Timing and tappets topic

[kiwimc]

Hi all,

Did some ignition work on the 1952 petrol major (new points and condensor). I can't find any pointer or obvious notch on the front pulley so not sure how to time it??
It did start and run (unevenly) though...

Investigating the uneven firing: start at back...
1. Great spark No.4
2. No compression No.4. Hmmm
3. Pop valve gear cover off. Ah! Push rod at lazy angle, and when 'stood up' a 40-50 odd mm gap between push rod and rocker. Rod is OK.

Can the tappets self-destruct? and end up in the sump????



Seasons Greetings

[Pavel]

It saddens me to see an old work horse so neglected.
Irrespective of whether the cam follower [tappet] ended up in the sump -- which is unlikely -- I would suggest that you need to remove it [sump], plus the head, and give them a good clean -- especially all the oil ways.
Pavel
PS. Happy Christmas.

[kiwimc]

Hi Pavel,
I'm halfway through a Dexta rebuild (... and the Wolseley needs engine removal, AJS the wheels rebuilt, house needs woodwork painted, winter firewood to cut, weeds in the garden growing like topsy, new shed to build...), so was hoping the workhorse would just keep plodding on a little longer - sadly not.

Actually I bought this for my wife's birthday a few years back. Can't understand it, she was never grateful or enthusiastic??? Should I suggest she rolls her sleeves up and does a decarb?

[Pavel]

G'day again MC: you are a busy lad.
It appears that the pushrod has fallen into an oil drain hole. That being the case you could remove it and then insert it into its proper hole and see if it contacts the tappet follower. If it does you will, no doubt, have to push it down onto contact with the camshaft lobe. That should enable you to re-fit it to the rocker arm. And whilst about it to re-gap the other valves.
'course the cam follower may have shot out of its hole in which case its head off.
Many owners of gunged up engines are tempted to flush a lot of it away by filling it with a strong detergent diesel oil. The problem with that is that the loosened carbon soon clogs oil pump filters and oilways to shell bearings and rocker arms. Definitely not recommended.

What Wolesley have you? My very first car was a Wolesely 8 circa 1939 bought for a fiver in 1958. Loved it. And as for motor bikes; I was a fan of Matchless having ridden them whilst in the army -- but later ended up with a Thriumph 110.
Pavel

[kiwimc]

An update:
No 4 inlet valve was stuck open, that was why push rod fell out. I've taken head off for degunk, to check valves, and to replace cracked exhaust manifold.
Head should be stamped with a warning "Do not carry upside down across grass or you will lose rotator caps" - damnit! Found one, but one lost forever!?
One of the 3 I have left is the wrong size, so I guess I am not the first one to do it.

Pulled down a 'spare' motor to get replacement exhaust manifold. Broke 3 of the 4 bolts securing inlet to exhaust. Separating my cracked manifold broke 2 of the 4 - so all up broke 5 out of 8. No-one seems to list these special bolts with a slightly narrowed waist. When I reassemble I'm planning on wrapping with a thin layer of plumbers' teflon thread tape or a teflon sleeve to reduce likelihood of galvanic corrosion.

Two questions:
1. The old 'spare' motor had the first large front pulleys and timing pointer with "1 degree" mounted on bracket. The motor I am working on however has later smaller pulleys and no timing pointer or notch in the main pulley. Both are petrols. Should the later one have a pointer? Any tips????

2. On the bulkhead (and listed in the parts list too) are a couple of the small spring plates identical to those on the top of the nose cone that hold the chaff screens. Does anyone have any idea what these were for???

Till next time...