Cracked block

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:01 pm

So, been inspecting the block today and cleaning the old paint off and I have a crack in the usual spot (between the core plugs on the injector pump side).

So whats the view, problem or not.

I would like to keep this engine as every major component is original (or the at the least the dates are very close!) so, is it a case of grind it out a bit and fill with JB weld or other similar liquid metal?

I suspect its not actualy leaking as the whole area was covered in the original blue paint and a further coat of red (it was painted red about 20 years ago) and was not visable until the paint was removed and I would expect if it was leaking then it would have lifted the paint.

The crack does not extend into the raised areas around the core plugs.

So, your thoughts people?

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 1:31 am

Sorry to hear that - what we all dread. Hopefully you can get by with a minimal repair as it doesn't seem to be leaking.

As a backstop it may be worth consulting one of the specialist repair Co's, eg http://www.castironweldingrepairs.co.uk ... epairs.php , Metalock or http://www.stitchweld.co.uk/ . I've no experience of any of them.

Let us know how you get on

Aussie Frank · Post by **Aussie Frank** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 3:02 pm

Hi. Just my 2 cents worth,

If you are not planning on spending a lot of money on the engine, my advice is leave well enough alone. If the original blue paint has not lifted then it is not leaking. By all means wire brush the area and paint it but don't grind it. This would be a great case to coat the crack with one of the new epoxy based paints to seal it. It is obviously not pouring water out now otherwise you would have noticed it earlier.

On the other hand, if you are planning a major rebuild, I would look for another block. Crack repairs tend to be very expensive, far more expensive than a new block. By all means keep the old block if you want the option of returning your tractor to original, you never know what new technology might appear in the future.

Regards, Frank.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 3:24 pm

I don't know if your tractor already has a V5, but if not, changing the block might make it harder to get an 'age related' reg. My old 'buff log book' quotes the engine # as the 'Chassis, frame or car number', and makes no ref the the clutch flange #. Apparently this was commonly done by the County licencing authorities at the time.

So if you fit a block with an engine# clearly from a different date from your tractor# (ie on the clutch flange), there might be probs getting an age releated #. Maybe best to stick with the old block till you have the V5.

john.n · Post by **john.n** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 5:39 pm

might sound daft but are you sure its a crack? I thought I had 2 cracks on my block but turned out that one lower down was just a mark from casting, it arced over the numbers and codes on the side of the bolck. I also found an old repair between the core plugs was leaking, i ground it down a bit to clean it up and used epoxy putty, worked very well for me. stopped the leak and smoothed over the old repair. you cant tell unless you know its there.

Regards,

John

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:03 am

Thanks all

Yes, two definate cracks.

I have been reading and researching and I am going to opt for the JB weld tye of approach using metal loaded epoxy as a first go.

I have already invested in the block (note to others, get ALL the paint off first).

I will post some pics and report on the approach.

Mark

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:08 pm

Ok, been looking at this further, I quite fancy trying metal stitching on this but, cant find anywhere that selss the kits!

The process looks simple enough and its not like the area is highly stressed.

So, anybody found a source for the metal stitching kits?

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:41 pm

russelm wrote:So, anybody found a source for the metal stitching kits?

http://www.dukerswell.com/index.shtml
- I have no experience of them. Also you could ask your local engine shop or a metal stitching co themselves.

See also http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/ubb/F ... 00893.html. Might be worth a word with Tubal Cain.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:27 pm

Just emailed these guys to see who thier local distributor is:

http://www.locknstitch.com/Products.htm

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:35 pm

This is the technique

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4Z ... re=related

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 11:40 pm

Wow! I'll be interested to see how you get on

dexta09b · Post by **dexta09b** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 4:21 pm

hi mark i repaired my dexta block using lock and stitch products. the agents for lock and stitch in the uk are JIM STOKES WORKSHOP LTD hampshire www.jswl.co.uk phone 012392233933. they will send you a catalouge, a price list and a dvd showing you the metal stitching process. best of luck ollie.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 8:33 pm

dexta09b wrote:hi mark i repaired my dexta block using lock and stitch products. the agents for lock and stitch in the uk are JIM STOKES WORKSHOP LTD hampshire http://www.jswl.co.uk phone 012392233933. they will send you a catalouge, a price list and a dvd showing you the metal stitching process. best of luck ollie.

Excellent, thanks for that, how did you find it to do (as it does not look to bad)

dexta09b · Post by **dexta09b** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:31 pm

not to bad a job but does require a certain level of skill. i used a battery drill to drill and tap the holes, you need to be very carefull at this because taps are expensive. it is also a slow process, for each pin you have to drill a hole then tap that hole then inert the pin, then grind down the remaining part of the head of the pin level with the existing metal. Its an excellent job when finished. hope this helps.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:28 pm

Thanks, I have been contacted by the Norwegian distributors so will keep everybody posted on what I hear.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:05 pm

350 euros for the bits

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:56 am

Ok, the plan is.

Stress releave the cracks and then chase them out with a dremel, clean well and use chemical metal to seal them.

Re-build the engine.

If this does not work then I will go down the large expense route and carry out an insitue repair using the lock-n-stitch technique.

Anyway, the cranks back in!

Has anybody else had trouble with the thrust bearings, the new ones I received hahe the tabs in the wrong place!

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 11:41 am

russelm wrote:Ok, the plan is. Stress releave the cracks and then chase them out with a dremel, clean well and use chemical metal to seal them.

How will you stress relieve them - by drilling a wee hole in the ends? Please take a couple of photos as you go.
Good luck

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 3:38 pm

Bensdexta wrote:
russelm wrote:Ok, the plan is. Stress releave the cracks and then chase them out with a dremel, clean well and use chemical metal to seal them.
How will you stress relieve them - by drilling a wee hole in the ends? Please take a couple of photos as you go.
Good luck

Yes, holes drilled in the ends (already done!)

EddieJ · Post by **EddieJ** » Fri Mar 11, 2011 5:16 am

russelm wrote: Has anybody else had trouble with the thrust bearings, the new ones I received have the tabs in the wrong place!

Hi Russel,
The thrust washer thing has come up before, for some more info check out this thread:
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... f=3&t=1756

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:29 am

Thanks, that explains it as mine is an early 1959 unit.

At the moment I have new thrust washer section in the block half and the originals in the cap (as it stops them rotating). Not ideal though as effectively one half is loose and only half is acting as a thrust surface.

Looks like I might have to machine the main cap tomorrow then!

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 3:58 pm

Well, thats the main cap done after a short period on the miller, easy and quick, 3/8 milling bit and they fit nice and snugly now.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 10:17 pm

Here's the machined main bearing cap to take the later thrust bearings

And the progress so far.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:50 am

Some more progress.

Pistons in

And the head offered up (but not fitted) as its new and its from Agrline so it needed checking!

Tubal Cain · Post by **Tubal Cain** » Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:27 pm

russelm

I am intrigued by the first photograph in your last post showing the oil pump and associated pipework. Which is different to the setup on my 1959 and 1960 Dextas and to the replacement pump which I have aquired in the last few years, where the connections are on the side of the pump and not the top.

I assume that it is a replacement pump, it looks a very professional job using stud coupling elbows with the original Fordson pipework, was it already fitted or have you fitted it?

As there have been references on this site of the need to alter the pipework when fitting some replacement oil pumps I thought that it may help if a scource for these fittings was identified. I measured the pipework and screwed fittings from my engine and was unable to identify the threads, which are 0.866" od. (22mm) with 14 tpi Whitworth form the, od. of the pipe is 0.641". I could find no reference to such a thread in any of my reference books, so must assume it is a Fordson/Perkins special!

Regards

Gerald

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