembling the two stage clutches, it has a spindle that sets in the flywheel and several gage blocks to use with it. The one that was on E-bay had a different part No and just didn’t look rite, it did have the plate spacers with it but everything else looked wrong. I have already learned when buying items on ebay, if you’re not 100% sure of what you’re purchasing you are probably going to get screwed. I sent the guy a message telling him I wanted it but not for the price he was asking as I wasn’t sure it was what he claimed it was, ( I thought his price was a little steep regardless) I don’t think that made him happy….. and I’m still looking.
If I could find a shop that still has one and get the measurements off of it I can make my own, the problem with this is most shops don’t have them anymore and the specialty shops that rebuild clutches, engines, etc, won’t share for the obvious reasons, they want to rebuild them and have me pay them to do so.
Or maybe I should just bolt the clutch back together as is and give my anal tool fetish a break.

Pat

[Brian]

The one on E-Bay was the proper Ford kit made by Churchill. It did not need the flywheel to assemble the clutch.

I have used it hundreds of times.

[Aussie Frank]

I remember the eBay auction that was mentioned, and I could not believe that it was not offered in a new auction at a lower price after the auction ended with no bids. I was sort of interested but there was no way that I could bring that tool to Australia because of shipping costs. Besides you can still find the old mechanics down here that have the tools to do the job. If only the world was a lot smaller we could all benefit from some sort of tool bank. You are probably right Pat it was too good to be true.

Regards, Frank.

[BearCreek Majors]

Thanks for the info guys, unfortunately for what the guy was asking for that thing I probably wouldn’t have bought it anyway.

Been busy the last week, we looked the clutch over good, bolted it back together, onto the engine and got the engine back on the back half of the tractor. This thing had been sitting for close to twenty years with a spun rod bearing when I got it last year. The rebuild was started but then I got busy with the Roadless and then had the County fall into my lap (ant life a bitch), and the Super got pushed out in the barn. I had to get the Roadless back in the shop and rob the starter and a few other parts back to get the Super running. The wife and I are leaving for vacation later this next week and I and the kids were in a hurry to get it all back together and see some smoke coming out of the stack before I left…..being in a hurry when assembling an engine is not a good thing. As we were setting the timing and valve lash we were turning the motor over by hand ( I hadn’t stole the starter off the Roadless yet) and the motor started to get tight, the more we tried the tighter it got, something wasn’t rite so the next night we dropped the pan and found the #3 cap on #4 rod. The kids swear it’s my fault but I KNOW it’s theirs! I’m just damn glad we didn’t get it started or we would have been back to replacing a rod and fixing a crank.
I’m hoping Agraline gets the new bearings her first thing this next week and maybe we’ll get to see her run yet before we leave.

Pat

This is what I brought home last year



Lots of problems , had to put in new axel bearings & seals, swiched the bull and pinion gears from side to side so the chiped teeth will only grind in reverse.



The clutch all ready to go.



setting the engine.



front clip back on...only to take back off the next night.

[/img]

[Dandy Dave]

Looks like you are making progress. I was thinking about the clutch finger height adjustment. I worked on a 1310 Ford several years ago with a duel clutch that the adjusting fingers bolts were chewed up in. I set the height for both set of fingers with a dial indicator on a magnetic base fixed to the tractor. I set the height to where unworn bolts would have been, and then used the dial indicator to get them equal by spinning the flywheel and zeroing in the dial indicator for a fine adjustment. slid it back together and everything worked fine. Although a little more time consuming than the "factory service tool", it did get the job done with percision. Dandy Dave!

[Tiger]

Nice pics, good work