engine overhaul

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AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

Just to help you spend even more money (!), you'll need new bearings + seal for the auxiallary drive shaft when you get it out.
In preparation for the rebuild, you'll also need some Wellseal or something similar for the various gaskets, in particular when you refit the front mounting plate - the gasket here is not one you would want to forget to fit!
Best, Adrian.

Pavel
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by Pavel »

After thought, Mathias. Don't forget the crankshaft thrust washers. There are 2 internal diameter sizes: 3.215 inch. and 3.315 inch. -- both with incremental surface thicknesses of 2 and a half thou. to compensate for wear [max = 20 thou.]
Pavel

mathias1
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by mathias1 »

AdrianNPMajor wrote:Just to help you spend even more money (!), you'll need new bearings + seal for the auxiallary drive shaft when you get it out.
In preparation for the rebuild, you'll also need some Wellseal or something similar for the various gaskets, in particular when you refit the front mounting plate - the gasket here is not one you would want to forget to fit!
Best, Adrian.
Adrian,

I did order the seal as well. Will check the bearings and measure them to order them else where.

What sort of wirebrush did you use to clean the inside of the engine block? Seems a bit deep for a standard one on the drill.
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AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

I used various shapes of wire brush that came in a kit to fit an electric drill.
If you look at the photo I have posted, I cleaned everything on the block apart from the internal walls. Inside the block I felt for any loose flakes of rust and removed them with a screwdriver, but generally I was happy to leave the rusted surface as was. With proper use of antifreeze the rusting process would be inhibited, and inhibited further by the layer of rust already created, which would help protect the bare metal underneath from oxidising.
Re the auxiliary shaft bearings, yes, good idea to take them along to a bearing shop and match them. Much cheaper. Both need replacing, though its the one that sits behind the seal that will be slack. Dust gets in as the seal wears.
Feels good, doesn't it, to deal with all issues in one go.
Oh, as Pavel mentioned, don't forget the thrust bearings. The ones that came in the engine overhaul kit were standard size, but they tightened everything up when I fitted them. I had to source them from a different supplier. The replacements, standard also, were fine and the crank rotated freely. Hopefully you won't have that problem.
Another thing. I forgot to replace the water jacket core plugs on the block and the head. One of them sprung a leak after I had refitted the engine to the tractor. Not a big issue, but much easier to do them at the stage you are now at.
Best, Adrian.

mathias1
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by mathias1 »

I'm struggling to get the oil pump out. The 2 bolts at the bottom are out, but still no movement. Do i need to take the auxilairy shaft out first?
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AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

Hello Mathias
The pump is held in place by the two bolts you mention. It is driven via a bevel gear that meshes with a corresponding bevel gear on the aux drive shaft.
So in answer to your question, no, you do not need to remove the shaft first; on the contrary, you must remove the pump before the shaft and its bearings can be tapped out of the block.
The pump is a tight fit in its recess. Once the two bolts have been removed, you will need carefully to lever the pump out.
Best, Adrian.

mathias1
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by mathias1 »

AdrianNPMajor wrote:Hello Mathias
The pump is held in place by the two bolts you mention. It is driven via a bevel gear that meshes with a corresponding bevel gear on the aux drive shaft.
So in answer to your question, no, you do not need to remove the shaft first; on the contrary, you must remove the pump before the shaft and its bearings can be tapped out of the block.
The pump is a tight fit in its recess. Once the two bolts have been removed, you will need carefully to lever the pump out.
Best, Adrian.
Adrian,

Have it out right now. I removed the plug on the top and tapped it out.
Found the bearings to be rls7 skf and 6204 skf
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

What about the liners? Have you got them out? If so, how do the bottom liner seal recesses look?
Best, Adrian.

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

Sorry to chide you, Mathias, but one notices the absence of photos!
Best, Adrian.

mathias1
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by mathias1 »

Hi Adrian,

Sorry for the lack of photo's and updates. I haven't been doing much on the engine so far. To many jobs to do at the moment. I wish I had more time to speed up the work on the engine.

Got the liners out by dropping a big hammer on the bottom. Didn't have time to make a puller. All went fine. These are a few pictures, still need to clean the block completely.

Image

Image

Image


Image
I've been preparing and fertilizing the meadow about a week ago, I need to haul up my plough for the annual ploughing day of our club. I will use the County this time, so need to look at that one too.
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AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

You're making good progress. Can't see the liner seal recesses clearly, but I'm guessing they are not eroded.
All looks well. Now you need to clean everything in preparation for the rebuild.
Have you invested in a new camshaft? Having gone this far, and having saved money by doing the work yourself, you can justify the outlay.
Having the head skimmed, new valve guides pressed in and valve seats reground to match new valves all crucial, also.
Great project. Keep up the good work!
Best, Adrian.

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

A few more images to urge you onwards, Mathias.
Before and after shots.
[Spot the head core plug I forgot to replace, and which leaked on me when ploughing!]
Best, Adrian.

Image

Image

Image

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

A rebuilt engine achieves complete combustion, meaning full power is delivered and the exhaust runs clear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_esK-WLSuc

oehrick
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by oehrick »

I prefer this one Adrian as it come with a pome https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzJe382iR9Q

There was a young chap from Devises *
Who's coulters were different sizes,
One was so small it weren't much use at all
While the other took several prizes

*I know it ain't in Suffolk but I couldn't think of anywhere that is which rhymed :cry:

Well I had my 61st Thursday, just trying to think of a way of celebrating the old Major's on Sunday /Monday other than treating the village to a solitary cavalcade of 122 years of decrepitude and neglect - treated her to a rinse out of the tank today, I've no idea where the jelly slime comes from or how to prevent it but I know just where it clogs up, I'm thinking of rolling a foot long filter mesh for the tap to replace that stupid little finger job...........
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

Loving the pome and Norfolk lingo, Rick, though coming from silly Suffolk can't pretend to understand all of it!
You and the Major a great combination! Yes, diesel when left to itself does do strange things. I treated the tank with some American sealer. Very good stuff. It takes rust particles out of the equation, at least.
Best, Adrian.

https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike- ... ealer.html

oehrick
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by oehrick »

OK Adrian,

I've heard it said that Suffolk is Norfolk set to music :scratchhead:

The diluted Hammerite washes inside the tank are fine, not a sign of rust, just the waxy slimy jellified whatever, I had shot some ATF into the diesel as someone had suggested and as it doesn't fully dissolve in Acetone I wonder if it comes from that, I don't use much fuel so it has sat for ages.

I've a slight nick in the glass bowl gasket and noticed a thin stream of air bubbles, was going to change the gasket but then thought that as it doesn't leak diesel, having an indicator that suction is being increased was nearly as good as a light on the dash :)
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

As you know, Rick, the various cracked petroleum products have their individual properties. I know a bit more about kerosene, but diesel is close on the spectrum, and shows similar entropy.
Basically, it needs using!
All best, Adrian.

mathias1
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by mathias1 »

So Adrian,

little update.

Have been busy degreasing and cleaning the block.
The bottom of the liners look like these:


Image

Image

Image

Image

Almost there with the cleaning including oil channels (starting from the crankshaft bearings. I think I have one left to do, but need to find the right tool to take out the plug:
Image
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by oehrick »

I've taken recessed square socket plugs out using a socket drive bar Mathius and either shimming the gap with bits of steel (usually secured to the socket bar with wire or tie wraps) or making box section collar to fill the gap, sometimes I've been lucky and found a bit of square steel the right size or near enough to grind to fit then drive that with a socket.

You are making good progress, do you have to work on it outdoors like me or does it come out for photo's and dirty work ?

Having soaked my old girl in homemade grease softener yesterday, I've pressure washed most of the oil bound soil and sawdust off today, (over an inch thick in places) probably the first time in 50 years and there is still plenty left to deal with.

Also got the mudguard lights going again after probably 30 years, although I need to refurb the ones on the nearside (the others were done when I unbent the mudguard and reattached the supports a couple of years back but had no feed until I sorted out the switch) usual jigsaw and silicon sealer job needed on the rear light lens but that's tomorrow.
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

On this holy day, not a bad idea to remember that cleanliness is next to godliness!
Hope you won't mind me saying that what I see in the photos is not the required level of cleanliness. Well, clean is an absolute, to be pedantic, so there is only one level! You must remove everything from the block, then set about rendering everything spotless.
To remove the longitudinal oil gallery plugs I took an old 1/2 inch socket drive and ground it down to fit the square. You'll use it twice and then never again!
You need to remove that oil pressure gauge sender and the blanking plug above. Water jacket drain tap also.
Degrease everything, then go to work with the wire brushes attached to an electric drill. The face that mates with the mounting plate needs to be shiny clean ready to accept a coating of Wellseal and the gasket; likewise the mounting plate.
Still can't see the bottom liner seal grooves clearly. Are they eroded? This is a key issue, so I would be keen to know that the grooves are intact and able to hold the new O ring seals. The grooves should be cleaned with the electric drill wire brush mentioned already.
Clean longitudinal and lateral (lateral = from oil gauge sender aperture to oil filter housing aperture) oil galleries with pull-through and/or rifle barrel rod cleaning kit.
Don't be satisfied until everything is spotless! [See my photos above - I had no workshop, but it still can and must be done.]
Good luck.
Best, Adrian.

JC
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by JC »

Since we are talking about liner o-ring grooves, you also may want to look closely for cracks there. I had a Mk.3 block that also had cracks between the liners on the top of the block. Those blocks didn't have upper liner seals, only lower ones. I don't know if the ones, like yours, with upper seals are more or less prone to cracking.

mathias1
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by mathias1 »

oehrick wrote:I've taken recessed square socket plugs out using a socket drive bar Mathius and either shimming the gap with bits of steel (usually secured to the socket bar with wire or tie wraps) or making box section collar to fill the gap, sometimes I've been lucky and found a bit of square steel the right size or near enough to grind to fit then drive that with a socket.

You are making good progress, do you have to work on it outdoors like me or does it come out for photo's and dirty work ?

Having soaked my old girl in homemade grease softener yesterday, I've pressure washed most of the oil bound soil and sawdust off today, (over an inch thick in places) probably the first time in 50 years and there is still plenty left to deal with.

Also got the mudguard lights going again after probably 30 years, although I need to refurb the ones on the nearside (the others were done when I unbent the mudguard and reattached the supports a couple of years back but had no feed until I sorted out the switch) usual jigsaw and silicon sealer job needed on the rear light lens but that's tomorrow.
I'm working outside for the dirty work. This stage is just getting all the muck out and cleaning it with degreaser and water.
AdrianNPMajor wrote:On this holy day, not a bad idea to remember that cleanliness is next to godliness!
Hope you won't mind me saying that what I see in the photos is not the required level of cleanliness. Well, clean is an absolute, to be pedantic, so there is only one level! You must remove everything from the block, then set about rendering everything spotless.
To remove the longitudinal oil gallery plugs I took an old 1/2 inch socket drive and ground it down to fit the square. You'll use it twice and then never again!
You need to remove that oil pressure gauge sender and the blanking plug above. Water jacket drain tap also.
Degrease everything, then go to work with the wire brushes attached to an electric drill. The face that mates with the mounting plate needs to be shiny clean ready to accept a coating of Wellseal and the gasket; likewise the mounting plate.
Still can't see the bottom liner seal grooves clearly. Are they eroded? This is a key issue, so I would be keen to know that the grooves are intact and able to hold the new O ring seals. The grooves should be cleaned with the electric drill wire brush mentioned already.
Clean longitudinal and lateral (lateral = from oil gauge sender aperture to oil filter housing aperture) oil galleries with pull-through and/or rifle barrel rod cleaning kit.
Don't be satisfied until everything is spotless! [See my photos above - I had no workshop, but it still can and must be done.]
Good luck.
Best, Adrian.
Adrian, The wire brush is the next step. Just need to find one that's long enough to reach the bottom of the liner. Will first try to get into the long oil gallery.

JC,

I haven't spot cracks so far between the liners.
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AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

Invert the block and go in from the bottom with a wire brush wheel attached to drill.
Best, Adrian.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-F3500-W ... 164&sr=8-5

mathias1
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by mathias1 »

AdrianNPMajor wrote:Invert the block and go in from the bottom with a wire brush wheel attached to drill.
Best, Adrian.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-F3500-W ... 164&sr=8-5
Took another drill, and could indeed reach the spot by inverting it.
All plugs out, just need to find a new coolant drain plug as it didn't come out at one piece. Is this the original type of plug used on the super major: https://www.kramp.com/do/action/Product ... storeId=40
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AdrianNPMajor
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Re: engine overhaul

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

This is what you need.
It has 8 hours to run and there are currently no bids at £10. Seller says that it leaks. May be worn, may just need a clean. Your call.
This is the original for your tractor - mine has the same.
Best, Adrian.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fordson-majo ... Swok9ctMy8

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