The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Hi, I'm going to have to put new sleeves in my super dexta. I got a rebuild kit from Agriline and the kit has semi finished sleeves with no flange. The sleeves in the motor look the same but the guy at the machine shop said on the phone that I got the wrong ones. He said if they didn't have a flange(lip) they would fall out. He said he has rebuild a many Perkins 152 and they all have flanges. I did see on YouTube where a man put some kind of lock tight on the sleeves of a different engine. Any thoughts? Thanks Brent

Probably all the massey ferguson perkins p3 152 that he has seen does has lip on the liners, but super dextas are f3 152, ford cast block put together by perkins, with perkins parts to ford spec's unless, it has been machined.

The mistake your mechanic is making is there in your post. He is referring to a PERKINS 152 not a FORD 152 as fitted in the Super Dexta, they are two different engines.

Ford liners are pressed in with Loctite or similar locking compound. They are a tight fit and deform when fitted hence the reason they have to be bored to size after fitting. Tell your man that these engines have been running that way for 50 years and the liners have not dropped out.

Thanks

I decided to try to rebuild the engine myself. I got my rebuild kit in and it has rope seals in it. Is there a certain way of installing them? I didn't see anything in the manual,in case I missed it. YouTube shows some people soaking them in oil before installing them. Thanks

How would you remove the sleeve? I've heard things like breaking them out,using a torch and screw driver and a press.

I

You are finding out the hard way that you need a machine shop. They can press or bore the sleeve out, install the new sleeve and get it bored to the correct size.

One of the first problems on this board over 15 years ago was people who attempted to re-sleeve Dexta engines without the aid of a machine shop, by fitting the sleeves and then honing them out. We had quite a few people who seized up reconditioned engines because the job was not done correctly.

You cannot draw the sleeves with a tool for pulling wet liners, it is a completely different tool. If you try to chisel them out and mark the parent bore you will then be in difficulties with fitting the new liner. Some people avocate welding a bead down the liner and shrinking it out but with my luck I would weld it to the parent bore. Even if you get the sleeves out you are still going to have to size them to the correct bore size.

Sorry, but with the limited experience you have, you need specialised help from a good machine shop.

Bchaney, the only way to remove the liners without damaging the block bores is to press them out with a hydraulic press. They should be unshouldered cast iron liners fitted and they are what they call interference fit. Loctite or similar should be applied when fitting. With the liners removed the bores of the block should be 0.002" to 0.005" smaller than the external diameter of the new liners. Once the new ones are pressed in they have to be line bored to a finished spec of 3.600" to 3.601" as they distort slightly that is why you get unfinished liners. If you do not have access to any of this equipment I would strongly recommend getting a machine shop to carry this out for you. Luckily I had access to a hydraulic press which took 8t of pressure to start moving mine and a line borer which saved me a bit of money. Good luck.

Charlie, Loctite or similar is recommended by Fords in the Service Data Sheets.

Brian,
Just realised that I had put not to use loctite. Didnt check what I had written before posting as I used beads of loctite on my liners when they were pressed in. Sorry for the wrong information. As you say even though they are interference fit it is recommended to use loctite when fitting.