Brake Drum Won't Come OFF

[WayneB]

Gents,
Dexta 59 that is becoming a 62... working on brakes now.

My Left Brake DRUM, (1st one I started with) will not come off. BTW: I have done this job several times before on other tractors.
Removed 2 drum retainer screws, backed off on adjuster, used air to blow out crud (very little), applied penetrant, used heat, and it still will not come off.
Repeat all this exhaustively.

But as I was doing this, I noticed the shaft going thru the backing plate that turns the cam has much wear, and pivoted sideways, as hole is very elongated.

Looking at Fig 2 off from my book (same as Stephan's site), shaft-22, thru baking plate-3 does not have a bronze replaceable bushing for backing plate.

If hole is worn, is there any choice other than replacing backing plate?

I have a parts tractor, that will come apart (used to be my running tractor rear end). Can I take backing plate assembly, plus shaft assembly-22-28 and swap it out?

Wayne

[WayneB]

OK, So if I replace one or more backing plates, I have to check or re-shim the axle shafts.
Bottom line. Normally left axle is used for 0.004 - 0.012" (0.10-.030mm) end float measurement. Shim both sides equally 0.060" (1.5mm). Install a 3/8-16" UNC bolt with lock nut in the brake drum retainer screws until it just touches the retainer. Use a bar to wedge between axle flange and backing plate. Pull axle shaft, rotate shaft reseat and remeasure. Shim till gaps is acheieved.

I have not done this procedure before, so color me stupid if I have a question that seems basic. First, I am a little amis on why only one side, unless the two axle shaft meet in the differential and the shims wedge the axles apart. Or is the bearing in its seat, measuring on each side independently, and the mention of one side in the book like you are only doing one side? HOLD ON! read the cut and paste below and it says the axle shafts meet in the middle. I don't know what color stupid is today, but I am that color, with the only saving grace, I researched the answer, and left the question in the posting only to show what stupid looks like for an example.

And unless someone can provide me a PN: for backing plate cam rod HOLE bushing, I must either get new backing plates or use my '59 plates. Since I am using new axles shafts to backing plate this measurement and shimming is a necessity regardless.
So rebuild both sides assemble right and measure left.

FORDSON DEXTA BRAKING SYSTEM SECTION 1
Jan. 1958 Page 4

TO RENEW THE BRAKE BACK PLATE
To renew a brake back plate it is necessary to remove the axle shaft and bearing retainer from the axle housing and the procedure for carrying out this work is described fully in the Rear axle section under the heading “To Remove an Axle Shaft”. In addition to the operations listed, the brake shoes must be removed as detailed under”Brake Overhaul”. It will be noted that a number of steel shims are fitted between the brake back plate and the axle housing at both sides of the tractor to provide an adjustment for axle shaft end float. The two axle shafts being in direct contact at the centre of the differential, the end float of both shafts can be adjusted simultaneously by altering the shim thickness at either side of the axle. If a new back plate is fitted then, due to possible slight differences in the thickness of the old and the new back plates, the end float on the shafts may be altered and this should therefore be checked and readjusted if necessary.
Refer to the Rear Axle

The rear axle procedure to measure is 2 1/2 pages, so won't copy & paste.

Bottlom line: On 52-56 year old tractors, assuming correct shimming for end-float is a fairy tale that does not alway end in the Dexta lived happily everafter....

[WayneB]

I thought about it. If that brake drum won't come off, then the axle shafts cannot be taken out of the backing plate.

[dexta roadless]

first of all-- The holes in the backing plate is ment to be too big for the shaft. That is because the brake shoes is "floating" at that end. This will give you "leading shoes" in both directions. Only the springs holds the shoes sentered whilst brakes not applied. I suggest you make another effort to get the drum off and just overhaul the brakes.

[WayneB]

I will compare it to my other Dextas, AGAIN, this shaft was moving from center 3/8" - 7/16"

I compared it to my other tractor in the shop (that I swapped rear ends) and it had very little movement, almost none

as for drum removal...

If all else fails, I will drill a hole in the backing plate, top and bottom and use a screwdriver to compress the shoes to get the drums off.

[Jerry Coles]

Hi Wayne
I guess that the drums are rusted/stuck to the hub. Try some light persuasion with a soft hammer on the drum between the studs to try and separate. A bit of heat may make the drum expand slightly on the hub. You don't say if you have any outward movement at all on the drum. If it starts to move then it is probably fouling the edges of the shoes.
IMHO
Jerry

[WayneB]

no let me be clear, I can turn the drums freely, the lip is so deep, I cannot get the shoes to drop out of it. The damage is not done due to sitting and rusting, it is from WEAR. I would expect the pads to be down to the rivets or gone. I expect to find drums worn beyond turning on the lathe.

POST 1"...applied penetrant, used heat, and it still will not come off. Repeat all this exhaustively..." already done.

Given the backing plates are worn, given the drums are obviously worn, I am not optimistic that I can lightly continue beating them, oops tapping them with a hammer, which I did til conclusion that will not work. What I don't use on this parts tractor will go to scrap anyway...

I have extra parts on my old tractor rear end, which was rebuilt and had good brakes. Pads will need replaced from bad seals. Parts on hand.

I am keeping the engine and the Tin,
Will rebuild engine, steering gearbox, topcover for spares.
keeping tires and rims and jack-shaft.
Will take the hardware nuts & bolts and save some.

the tranny and the rear end go to scrap along with the backing plates and drum if bad.

i bought this parts tractor out of the mouth of the scrap crusher, and there it will return.

here is the bottom line. I have this tractor in my shop, it came in a 59 Dexta with live PTO, with a bad transmission. It will go out a 62 super dexta, with live PTO, diff lock, and with a near new transmission, rebuilt engine, new clutch, rebuilt steering gearbox, new fuel lines, new starter, wired for alternator, it will have a ROPPS, be wired for lights and flashers, everything will be working and with new paint. All this for my wife, who calls this her tractor. I want nothing more than a working tractor and the same thing most husbands want from their wives.

I have two more super dextas to bring in and rebuild, and the one I use most will come in , clean up and painted.

No more Dextas. Sorry, this transmission burned me. I will keep parts only for Super Dextas. I will have a new set of brake pads, axle and bearing seals, PTO seal, filters, belts and so on

i will be selling all the spares I do not need, likely bring in more Super Dextas fix and sell them. I have moved a few already.
my goal is to have a new paint job and a ribbon on the steering wheel for the wife by Christmas.

[WayneB]

UPDATE:
Finally got the left drum off. Yes, I had the adjuster backed all the way off, but the anchor pins were adjusted all the way in to make up for the very worn backing plate. I had the anchors loose, but they would not move. The drum is in excellent condtion.

No way of knowing the history, but the shoes are brand new, never used, and the hardware in very good near new condtion. The axle bearings were lubed with grease and it wasn't washed out with fluid.
Regardless, I am replacing the bearing and seals and the backing plate assembly.

I have one stud broke off in the axle bearing retainer. Was like that when I took it apart. Will drill and remove.

Making progress.

Wayne

[MichaelOz]

As a footnote, I had the same problem getting the brake drum off.

I had a car-sized hub puller. This was too small for the diameter of the Fordson drum, so I made extensions to double the length the central links. Lots of hammering on the drum edge and it came off.