Hydraulics on my new major

henk · Post by **henk** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:00 pm

Robin,

I stopped looking. Maybe I'll search again when it's a problem with ploughing.

Dandy Dave,
Your right about the piston but the cylinder is in good shape. Only a small gab from rust but that’s behind the piston range. If the cylinder was worn the seal would also be worn but that was OK.

John Paul,
It was not my idea, but a friend of mine told me this is the way they stabilize sprayers. There is nothing to hook onto at the rear end so I came up with thus idea, but is not a quick way. Hope to use the same chain to stabilize the plough when driving on the road.

patch · Post by **patch** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:07 pm

They work good to limit how low the lift can go. We use that for a hay rake pinned on the three point draw bar. That lets you raise the rake tounque over rough ground etc.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 7:17 pm

Hi all, just received my hydraulic seal kit order from yesterday tractor. Hoping if someone could tell me if they think what I received is right. The seal I see pictured in this post that I received seems too small, rough measuement is 1 1/8'' ID, an o ring, flat seal and thick flat seal that is split of same size. Also an o ring, flat seal, a thicker flat seal and one thicker flat seal that is split measuring approximately1 3/4". Two o rings that are 1 9/16". One o ring that is 5/8". All measurements are rough using a ruler. I do not want to tear down unless I know I have right parts. I think the parts listing I have states a 13/16" o ring for supply pipe which is not here. The way my luck has been running not surprised if wrong parts, last night I ordered 2 cheeseburgers at a local fast food joint and when I got them there were no buns/bread, really thought I must be on some comedy show but anyway really would appreciate any help. I have a Nov.,1959 power major. And also any recomendation as to another parts place in US to order from.
As always all help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Gerald
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Tubal Cain · Post by **Tubal Cain** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 7:56 pm

Gerald,

You could try this site!

http://www.sparexusa.com

Gerald (aka Tubal Cain)

Post by **Brian** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:14 am

That sounds completely wrong. The Major/Power Major must have the lipped type seal as this bolts on the front of the piston, not in a groove halfway down the piston as the Super Major and Dexta does. On those tractors you can get away with the "O" ring and backup washer.

When I did mine, the seal was specialy made to pattern of the old one as the ID and OD do not fit with the range of sizes available.

I believe you have got to strip it down and take the seal to a specialist seal supplier. You only need seal, cylinder "O" ring and perhaps four pipe "O" rings plus the gasket or a tube of silicon instant gasket so there is really no need for a kit of parts.

The pipe "O" rings can be bought in a box of assorted rings for around £12.00, the seal cost me £11.00 to have made.

henk · Post by **henk** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:46 am

Gman,

Is it possible you received a set for the hydraulic pump?
The piston seal is for sale at Sparex.
S.4723 Seal - Piston - Hydraulic Lift 81718816
E27N994693B
(Major 52>11/

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:57 pm

Thanks everyone for the info. The kit I have, according to yesterday tractor, is for 2" ram cylinder and piston. My options with yesterday tractor was 2" or 3" and based on my Agriline catalogue the power major uses the smaller type. Brian, the seal I have looks like the one pictured on this post, it is a lipped type seal. ID and OD seems too small but may be correct. Anyway, can anyone give me some advice on removal of piston. The repair manual I got from here states to pull oil feed pipe out, does this just slide out and after replacing o rings, just slide back in without any secret knowledge I should know? I thought I would be just removing the piston but manual states to remove cylinder and piston, also states to push piston out the rear of cylinder, not sure about this step, thought just pull piston out without removing cylinder. For part 994573, seals on valve seats, states 1/2" BSP, is this 1/2" ID?
Thanks to all, my profession is a pencil pusher/bean counter so I sure can use all advice/secrets that you can help me with . Hope all is well with everyone and again thanks.
Gerald

henk · Post by **henk** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:03 pm

Gman,

This is really simple. Just remove the hydraulic manifold in front of the 3p cover. By lifting the lift arm by hand you will push the piston out. Then it's easy to remove the cylinder. Only the ram inside will fall in the hole on one end. It’s not easy to put is back in the cylinder when you assemble the cylinder. When you want to remove the stand pipe to put new seals on, you have to lift the cover. You will need someting to lift it because it's real heavy. Would not do this before changing the piston seal..
Just try and keep your eyes open and mind clear and you will see it's easy.
Good Luck.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 3:11 pm

Hi everyone, thanks Henk for the info, I took the valve chest off, cylinder and horizontal feed pipe all came out with it. Thanks Brian for the info on an earlier post as to this could happen when removing the valve chest. It helped me know what was going on, got it all on the bench now. I have found a local supplier that has all sizes of o rings and also very nice people. They knew what I needed when I asked for the 1/2" BSP seals, had them in stock. The piston has a small hole from outside to inside where ball of rod sits in piston, does this hole need to be up, down or doesn't matter? Also how does the area behind cylinder, the ram rod and it's connection to the arm, get lubricated. Thanks for all the help.
Gerald

Post by **Brian** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 5:04 pm

The idea is lubrication comes from the gear wheels throwing an oil spray everywhere.

I always put Castrol MS grease on the piston/connecting rod. This was what Ford recommended for the 5000 when it was suffering connecting rod failures.

It has a high "stickyness" for shock loaded joints and will last for years.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:22 pm

Thanks Brian, I also removed back cover for access and thought there should be some lub added while I had it off. Do you add grease to surface of ball where it contacts piston? Anyone know anything about the hole in piston, does it matter about location,up or down, when I put it back together?
Thanks again to all for your help.
Gerald

Post by **Brian** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:18 am

Does'nt matter about the hole. The piston may turn anyway. I would put it to the top to start with.

Yes grease the ball and leave a big lump all around it.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:28 pm

Thanks Brian, will have to find the grease you recommended. My parts list from this site shows o rings for horizontal feed pipe as being 11/16" but the pipe is larger and no luck in finding correct o rings for this. I was able to save one while removing, seems to be 13/16" or 3/4". I have ordered another seal, maybe correct o rings will be included, although the seal that was on it appears to be ok. Any recommendation as to tell if seal is ok. Does anyone know correct size for these o rings?
Thanks to all,
Gerald

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:56 pm

Hello all, another question. I have the valve chest on the bench and through a hole I can see the unloading valve, where I think my problem is. I can see the small holes of the unloading valve through this hole. Should I be able to see these holes or this an indication the valve is stuck open? Thanks for any info.
Gerald

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 1:47 pm

Hi all, my bad on my last post on this. The holes on the bottom of the unloading valve is not what I was seeing through the hole on the valve chest. I'm seeing a portion of one of the two holes on the side of the unloading valve through the hole on the valve chest. Should these holes be lined up with the holes on the valve chest when I put it back in? As to o rings still not having any luck, I measured and believe the pressure pipe requires o rings to be 11/16"IDx1/8"widex7/8"OD. Unloading valve seat o ring to be 3/8"IDx3/32"wide. Any help is always appreciated.
Gerald

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:14 pm

Well looks like I'm dead in the water as to getting o rings for feed pipe. According to several hydraulics shops a 11/16"x1/8" wide o ring does not exist, no book lists as being out there. Going to another shop later, I understand there is a 11/16"x 3/16" wide, see if anyway they can make to correct size. Only other option I can come up with is taking pipe to machine shop and having grooves turned to 3/16" wide but not sure if this is ok, if will still fit into housing and valve chest without leakage. Any advice besides just giving up?
Thanks
Gerald

Aussie Frank · Post by **Aussie Frank** » Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:58 am

Hi Gerald,

Just a thought on the 11/16" size. Have you looked for a 5/8" x 1/8" wide. This would give some compression on the inside and stretch a little to give some compression on the outside. I am just working backwards from the outer diameter. 7/8" - 2 x 1/8" gives 5/8".

Regards, Frank.

JC · Post by JC » Sat Aug 08, 2009 8:30 am

Gerald,
Here's a link to the New Holland website. http://agriculture.newholland.com/us/en ... fault.aspx I found your o-ring there, and it looks like it should be 5/8" IDx .103" (3/32") thick.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:34 pm

Thanks all for the info. The New Holland site really helped, with it in hand was able to get local dealer to order piston seal and he had o rings in stock. I had been there with my old parts but was told they did not have what I needed. I believe the o rings are correct, will see when piston seal arrives if it is right. Correct o rings per New Holland are as follows if anyone needs info.
2 o rings on feed pipe per my parts list is 11/16" id, per NewHolland .674idx.103thick, I feel sure this is correct, I had found an 11/16idX1/8thick and this was too large.
o ring for cylinder to valve chest per New Holland 2.875x.139thick, again believe this is correct, I had found 2.875x1/8thick-too small and 2.875x3/16- too large.
If anyone has any advice for the unloading valve and postion of holes in side as to holes in valve chest. As always everyone's help is greatly appreciated.
Maybe with some luck I'll have her back together and if I can get my hands on a pressure gage can see how the pressure is.
Thanks again to all.
Gerald

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