Sealing Cylinder Liner

[dennis]

Hi,

I have just finished repairing the grooves that hold the cylinder liner sealing rings in place using Belzona and the technique described by Brian in previous posts.

I am pleased with the result and I am now about to install new liners.

My engine is a late '54 FMD with a single O ring. My instinct is to use some sort of gasket sealer in conjunction with the rubber ring but what sort should I use? Has anyone any experience of using a particular brand? More importantly, what sort of sealant should be used at the top of the liner? The repair manual refers to Wellseal but I guess this became unavailable a long time ago.

Dennis

[Kim]

If I remember correctly, HYLOMAR compound was recommended on this site in a previous message. A little pricey but VERY good!

[Ian]

Glad to hear your project is progressing Dennis Our ford 5600, after 5 or 6 thousand hours the block became porous and we ended up getting a new short engine for it. I guess it pays to have some sort of anti corrosion agent in with the water.

[Tubal Cain]

The purpose of the rubber sealing ring fitted to the bottom of the liner is to allow the liner to expand in the cylinder block as the engine warms up. If you do use a sealant it should be of a non setting type which will allow the liner to move in the cylinder block.

Gerald

[Dandy Dave]

Here is the stuff I have been using for years. I have put a lot of engines together and have not had a problem yet. I put some around the sleeve sealing O rings and it serves two puposes. One. It lubricates the O-rings and helps to keep them from tearing on any shape edge, Two, if one of the rings does get a small knick, it will seal it. This is a none hardining product and is perfect for this application. Dandy Dave!

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... _Maker.htm

[liam]

Hi Dennis .What type of belzona did you use as there seems to be a few different types . It is very expensive over here in Ireland .The cheapest type seems to be about 150 Euro per tin .I probably will have to do a similar job on my super major block so I am allways interested to hear about others doing this job.

[dennis]

Hi everyone,

Thank you for your replies and comments.

So, non-setting sealent it is.

Hylomar is readily available in the U.K. but Permatex might only be available in N. America according to their website.

Liam, I used Belzona 1111 in the 400 grm. pack. I bought it direct from the Harrogate head office and it cost me £70 including V.A.T and postage. This size should be more than enough for your repair. Unfortunately you can't buy less, trust me I did try.

I recently bought a replacement engine as the block on my original engine was cracked. When I dismantled the replacement engine I found the bores were in a shocking state and I knew the liners would have to be replaced.

I removed the liners and after cleaning the block found the top half of the sealing grooves had corroded away. Notice the sealing rubber in the following photo is totally visible.



I cut a ring just over 1" wide off the bottom of one of the liners and trued the ring and the shortened liner in the lathe.
I put the seal back in what remained of the groove.
One band of 1/4" wide masking tape was wrapped round the top of the ring and greased very lightly.
The ring was then pressed through the rubber seal using the shortened liner until the liner was fully home in the counter bore. This ensured the ring went into the rubber squarely.
The liner was removed and Belzona was applied behind the ring until it was level with the top, ensuring it was well pressed onto the rubber.



The casting looks slightly rusty in the photo but where the Belzona was applied was cleaned with a rotary wire brush on a flexible drive immediately before application.

Once the Belzona was fully cured it was sanded slightly to fully expose the top of the ring to ensure that the ring came out cleanly.
In the photo you can just make out the top of the ring.



The ring tapped out very easily and the seal was removed to reveal the new groove as seen from the crankshaft side.




One down, three to go.

In the end I decided to buy a full engine rebuild kit, not just the liners, so in the next few days I will be making a start on that.

Hope this helps, Liam.


Dennis

[Brian]

Beautiful job Dennis!

[Kim]

Dennis, thank you for the description and pictures. Very well done, indeed!

[Dandy Dave]

Hylomar is readily available in the U.K. but Permatex might only be available in N. America according to their website.

Permatex is nothing more than Silicone. Get a good grade of silicone gasket maker and you will be good to go. Dandy Dave!

[liam]

Thanks for your detailed description and pictures Dennis .It is much appreciated .My engine block is not as bad as yours,numbers 1and 2 bore are like new but 3and 4 are slightly pitted.A few of my friends said dont bother with the old engine and put in a 6 cylinder but i would like to keep it original.On the subject of what sealer to use on the sealing rings I got talking to local mechanic yesterday and he told me he used instant gasket .It remained flexible and it acted like a lubricant before it set as you pushed in the liner.Keep up the good work Dennis and let us know how it works out.

[dennis]

Hello,

Thank you, Brian, Kim, Dandy Dave, Liam for your kind comments.

Liam, you asked me to keep you updated on progress, but before I do, look at the state of the bores on the engine I purchased. I did not know they were like this until I took the head off but you can see now why I knew straight away the liners needed replacing.

I am sure this engine had been stood out in the open for very many years.





I now have the new liners installed and there appears to be no leaks. I had the block filled with water for two days with no sign of seeping.

Going back to when I first got the new liners and seals, the seals were quite a sloppy fit on the liners and this concerned me, which is why I asked about gasket sealent in the first place. When the seals were in the grooves the liners could not be pushed through by hand pressure - or even my full weight - but had to be pushed through with three short bolts and washers using tapped holes in the cylinder head. I used washing up liquid as a lubricant.

The amount of pressure I had to apply made me fairly confident the seals would not leak even if I used no sealent and so far this seems to be the case.

I did buy Hylomar gasket sealent but only used it at the top end of the liner in the counter bore.

Today, I have refitted the crankshaft but I guess that is not material for this thread.

Dennis

[Dandy Dave]

Hopefully you have it. Sometimes leaks do not show up until you run the engine and pressurize the cooling system. Dandy Dave!

[markr1001]

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