Oil From Exhaust Pipe

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:58 pm

Ive had my Dexta for Three years now. It had been standing for about Three years previously but was soon up and running. However there was oil spitting out of the exhaust. Took the head off and the bores were in a bad way so i thought it was oil passing the rings. I then ran it for 2 years however due to other wear in the engine i stripped it down a few months ago and had a lot of work done, new liners, pistons,small ends,reground crank etc etc plus the head was skimmed and new valves and guides fitted. Have just finished reassembling it, started lovely and runs without knocks and leaks and zero smoke. However it is still spitting out oil from the exhaust manifold and i would like some opinions. I was told by an ex Massey engineer in the 60,s that Dextas were common with this problem but he cant recall anymore.

marcusgs · Post by **marcusgs** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:49 pm

Hi Hiking Bear, my thoughts on this is that you probably need to give the tractor a good workout on a plough for a day or so, and I would be fairly sure that this problem will dissapear.
See what others think by all means, but I have heared this before, not just with dexta's but also other makes, and this is usually the solution. Give it a go, if it works great, if not you haven't lost anything!

Tubal Cain · Post by **Tubal Cain** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:08 am

A friend of mine experienced a similar problem with a Major that he had overhauled and eventually found that the piston rings he had fitted were below spec.

So my advice is, if the problem is still there after working the tractor hard, suspect the rings especially if you used one of the cheap overhaul kits.

Gerald

Post by **Brian** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:31 am

That comment was a bit thick from the Massey man! They couldn't wait to get hold of that engine in their tractors!

Most diesels will blow oil out of the exhaust if they are not worked hard. We would always recommend putting a tractor into hard work straight after an overhaul and work it hard but fairly. No overloading or revving, just pull the engine down to around the PTO revs.

Change the oil after 50 hours and use the correct grade. Do not use Multipurpose oils which contain additives for tractor braking systems.

New tractors that were loaded lightly during the run in period, the first 50 hours, always gave far more engine trouble than ones that went into hard work straight away.

I practise the same with my diesel cars and got 400,000 out of a diesel Sierra and over 300,000 out of a Mondeo.

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 6:21 pm

The oil i have put in it is 15/30 tractor oil. Ive also got an old 4 cylinder 35, that runs on straight 30 vintage tractor oil. I never used this for Two reasons, 1) I read the spec for Dexta was SAE 20 under normal UK temperatures 2) I thought it might be a bit thick for a motor thats just been rebuilt. With regards to the piston ring comment, the rebuild kit came from Agriline. As far as working the tractor is concerned, its used on a fruit farm for spraying and mowing duties and it wont be used now until the Spring. Saying that the sprayer is a hefty old thing that does tend to load the pto, its an old type "Victair" sprayer with 2 fans and a pump both pto driven.

Post by **Brian** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 6:44 pm

If you check the oils specs in the headings you will find that the recommended oil is HD 30W or HD 20/30W. If the 15/30W oil you are using is also for the rear axle of modern tractors it will have brake lubricants in it. These will cause bore glazing in your engine especially as the work on your sprayer and mower would not be classed as heavy work. This sort of work increases the problem.

It may be better to find someone with a dynamometer and get them to run her on that for five or six hours to really bed her in.

On the Wiki, there is a story about the Dexta owned by Gaymers at their Norfolk cider factory and orchard. It was used most of the time on a large mower and orchard sprayer between the acres of trees. We used to go to that at least twice a year to decoke it because the diesel did not work hard enough to burn it clean.

That is one of the reasons that both Ford and MF retained petrol tractors in that range.

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:22 pm

I take your point re the oil. I actually got my grades from the original manual. Would you agree that beings its only been run for a few hours it would be worth dropping the oil and changing it in favour of the 30 grade vintage tractor oil i mentioned that i use in the 35?

pottyperkins · Post by **pottyperkins** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:37 pm

I had similar trouble with a re-built engine together with poor starting. local engine reconditioners told me to change to running-in oil for the first 20- 30 hours, if i wasnt able to give it loads of work.
It did the trick and it now stars instantly and doesnt use any oil.
So when we rebuilt the super dexta engine, I fiilled it with running in oil from the start and its running in well

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:41 pm

pottyperkins wrote:Local engine reconditioners told me to change to running-in oil for the first 20- 30 hours, if I wasnt able to give it loads of work. It did the trick and it now stars instantly and doesnt use any oil.
So when we rebuilt the super dexta engine, I fiilled it with running in oil from the start and its running in well

What is running-in oil?
Where can you get it?

Thanks,

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:22 pm

When you changed to running in oil on your rebuilt engine how long had you had it running for and what oil had you put in it?

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:48 pm

I forgot to say, because the tractor had to be moved quickly the following was left out. On reassembly the thermostat housing was noted to be corroded to the extent that the 2 bolts holding the part of the housing that the top hose goes onto were seized solid and it appears there was no thermostat fitted. I have a new part on order. Could it be that the engine is not reaching its operating temperature and this is not helping the oil situation??

pottyperkins · Post by **pottyperkins** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:36 pm

Hi, i was recommended millers running in oil
http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_CLASSIC.htm (CLICK ON ENGINE OILS)
The engine was rebuilt and then did about 30 to 40 miles of light road work(not pulling any weight)
It was filled first time with 15/40 oil
Then drained it and filled with this oilI. I partially covered the radiator to help keep it upto a good operating temp
The lesson seems to be new oils are too good and old tractors just thrive on hard work.
This is what ive tried to do with the suoer dexta but its mainly used with a 3 ton roller and chain harrows and hay turning in summer which is not enough really
On a simmilar subject following the 2001 foot and mouth out break a local farmer was using a very nice low houred ford 3000 with a pto pressure washer for disenfecting for 8 hours a day everyday at 1200rpm. On the way home at night, when reved up there was a shower of black with oil from out of the exhaust,its never been the same since

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