BIG SMILE

This forum is about the Fordson Dexta, Super Dexta and Petrol Dexta.
naildriver
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BIG SMILE

Post by naildriver »

No one but you guys knows the satisfaction of hearing your first "rebuilt" motor fire up. My wife says I'm still smiling. But, I may have problems. She fired right up after about 20 seconds and I shut her down in 35sec because of no oil pressure. Tried her again and shut her down after 30 seconds again. Fired her up later for 10 seconds to prove to my wife that I did get her running. Should the oil pressure be instant or does it have to "prime" itself. It's been so long, over a year since I put the engine together and I suspect that my "prelube" is worthless now. I loosened the filter, since that's the first place that the oil pump sends oil and it was full. So it seems that it has to be moving oil??? What should I do? Go get a new oil gauge first or am I giving it enough time to build up. I'll do a search and see what I can find.

Dunggatherer
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Post by Dunggatherer »

If the oil pressure was ok before you tore her apart,i would suspect the oil pressure warning light switch.
30 seconds should be enough to fill the filter and build up pressure.
You could remove the switch to see if oil squirts out,mind you it'll be messy.
Or first take off the rocker cover.
You should see oil flowing there too,probably less messy.

Or borrow a pressure gauge that you know is good,and put that in place of the switch.

But i would take off the rocker cover first,least work,least messy,and a good indication.

naildriver
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Thanks for your response

Post by naildriver »

Thanks for your response, I took off the valve cover and there was oil around, probably there from when I filled it with oil 2 days ago. So I fired her up, almost immediately, and in 5sec I did not see oil being pumped to the top of lifters so I shut her down. Not having any experience in this kind of thing, I don't know how much run time I can afford. My SDexta is fitted with a pressure gauge. I did not rebuild the oil pump when I had it apart. It seems to me that I would have some oil pressure rather than none. Am I giving it enough time to pump up pressure?

Dunggatherer
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Post by Dunggatherer »

I think that by now you should have oil pressure.

What i would do now:pull the cut off knob and block it.
That way the engine will not start and as such not put a heavy load on bearings and stuff.
Then if it turns out you indeed have no oil flowing at least there will be no damage.
Then i would take out the injectors.
The fact that the stopknob is blocked in the off-position will make sure you won't squirt diesel all around.
Now as there's no compression,it will be easy for the startermotor to spin the engine (and oilpump) over faster than usual.
This will give you time to check stuff and give the oilpump some time to build up oilpressure.
Be careful,put a rag or so over the injectorholes.
Dieselremains and carbonbits will be launched from there with some 300 psi,enough to take out an eye...

naildriver
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Thanks for your response

Post by naildriver »

Sounds like a good plan. I won't have time to try this untill later today.Thanks for your help

Dunggatherer
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Post by Dunggatherer »

Naildriver,i gotta go too,social obligations...

Anyway,some thoughts to maybe help you narrow the search;

Did you before you mounted the new oilfilter put some oil in it,or did the pump fill the filter all by itself?
Then at least we can assume it is pumping,unless now the pressure relieve valve is sticky,in a slightly open position.

Did you have the block cleaned before assembly?
The reason for this question is that if you didn't and changed oil some carbondeposit may have come loose and hide itself in an oilpassage.New oils contain detergents,but the oil from the 60's didn't.

Good luck!
Rob.

naildriver
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Me again

Post by naildriver »

No, I did not put oil in filter.So I must assume that it is pumping to some degree.I wanted to but the through bolt design of the old filter system doesn't make this possible?? Machine shop cleaned block and I think I remember blowing out oil passage ways with air pressure just to double ck.Off to family reunion, back later to try your advice about removing injectors.

john.n
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Post by john.n »

pull the stop cord out and crank in 10-15 second bursts it will take a while. i totally cleaned out the oil system on mine recently because i had to fit an oil pressure switch. i was on the verge of giving up then the light went out. its not just the filter i has to fill the oil gallery will have to fill also.

hope this helps

russelm
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Post by russelm »

A trick I have used in the past is to use an oil can to pump oil into the system (its amazing how much pressure you can get!).

On the dexta, I would do this via the oil feed connection for the rocker assemblies.

naildriver
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Post by naildriver »

Pulled injectors and spun it for 3 15second burst and no oil on top of lifters. I think I'll try the oil can idea. Is this "can" the kind that is shaped like half a ball with a "straw" sticking out and you pump the flat side of the can???

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Post by TOH »

naildriver wrote:Is this "can" the kind that is shaped like half a ball with a "straw" sticking out and you pump the flat side of the can???
I think he meant something like this -> http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/lib ... 710409.jpg

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Post by russelm »

Indeed it is the latter.

Having not completed work on my dexta donk yet (but having worked on many other power plants from 1 litre upto 256 litre), is this one of the oil pumps that responds well to packing with petroleum jelly (as per the likes of Rover/Buick v8's)

naildriver
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Bigger SMILE

Post by naildriver »

:D :D :D :lol: Oil pressure gauge turned out to be bad. Installed a new one. Now I have around 40. I got me one of those "cans" and pumped oil in outlet near starter and on top of head. I think it would have pumped up to the top but this made it happen sooner. Thanks guys for the good advice.Still Smiling

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Post by Tubal Cain »

The gear type oil pumps fitted to these engines when new are assembled with very tight clearances and after many years service wear occurs which affects the efficiency of the pump.

After an engine rebuild it is necessary on occasions to prime the oil pump in order for it gain suction and build up pressure. This can be done by removing the oil pressure switch and pumping or pouring oil into the gallery. Filling the oil filter housing with oil prior to start up after an overhaul also helps the oil pressure to build up quickly.

Gerald

naildriver
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oil pressure

Post by naildriver »

Been working on things like the wiring and grinding/painting more parts before attaching to tractor. With injectors out, I had around 40 lbs oil pressure but with all back together, I started her up tonight to see if my wiring was correct, She showed about 60lbs and I shut her down in 5sec. I have heard that 40 is what I need. Should I be concerned about 60. Will that change after it warms up for the first time? It probably only has a total of 100sec run time . I plan on letting it warm up tomorrow and maybe a couple of laps around the field. Still have not checked to see if my hydraulic rebuild was successful.
Last edited by naildriver on Fri May 28, 2010 7:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

pjjms
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Post by pjjms »

Mine will drop 20 PSI from hot to cold. Lets know what you get with a hot engine.

Brian
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Post by Brian »

If you have oil pressure it will be OK. You will find it will drop when in use possibly as low as 20psi. The switch is normally set to come on around 8psi so you have a fair range.

Do not let her idle for any length of time, put her straight into work at around 1500 rpm and work her without letting her pull down too much. Also do not over rev her. She will pay you back with another 40 or 50 years of trouble free operating.

If you let her idle and put her into light work, you will be stripping the engine within 5 years.
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Post by russelm »

It will drop as the oil warms and thins.

As an example, my other diesel monster sits at 60psi oil pressure on startup and drops to 28psi once hot.

naildriver
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still smiling

Post by naildriver »

The oil pressure after letting her warm up stayed around 50. Also, temperature held to 180. Drove her around about 10 minutes. Now to finish her so I can put her to good use. Priced new tires today, old ones aren't any good. Next,I need floor boards,fenders, 1 brake drum and brake shoes. Where is the best place to order this stuff in the US? All I am familiar with is yesterday's tractors. Any other recommendations? Thanks guys for all your help.

naildriver
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RPM's

Post by naildriver »

Hello Brian, I currently don't have a tach, Was missing when I got her.Does it seem unrealistic not to get one or do you think this is important? You named one of your's "Dotty", I'm thinking maybe "Dolly" for mine. Ha Ha Thanks for all your help.

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Post by Brian »

Tach is not essential, in fact it was an extra on the early tractors, but it is very nice to have especialy if you are doing PTO work. When you get used to her you will be able to judge faitly accurately.

Another way to check PTO revs is to put her on a baler where the ram strokes at 540 rpm are known. (say 80 strokes per minute) then run them up and count the strokes. We used to do this in the early days for tractors without tachs.
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naildriver
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Is it possible

Post by naildriver »

[quote="Brian"]Tach is not essential, in fact it was an extra on the early tractors, but it is very nice to have especialy if you are doing PTO work. When you get used to her you will be able to judge faitly accurately.

Another way to check PTO revs is to put her on a baler where the ram strokes at 540 rpm are known. (say 80 strokes per minute) then run them up and count the strokes. We used to do this in the early days for tractors without tachs.[/quote----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I don't have access to a baler and Since it's important to bushog with enough RPM's, Later when I have time, I might ask one of you guys to Bushog in 2nd gear running the proper RPM's and tell me your speed. Assuming we are geared the same, I could match my gear/speed and I should have a good reference of what the proper RPM's needed for bushogging should be.This should work????

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Post by pjjms »

My petrol Dexta has the speed in the first 4 gears marked on the tacho. PTO speed for the petrol is 1800rpm which is marked at just over 2mph. Maybe your question could be answered with a picture of a diesel tacho if anybody has one? I imagine it will be hard to measure 2mph though.

I also have a petrol Nuffield which does not have a tacho. I borrowed a hand held tacho (contact type) from a local garage/small engine shop and set the throttle stop while measureing the speed on the PTO shaft.

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Post by Bensdexta »

pjjms wrote:My petrol Dexta has the speed in the first 4 gears marked on the tacho. PTO speed for the petrol is 1800rpm which is marked at just over 2mph. Maybe your question could be answered with a picture of a diesel tacho if anybody has one? I imagine it will be hard to measure 2mph though.
My original diesel tacho:
Image

This is on a Dec 1961 standard Dexta ser no 09A313...
Last edited by Bensdexta on Thu Jun 03, 2010 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bensdexta - 1961 working for a living!

naildriver
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Thanks for the pics

Post by naildriver »

Interesting, Wonder if anyone could actually read that while moving? So by this tach, 1800RPM's are needed for bush-hogging???? Is that what's recommened for my S Dexta?? Would it be a safe guess to give it a little more than 3/4 throttle??? I'm getting way ahead of myself here, Got lots more work to do on her before I began bush-hogging, Oh well, it's all interesting. Thanks for all the responses. I promise some pics when I'm done.

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