New Engine

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:54 pm

Will this fit my 1960 standard Dexta and is it a reasonable price?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Perkins-A3-152-Sh ... 51862301db

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:04 pm

HI
The EBay ad says its for a Dexta and it's a A3.153 engine with rope seals.
There are some differences between a MF35 block and a Dexta block.
The MF 35 had its fuel pump driven on the RHS by an extra lobe on the Camshaft so expect to find an aperture with 4 fixing holes to take the pump. This needs to be blanked off and sealed.
Also the MF35 block has a drive adapter for its Tachometer at the rear of the Camshaft - again blanked off and sealed.
Apart from that I don't know of any other differences but I'm sure theres somebody out there who does.
BTW Agriline do the same block for about £700!
Regards
Jerry
Camerton
Bath

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:11 pm

Cheers Jerry,

That went a bit over my head, I will only be buying it, I'll have to find a man to fit it. I still have to determine whats wrong with mine.

I had a feeling it would be more expensive than Agriline.

Euge

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:14 pm

I'll send a couple of pics soon
Jerry

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:20 pm

Cheers Jerry your a star.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:53 pm

Don't panic! Before buying another engine, I would find out exactly what is wrong with yours. It may not be as bad as you fear. A complete engine rebuild shouldn't cost hugely over £1000 and you're unlikely to need that. Also it's good to keep your tractor original, with it's original engine.
Get a frindly member of your local tractor club to take a look & advise.
All the best,

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:22 am

Cheers Ben, your right of course.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:32 am

How are the oil and water levels?

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:10 am

I'll just have a coffee and go and check.

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:57 am

The oil is at the last L of full, but the water was empty I guess, as I filled it up it started to leak out, I can't see exactly where it is coming from but it appears to be somewhere in the centre of the engine just behind the radiator not under the engine but in front.

When I turned her over yesterday I could hear water being expelled from somewhere (I think).

I don't suppose there is anyone near me, half way between Hay and Kington (Herefordshire) who could pop over and have a look!!

Gavin · Post by **Gavin** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:38 am

That sounds like water pump, a hose or thermostat housing in that area.
I'm about an hour away from you in Pontypool, not sure if anyone else is closer.
Gavin

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:41 am

Something went badly wrong to stop the engine, it went from completely out of control revving wildly, smoke everywhere to stopped. Now it leaks water, what happened to stop it?

Gavin · Post by **Gavin** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:55 am

There are many reasons why it may have stopped if it was over revving. Does it turn over by hand without locking up?

YorkshireDextaMan · Post by **YorkshireDextaMan** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:56 am

I would go along with what Ben says on this. upto a point that is, because if your engine has issues, like for example cracked block (which can be repaired but still costs), damaged parts like crank and con-rods, , You really cant tell untill it's dismantled.
Engineer shops aint cheap, and everything will have 17.5% added.
Weigh it all up and a replacement could look a better option, but i would say if you go for new , shop around an ask for a big Discount, They wont sell that many and they put it on to take it off, if you get what i mean. Jim

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:03 pm

I have a man (good friend owns an engineer factory) coming round this evening to weigh it up. I'll keep updating

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:42 pm

I have just dipped the oil again and it is showing well above full which indicates that it is fullish with water, this doesn't sound good even to me. What do those who know think?

Regards

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:35 pm

woodseaves wrote:I have just dipped the oil again and it is showing well above full which indicates that it is fullish with water, this doesn't sound good even to me. What do those who know think?

Drain the engine and catch what comes out. Any water will be at the bottom because oil floats. Also see if there's any metal bits in there.

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:14 pm

Might take some time- I'm having trouble with the plug in the sump (as usual)

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:08 pm

woodseaves wrote:Might take some time- I'm having trouble with the plug in the sump (as usual)

If you can't shift the plug, drop the strainer - gently so as not to get soaked

woodseaves · Post by **woodseaves** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:55 pm

Ben, Is that the round thing with a load of bolts next to the plug?

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:20 pm

woodseaves wrote:Ben, Is that the round thing with a load of bolts next to the plug?

Yes, that's it. It's described in the Workshop Manual. Should be removed and cleaned when you change the oil.

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:07 pm

Hi
Here's a picture of my Agriline block taken rear right showing fuel pump mounting holes and aperture on the side and the external tacho drive at the rear (which I have plugged with a core plug).

Regard
Jerry
Camerton
Bath

Lesfen · Post by **Lesfen** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:54 am

Jerry,

Is it an actual Perkins block or a copy?
Does it have a serial number or other casting numbers?
Curious!
Thanks,
Les

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 9:24 am

Hi Les
I purchased it from Agriline.
There is no serial No and no cast names.
There appears to be two small holes on the other side near the top which may be holes for ID plate rivets but thats all.
The casting seems to be well cast and finished with the cylinder liners honed and all threads tapped OK.
The real test will be when I get it installed and running.
I have acquired a T adapter so I can fit the oil presssure switch and a gauge to monitor the oil pressure on first ever start and early running.
Regards
Jerry
Camerton
Bath

Gavin · Post by **Gavin** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 2:05 pm

woodseaves wrote:I have a man (good friend owns an engineer factory) coming round this evening to weigh it up. I'll keep updating

Any news on the issues with your engine yet?