Super Dexta restoration pictures

[ianpdexta]

I have made several separate posts regarding my Super Dexta but now I think I will put any further pictures in this thread and add them as I go. Time has prevented me from posting until now so some of these pictures were taken some months back.

First the nose cone, I decided to get all the tin work shot blasted and primered before repairing the holes, although some primer was inevitably burnt off when welding, it worked out quite well.
Splits and a very fragile lower edge.


Cut off and a new piece cutout with tin snips then welded in.


Shaping the last bit.


The side cheeks were peppered with holes, from pictures I've seen it looks like a common problem on Super Dextas
I filled these with plastic padding, it would have been too much work for me to try to reproduce the metal work.




Next the wings, the left was much worse than the RH side. there was nothing else to do but cut the bad metal out.




Then make a patch for the panel.


Then build up the box section, I couldn't fold the whole thing so I did each side separately with two Z sections, they
overlapped on the inside face giving a double thickness for part of it.




The Left wing only needed small pieces, and some filler on the face side.


I'll add more pictures in due course.

Regards

Ian

[Bensdexta]

Great work.
Look forward to more pics.

[ianpdexta]

I am confused!

I have just noticed that my Radiator cap doesn't look right, it has no pressure relief spring, I thought maybe its an oil filler cap but then it says "Turn down Tight AC Remove slowly" on the top?



Regards

Ian

[Bensdexta]

May be it's an unpressurised cap.

See this thread:
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... f=3&t=3563

I am using a new old stock AC RC-5 4lb pessure cap.

[ianpdexta]

http://www.agrilineproducts.com/Catalog ... ford-dexta
Product Code:5481

This is listed under Dexta but not Super Dexta, is the super different?

I would be willing to have a go at modifying it if the difference was small.

Regards

Ian

[Bensdexta]

The Agriline cap will probably work.

BUT I got me the real McCoy, a new old stock AC RC-5 on ebay, in USA, a 4lb cap. They come up quite often and aren't expensive. And they are the real original caps, good quality too. eg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-AC-Radiator ... 2146805900

Super and Standard Dexta caps are the same, and same as Major cap too.

I did a study of rad caps a year or two back, see here:
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... 63&p=26320

[ianpdexta]

Hello Ben

Thanks for the prompt reply, but I think my previous cap photo has misled you, it is the radiator cowl I'm not sure about whether the Dexta and Super Dexta are the same.

On the plus side I like the link to the AC cap as well, I will order one now.

many thanks and regards

Ian

[pat777]

Hi Ian

I have a standard Dexta and I ordered the fan cowl that you referred to. Unfortunately I had to send it back as my Dexta is fitted with a non standard fan, that would not fit within the confines of the cowl.

Just to let you know that the fan cowl is made of fiberglass. I came across this other thread, which seems to suggest that the cowl on the Dexta and the Super Dexta are different, but I cannot tell you that for certain.

http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... hp?p=17211

I do know that the radiator on the Super Dexta is taller than the standard Dexta.

Good job on the welding of the nose cone etc. I'll send mine over to you, it could do with a few patches. Do you know what thickness steel you are using for the patches?

Good luck

Pat

[ianpdexta]

The sheet steel was around 20g but I can't be sure, I know it was thinner than 16g which is much the same as 1.6mm and 1/16".

I have done more work, just haven't got round to posting the pictures.

Regards
Ian

[ianpdexta]

Here some more pictures of the restoration work. Electrical section.

Poor starter cable.



Dynamo need new field windings and armature, also fitted new bearings clean up and painted.


Field connections, one wire to the case, one to the terminal


Front bearing housing


Pushing bearing down against the springy O ring

Final seating the circlip

[ianpdexta]

More pics, missed one out then pressed Submit instead of Preview! Why does photo bucket continuously move the pictures around, "newest first" doesn't work for me.

Pushing bearing down with bench drill and an old clutch aligning tool, before circlip goes in


Clean up parts


New wires back into regulator


Regards

Ian

[ianpdexta]

I have tried to start the Super Dexta today without success, the had been removed just to clean the exterior and paint it and the area of the block behind it. It was working before removal. It was refitted some time back and I believe it is correctly timed. I have bled it thoroughly twice with fuel gushing at the bleed nipples and nippled up during the lift pump stroke.

The problem at present is the injection pump, when cranking I get spurts of fuel from the No3 outlet fitting but 1 and 2 remain dry, and this after a considerable amount of cranking. I removed the injectors to take the much of the load off the starter and battery.

On reading the manual I decided to change the oil on the injection pump, some clean oil came out and then I filled it to the level plug.

At one point I fitted the number 3 injector and connected it, there was a small amount of white vapour from the exhaust manifold but not as much as I would expect, in videos of people trying to start diesel engines the vapour cloud is much more noticeable.

Next step I took the inspection cover off the side of the pump see picture, I saw what I took to be the rack, when I tried to move it left and right with a finger it wouldn't move, I gently levered it with a screwdriver and it did move but seemed quite stiff. I would have expected it to be spring loaded in one direction and the governor move it the other way.?? Anyway having moved it fully to the left I did more cranking to see if the amount of white vapour would change, it seemed much the same.

Has anyone any ideas?

I haven't taken the pump to pieces and the ports were all covered when it was off the tractor. I did remove the two Allen screws and the stop cable bracket but I don't believe the knurled wheels were rotated.

Behind the inspection cover


1 and 2 both dry.


Any help on this will be much appreciated as I stumped at the moment.

Regards

Ian

[ianpdexta]

I have found these two pieces in a box of bits, they have blue paint so I'm sure they have come from the Dexta, the trouble is I cannot remember where!

Where do they fit? please.



Regards

Ian

[ianpdexta]

As per previous posts and questions about whether the Super Dexta radiator cowl is the same as the Dexta and petrol Dexta, I couldn't get an original from a breakers yard and an internet search led me to

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172354181134? ... EBIDX%3AIT

The Super Dexta is different and GRPARTS99 on ebay offer the correct type for the super Dexta, I believe he does several other types as well. So I ordered one, it came very quickly an looks the part, the material is rigid enough and once painted blue would be hard to distinguish from the steel one.

Here are some picture of It being fitted PS the rad has been re-cored and sprayed.


I also had to make the side brackets from scratch as these were missing.


The cowl fitted pretty well, I had to re-drill the flange holes a bit bigger but that was no problem, also the mounting flange was a bit narrow at the bottom but a good width at the top so the bottom holes were slotted and washers used to cover. I know that some people complain bitterly if after market parts don't fit, in this case I am still very happy as a part has been made available to me that I could get any other way or make my self, so I will point out to the supplier that the flange came out a bit narrow, but I will not give bad feedback as the mod is minimal and it was very little trouble to work around.

I would recommend anyone to use them.


The flange near the bottom of the rad.


What I also found was that the front trunion must have come into contact with something solid in the past as it was not level, so the radiator wasn't standing straight, a long crow bar and a big hammer enabled me to adjust it back, now the rad stands up and the fan runs central in the new cowl (maybe the old cowl was discarded because of the crash and resulting misalignment)

All in all I'm happy with the result.

Regards

Ian