Bought a Super Dexta, some technical questions

[buckwheat]

I recently purchased a Super Dexta and am in the process of running it through the shop as time allows. It will be used for moving stuff around the yard, tedding hay, and maybe running an auger if it has enough ponies.

I've changed the engine oil + filter, fuel filter, air filter oil, gear oil, fuel pump oil, and rear end oil so far. On the to do list are; set the valve lash, change the hydraulic filter, clean the oil pickup, un-seize the hydraulic selector knob, add a hydraulic outlet, and update to a modern style manifold heater. After I complete this list I feel comfortable putting it to work. Would you agree? Or am I missing anything? There are other minor issues that will be fixed as time allows.

So for my technical questions:

How much oil should reach the rockers? When I remove the oil filler cap on the valve cover I can not see any oil flowing. I do see evidence of oil and small puddles, but nothing flowing, not at any RPM. I fitted an oil pressure gauge today and it reads 58psi at idle cold with fresh 15w40. That seems a tad on the high side. Perhaps its just the slightly thicker oil, or perhaps something is clogged and no oil is reaching the rockers? The engine quieted down considerably after an oil change. That's somewhat normal, but I can't help but wonder if its because the rockers finally got lots of oil. I can see the oil pressure drop by 20 psi on a regular interval. It seems it drops about 5x a second at idle (once every camshaft revolution) so maybe the rockers just receive a squirt of oil every cam revolution? Or is there a continuous sprayer? I plan to set the valve lash sometime soon, and that will give me an opportunity to run the engine without the valve cover to get a good look at the oiling system. Hopefully someone can tell me what to look for.

I need a single acting hydraulic outlet to fold the hay tedder and raise the auger. Simple enough to add. What's stopping me from using regular hydraulic oil (hy-guard or similar) in the rear end? I do not want to mix hydraulic oils between tractors as there will be cross contamination when swapping implements between tractors. Also, I have hyguard in bulk. I have other pieces of equipment that recommend the use of either 15w40 or hyguard in the hydraulic system, so I feel the change from the specified 20/30 to hy-guard isn't completely unreasonable. Is there any problem using the thinner hydraulic oil in an older tractor like this? Is anyone doing it? The lift is currently working well. I tried moving my snowblower and was able to pick it successfully. If the blower was 50 pounds heavier it would have just raised the front wheels of the tractor.

The drain plug on the Simms fuel pump is stripped. What's the easiest repair? Its leaking now, and I'm afraid the plug may fall out and not be noticed. I think I'm just going to remove the plug and silicone the hole shut for now. Maybe I can heli-coil the hole and add a drain valve (valve instead of plug) so that there is no chance of stripping the soft aluminum in the future. Does anyone have any other ideas for fixing this?

I would like a front hitch for parking hay wagons and gravity boxes. From what I've seen online, most people have a bumper style hitch that mounts to the front axle. Are these bumpers pretty much a universal fit? Can I keep an eye out in my local classifieds for a fergy/8n/whatever bumper or do I need a dexta specific bumper? Same kind of question for ROPS. If I see a set of ROPS for an 8n or something, would it bolt right on? Are the mounting holes all pretty much the same for these tractors?

[Brian]

I will try and answer some of your questions to start the ball rolling.
1. You might try flushing the engine with flushing oil or perhaps change the oil again after a short period of running to make sure she is clean. Oil will not pour out of the rockers and you sound as if you are getting some lubrication up there so you are possibly fine.

2. You only have one hydraulic filter to change in the rear axle, the other you remove it and wash.



The hydraulic intake filter is the black canister to the left of the drive shaft, the return filter is to the right.

I have problems with oil descriptions. To me hydraulic oil is something with slightly more viscosity than water and is used in hydraulic motors and systems as fitted to back hoes, hedge cutters etc. It will not be good enough for lubricating the final drives of a tractor. However, there are oils that can be used in transmissions and hydraulics, like Ford 134. There are also a type of oil known as TOU, Tractor Oil Universal, or Universal Oil that can be used in engine, gearbox, rear axle and rear axle with oil immersed brakes. These oils are fine in modern engines that work hard but the additives used to stop brake squark can plate the cylinder liners and cause glazing of the bores on older or not hard working tractors. I use 20/50W Morris's Engine oil in all my tractors, petrol or diesel, in all engines, transmissions and rear axles. It is a standard oil with no extra additives and is blended for the older tractor/car engine. Just as recommended by Ford, it complies with their requirements.

Hygard might comply with Ford 134, if so you would have no problems.

3. Pump drain and level plugs are a real problem when stripped, been there, done that and eaten the pie. Your best solution is a thread insert or boreing out and threading a larger plug into the hole. Strong in the arm operators with long spanners to give extra leverage is the main problem.

4. The only place to mount a front hitch is either the axle or the front of the engine block on the axle mounting bolts. Axle is the easiest.

[SkidRoe]

Hi buckwheat,

As far as oil for your rear axle goes, look for transhydraulic fluid. You should be able to find it at TSC or any tractor dealership. That is what we run in all of our tractors. Brian is right, don't run this fluid in your engine. For our Southern Ontario climate, go for a 15w40, like Shell Rotella T or the like. It can be run year round.

Cheers - SR

[buckwheat]

I had a look at the Deere website for the Hy-gard specifications. I wasn't really sure what to look for, but now I know to look to see if it meets 134, and it does. Thank you for that information.
https://www.deere.com/en_US/parts/batte ... n_oil.page#

When I pop the top to clean/replace the hydraulic filters, I'll change to that oil.