Idiots guide
Idiots guide
Afternoon all,
I have just bought a hobby farm and it came with a 1964 Super Major.
I have been advised that it works ok but i have no idea how to start it. As its 50+ years old, all of the markings have gone.
It needs a good battery which i am buying this week to take out, 1100CCA should do.
I only have the workshop manual and that shows me how to dismantle and repair everything.
If anyone could write out a how to guide on what to check and how to start a '64 Super Major, i would be eternally grateful.
I have just bought a hobby farm and it came with a 1964 Super Major.
I have been advised that it works ok but i have no idea how to start it. As its 50+ years old, all of the markings have gone.
It needs a good battery which i am buying this week to take out, 1100CCA should do.
I only have the workshop manual and that shows me how to dismantle and repair everything.
If anyone could write out a how to guide on what to check and how to start a '64 Super Major, i would be eternally grateful.
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- True Blue
- Posts: 290
- Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 4:00 pm
- Location: Turriff, Aberdeenshire, Scotland
Re: Idiots guide
For the whole story, you need something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUPER-MAJOR- ... SwklJa6yKJ
But, assuming the wiring is still complete.. you should see the ignition key below the steering wheel (with a little lever below it, which is the lights switch)
Turn the key, you should see a red light on the instrument panel. The key on mine needs to be turned anti-clockwise, I don't know if they are all like this? Near it, there will be a knob marked 'pull to stop', or it may not be marked at all. Ensure it is pushed in.
Push down the horizontal lever nearest your left ankle. the engine should start.
The throttle lever is on the right immediately below the steering wheel; the clutch pedal works just like a car's; the two brake pedals (one for each back wheel) are side-by-side, and are normally locked together. They can be used separately to help with steering, perhaps on slippery surfaces. The handbrake is just in front of them.
The main gear lever has 3 forward gears + reverse. The other gear lever, horizontal near your right knee, has 'high' and 'low' positions, working with the other lever to give you a total of 6 forward and 2 reverse gears. The positions of the gears are cast into the top of the gearbox, beside the main lever. On some tractors the high-low lever is pulled upwards for low range (gears 1,2 5, and low reverse) and pushed down for high (gears 3,4,6 and high reverse; and on other tractors these positions are the other way round. It depends what type of clutch you have, and there 'should' be a plate beside the lever indicating which you have.
Welcome to the forum, by the way! If you still can't get the thing to start, don't be shy, we will try to help you, The Super Major is a tough old beast, it was becoming somewhat overtaken technically by other brands by 1964 but it is still capable of hard work, it is still reliable even at 50+ years old, and many spares are still readily available if you need them
But, assuming the wiring is still complete.. you should see the ignition key below the steering wheel (with a little lever below it, which is the lights switch)
Turn the key, you should see a red light on the instrument panel. The key on mine needs to be turned anti-clockwise, I don't know if they are all like this? Near it, there will be a knob marked 'pull to stop', or it may not be marked at all. Ensure it is pushed in.
Push down the horizontal lever nearest your left ankle. the engine should start.
The throttle lever is on the right immediately below the steering wheel; the clutch pedal works just like a car's; the two brake pedals (one for each back wheel) are side-by-side, and are normally locked together. They can be used separately to help with steering, perhaps on slippery surfaces. The handbrake is just in front of them.
The main gear lever has 3 forward gears + reverse. The other gear lever, horizontal near your right knee, has 'high' and 'low' positions, working with the other lever to give you a total of 6 forward and 2 reverse gears. The positions of the gears are cast into the top of the gearbox, beside the main lever. On some tractors the high-low lever is pulled upwards for low range (gears 1,2 5, and low reverse) and pushed down for high (gears 3,4,6 and high reverse; and on other tractors these positions are the other way round. It depends what type of clutch you have, and there 'should' be a plate beside the lever indicating which you have.
Welcome to the forum, by the way! If you still can't get the thing to start, don't be shy, we will try to help you, The Super Major is a tough old beast, it was becoming somewhat overtaken technically by other brands by 1964 but it is still capable of hard work, it is still reliable even at 50+ years old, and many spares are still readily available if you need them
1440276 - 1957 - working
1335674 - err - one day..
Claeys combine M103 - 1963 703129 - working
Ford 7710 2wd, 1983 - working
The Fordson Tractor Pages. Built to be relied on.
1335674 - err - one day..
Claeys combine M103 - 1963 703129 - working
Ford 7710 2wd, 1983 - working
The Fordson Tractor Pages. Built to be relied on.
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- Site Governance Team
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Re: Idiots guide
Jonny,
Welcome to the board. I'm sure you will get it started.
As for the gear layout:
2 versions do exist:
Just make sure that when starting, the gear is in neutral.
Welcome to the board. I'm sure you will get it started.
As for the gear layout:
2 versions do exist:
Just make sure that when starting, the gear is in neutral.
Fordson Super Major New Performance
County Super 4 built on the Fordson Super Major
Selene built on the Fordson Super Major New Performance with Silvant winch
County Super 4 built on the Fordson Super Major
Selene built on the Fordson Super Major New Performance with Silvant winch
Re: Idiots guide
Thanks for the replies. You have no idea how many google searches I've done to find this out.
Heading out tomorrow so I'll give it a go.
Will let you know.
Heading out tomorrow so I'll give it a go.
Will let you know.
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- Site Governance Team & Expert Team
- Posts: 2069
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Re: Idiots guide
Welcome.
Just keep visiting this place and you'll find all the answers.
Just keep visiting this place and you'll find all the answers.
Kind regards, Henk
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
Re: Idiots guide
Welcome, John, to a site that, for Fordsons, is second to none.
Following on from Bob's clear descriptions may I suggest, if not a good service, then at least a good check over.
Firstly, read Brian's post on oils -- found just above your post.
Check the oil levels -- not forgetting the oil bath air cleaner [if you have one].
Pay particular attention to the colour and level of the rear axle oil [dipstick by gear lever]. If its creamy white it is contaminated with water and needs changing. If its level is very high it probably has a leaky internal oil seal. Most times one can make allowances and live with this.
Gear box filler/level plug is just below clutch pedal.
Renew fuel and oil filters [later after having firstly managed to start it with your new battery]
Drain and replace the small quantity of oil in the injector pump.
Top up oil in the steering box.
Grease all nipples.
Coolant. If it has had anti-freeze it is probably O.K. If not, re-fill with distilled water and a good inhibitor [some owners just drain it all out during the winter months or are able to keep the tractor in a warm shed].
Lastly, whilst the enthusiasm is still rampant, do as much as you can -- it pays dividends.
Pavel
Following on from Bob's clear descriptions may I suggest, if not a good service, then at least a good check over.
Firstly, read Brian's post on oils -- found just above your post.
Check the oil levels -- not forgetting the oil bath air cleaner [if you have one].
Pay particular attention to the colour and level of the rear axle oil [dipstick by gear lever]. If its creamy white it is contaminated with water and needs changing. If its level is very high it probably has a leaky internal oil seal. Most times one can make allowances and live with this.
Gear box filler/level plug is just below clutch pedal.
Renew fuel and oil filters [later after having firstly managed to start it with your new battery]
Drain and replace the small quantity of oil in the injector pump.
Top up oil in the steering box.
Grease all nipples.
Coolant. If it has had anti-freeze it is probably O.K. If not, re-fill with distilled water and a good inhibitor [some owners just drain it all out during the winter months or are able to keep the tractor in a warm shed].
Lastly, whilst the enthusiasm is still rampant, do as much as you can -- it pays dividends.
Pavel
Re: Idiots guide
Hi All.
Well the first attempt was a bust. She cranked good enough but not so much as a cough.
Checked the fuel and noted that nothing was getting to the engine.
Traced the fuel and it appears to be getting to the injector unit but not beyond.
I asked the previous owner and he said i had to crack the bleed nut on the injector unit, which i tried during manual priming but not when cranking the engine.
Is this the right process to go on with?
Checked the fluids and everything appears alright but once i get her going i will give it a bit of TLC.
Thanks for your help to date.
Well the first attempt was a bust. She cranked good enough but not so much as a cough.
Checked the fuel and noted that nothing was getting to the engine.
Traced the fuel and it appears to be getting to the injector unit but not beyond.
I asked the previous owner and he said i had to crack the bleed nut on the injector unit, which i tried during manual priming but not when cranking the engine.
Is this the right process to go on with?
Checked the fluids and everything appears alright but once i get her going i will give it a bit of TLC.
Thanks for your help to date.
-
- True Blue
- Posts: 290
- Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 4:00 pm
- Location: Turriff, Aberdeenshire, Scotland
Re: Idiots guide
We didn't mention the excess-fuel button, which works like the choke on a petrol engine.. some engines start without it in warm weather, but it probably depends on how tired your engine is?
Follow the engine-stop cable to the fuel-injection pump, the cable pulls a lever, where that lever pivots is a button (which can be dished or nipple-shaped, depending on what type of pump you have). Push in the button, it should 'click' and stay in, although it won't stay in if the engine-stop button is not fully pushed in (and the engine won't start either).
You should not have to bleed anything, unless you have run it out of fuel, or the filter is choked. If you're getting fuel at the injection pump, she's not far from starting
Follow the engine-stop cable to the fuel-injection pump, the cable pulls a lever, where that lever pivots is a button (which can be dished or nipple-shaped, depending on what type of pump you have). Push in the button, it should 'click' and stay in, although it won't stay in if the engine-stop button is not fully pushed in (and the engine won't start either).
You should not have to bleed anything, unless you have run it out of fuel, or the filter is choked. If you're getting fuel at the injection pump, she's not far from starting
1440276 - 1957 - working
1335674 - err - one day..
Claeys combine M103 - 1963 703129 - working
Ford 7710 2wd, 1983 - working
The Fordson Tractor Pages. Built to be relied on.
1335674 - err - one day..
Claeys combine M103 - 1963 703129 - working
Ford 7710 2wd, 1983 - working
The Fordson Tractor Pages. Built to be relied on.
Re: Idiots guide
This helped me a lot! Just saved a Super Major 1961 from the scrapyard.
All new to me so I am trying to find some documentation.
I found the operating and maintenance manual in French and Swedish, but prefer English or Dutch.
Anyone?
All new to me so I am trying to find some documentation.
I found the operating and maintenance manual in French and Swedish, but prefer English or Dutch.
Anyone?
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- Site Governance Team & Expert Team
- Posts: 2069
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:56 pm
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Re: Idiots guide
Welcome Hans,
Send me a PM and I'll see what I can do about it.
Where are you located in Holland?
Send me a PM and I'll see what I can do about it.
Where are you located in Holland?
Kind regards, Henk
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
Re: Idiots guide
Hi All
Well i have managed to get the old girl running. Turns out the fuel pump leaking is causing air to go into the fuel injection and locking me up.
Cracking the bleed screw on the injection and a few good cranks and shes running.
New pump ordered to get rid of the problem once and for all.
Thanks for everyones advice. Time to give her a good going over.
Expect more questions...
Well i have managed to get the old girl running. Turns out the fuel pump leaking is causing air to go into the fuel injection and locking me up.
Cracking the bleed screw on the injection and a few good cranks and shes running.
New pump ordered to get rid of the problem once and for all.
Thanks for everyones advice. Time to give her a good going over.
Expect more questions...
-
- Site Governance Team & Expert Team
- Posts: 2069
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:56 pm
- Location: Arnemuiden, The Netherlands
- Contact:
Re: Idiots guide
Thats what this forum is all about. Glad we can help.JonnyM wrote: Expect more questions...
Kind regards, Henk
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I