Crankshaft pulley locking tab

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:45 pm

The Parts Lists shows a crankshaft pulley locking tab, item 12 below:

Is it necessary?

Anyone know where I can get one?

Many thanks,

dexta roadless · Post by **dexta roadless** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:56 pm

Never seen it, never needed it

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:56 pm

A supplimentary qustion:
To what torque should the crankshaft pulley nut be tightened to?
(I can't see any figure in the workshop manual).
Thanks.

Post by **Brian** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:22 pm

Tight!

(Don't ever remember seeing one quoted).

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:36 pm

My engine never had one on when i rebuilt it. I put Loctite on the thread and wound it up with an impact gun. I then put it in gear and blocked the back wheels and turned it a bit more with an extended bar. I wouldnt mind thinking that something like a Land Rover might use a washer and be readily available??

Kiwi Kev · Post by **Kiwi Kev** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:54 pm

Just make one, if you feel you need to have one.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:29 pm

As I don't have an impact gun to undo/do up the nut, I'm thinking of making a big spanner to bolt onto the front of the crankshaft pulley (as originally suggested by Swanndri):

Is the pulley strong enough for the task?I don't want to crack the pulley trying to undo the centre nut?

What size/thread are the 3 bolt holes in the pulley (I'm away from my tractor now)?

Thanks all for your advice,

GERRY · Post by **GERRY** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:54 pm

HI isuppose you have already tried to tap it useing a blunt cold chisel an hammer, ihave done this sucussfully afew times. they seem to come loose with aquick tap an then screw off quite easily, although the ones ihave done had no new paint on them

. Gerry

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:17 pm

I know its all more expense but have a look in the Argos book or Halfords etc for a 12v impact gun, used to be approx £25. They do work very well and i have used one for loads of jobs. They come with an adaptor so you can use croc clips direct off the battery. The sockets are of no good (Usually metric) so you will need a good impact socket with half inch drive. Once the nut is removed try tapping both sides of the pulley at once. Mine was easy it came off with a rubber mallet. I suppose you could apply heat as any damage would be restricted to the front seal which you will probably replace anyway? Ive had it before on a Fergy where i have located a socket and a long impact bar wedged against the ground,give the engine a slight crank on the starter and it comes off,not my preffered method though.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:33 pm

Thanks HB,

Is a 1/2" drive impact wrench man enough for the pulley nut? I thought 3/4" drive was needed, but I've not found any?

Also I will need impact sockets either 1.5/8" or 1.11/16" to fit the nut? Ordinary ones will shatter?

Does anyone know what 'Box Spanner Tool No T 6098' mentioned in the workshop manual is ?

Thanks again,

The Swanndri Guy · Post by **The Swanndri Guy** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 7:07 am

Ben, I would suggest to use 3/4" drive socket to undo the pulley bolt, possibly with the tool as I have suggested previously to bolt on to two or three of the threaded bolt holes on the pulley. Hiking bears method, to use a socket and a long impact bar wedged against the ground and to give the engine a slight crank on the starter ,(not his prefered method) has the "possiblity" of bending the crankshaft.

As for retightening the bolt as Brian has already said "Tight!".If the bolt is done up "tight"( as opposed to loose or excessivly tight) it should not come undone.TSG.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:56 am

The Swanndri Guy wrote:Ben, I would suggest to use 3/4" drive socket to undo the pulley bolt, possibly with the tool as I have suggested previously to bolt on to two or three of the threaded bolt holes on the pulley.TSG.

TSG,

Do you know what size/thread the 3 holes in the pulley are? They look like 3/8" dia and I'm guessing fine thread (UNF)? Can you (or anyone) confirm?

Are they specifically there for the purpose of locking the crankshaft, or maybe for pulling off the pulley?

Thanks,

hiking bear · Post by **hiking bear** » Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:11 pm

Bensdexta... Ive got loads of impact sockets on 1/2 inch drive and ive never snapped one yet. That electric impact gun will 99% undo that bolt, i highly recommend them. As a guide it will undo the wheelnuts on our 17 ton Renault truck, 34mm from memory. However you might be surprised though some are not that overtight and come off easy. If i was doing mine tommorow i would expect to use an impact socket on the end of decent bar,i would put it in gear with the handbrake on,make sure the stop is out and give it a turn and quite expect it to come off.

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:28 pm

Once you have flattened the locking tab try using the socket to ensure it is really flat as any small bend will cause problems.
The pictures below show what happened when the previous owner of my spare Dexta engine didn't get the slot in the pully correctly aligned with the key on the shaft.

So, has anyone in the UK got a pulley to spare please?
Regards
Jerry

Dunggatherer · Post by **Dunggatherer** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:51 am

Ben,although there is not much left of the thread in my pulley,i would say that indeed 3/8 would be the size.
Also the mentioned UNF Fine for which i tried a die does seem to engage at least some windings.

I can imagine these holes are meant for a special puller,for removal of the pulley,and also for putting on a second pulley,for extra options,airco perhaps?

Greetings from Holland.
Rob.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:04 am

Thanks Rob

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:37 am

hiking bear wrote:Bensdexta... Ive got loads of impact sockets on 1/2 inch drive and ive never snapped one yet. That electric impact gun will 99% undo that bolt, i highly recommend them. As a guide it will undo the wheelnuts on our 17 ton Renault truck, 34mm from memory.

I think the pulley nut needs a 1 11/16" or 1 5/8" socket, which equates to 42mm.

How do you tell if a socket is fit for an impact wrench or not? I've heard that non-impact sockets can explode - a safety hazard

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:53 am

Impact sockets tend to be black, heavy wall thickness and hexagonal rather than 12 sided.
Anybody got a spare pulley for me please?
Jerry

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:27 pm

I made a pulley spanner following suggestions above and it worked fine. Getting the pulley nut off took all of a minute

I can confirm that the three threaded holes in the pulley are 3/8" dia UNF thread.

However after removing the water pump and timing cover bolts I can't get the cover off. It has been sealed on with gasket sealer

I've tried tapping it with a piece of wood from behind through the fuel pump window and also gently tapping the cover with a screw driver.

Should I warm it up to soften the sealant?

How do I get it off!!??

marcusgs · Post by **marcusgs** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 10:41 am

Hi,

I think the best option would be to gently, and I mean gently tap a flat headed screwdriver between the covers and prize the top one off.
Please go gently though.

Regards,

Mark

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 3:29 pm

I would also suggest pushing an old feeler gauge strip or a stanley knife blade between the surfaces to try and cut through the gasket sealant. That way you are reducing the contact area when forcing the two pieces apart.
Jerry

Judge Sharpe · Post by **Judge Sharpe** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 7:42 pm

Over the years i have found that a flexable putty knife with a 1 or 1 1/2 inch blade works to seperate the parts. A little heat would not hurt to soften the sealing compuond. I would use a heat gun to avoid warping the part with too much heat.
I used to find theromstate housings glued on with gasket cement to save buying a ten cent gasket.
The three holes in the pulley are for te use of a pulley puller, which eases the pully off without breaking or bending it. It bolts to the three holes and has a large hex headed screw which is tightened against the crankshaft and as it is screwed down further pulls the pully off.
I have never had a problem taking the nut off by putting a properly sized socket on it and using a long breaker bar( 12-18 inches). If the engine is out of the tractor, use bolts in the fly wheel, or stick a large screwdriver in the fly wheel teeth to lock the crank shaft. Another option is a strap wrench around the pulley to hold it still while you pull on the breaker. The impact driver is great because you do not have to hold the crank shaft for it to work. In the old days we used am impact driver that you hit with a hammer and it transfered the impact to a sudden radial movement, breaking the nut loose.
Good luck. Any old hot rod mechanic should be able to help you.
Bill Brower

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 10:53 pm

Thanks to the good advice, I've got my timing cover off OK.
I tapped it from behind with a piece of wood through the fuel pump window (fuel pump is removed) which cracked the seal. Then I was able to work a stanley knife around the join.

Will definitely be using a proper gasket when I refit it - anything for an easier life!

All the best,

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Apr 17, 2010 10:32 am

I'm reassembling my timing case

The pulley has a shallow groove worn around it where the old seal has been rubbing. The groove is not sharp, just worn.

Should I get the pulley skimmed or will it be OK?

Thanks for your advice,

henk · Post by **henk** » Sat Apr 17, 2010 7:02 pm

The pulley on my major was the same. I have put a lot of grease in the seal.
It holds until now but I expects it will be worn sooner.
You could try a speedy sleeve.

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