Fuel Tank Sealer

This forum is about the Fordson Dexta, Super Dexta and Petrol Dexta.
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charlie63
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Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by charlie63 »

Just a quick question to see if anyone has used fuel tank sealer before with success I.E. SLOSH or POR15. The reason im asking is that my fuel tank has been repaired in the past where someone has welded a patch on the bottom but it has a very small seepage of fuel from the repair. I was going to use the tank sealer but would like some advice/opinions first.

Bensdexta
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Re: Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by Bensdexta »

You could repair the welded patch or weld on another patch.

But I would check the inside of your tank, because if it's rusty, rust will keep blocking the filters. In this case, I suggest sealing the whole of the inside with suitable sealer.

Have a search on here, eg see
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... 23&p=24203
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... 14&p=38520

My Caswell sealer is still sound after 4 years.
Bensdexta - 1961 working for a living!

Timeee
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Re: Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by Timeee »

Dear Charlie

I have used the POR 15 sealer on a couple of motorcycle tanks, also fuel tanks on a Super Major, a Dexta, a diesel "grey menace" (TEF20) and on an E27N Major TVO, all with great success every time. Some were for slight leaks and weeps, others for paper thin bases caused by water (rust) and one was because there was so much rust debris coming off the bottom of the tank, it kept on bunging up the outlet/fuel tap. I made a thorough job of cleaning the interiors, used the products exactly as described in the literature (making sure absolutely dry after washing out) and ensuring that all orifices (such as outlet, spill return, breathers etc) were kept clear by inserting suitable wooden plugs.

I do find that keeping the fuel tank of a regularly used tractor relatively full of fuel limits the "wear" on what can be a 50-60 year old tank. With a low fuel level, fuel sloshes around a lot and seems to produce even more debris, abrading the bottom of the tank, leading to more fuel line blockages and a greater likelihood of leaks.

Slightly off subject but relevant, petrol tank welding repairs can be interesting, compared to diesel tanks: I had a welder friend who said that he would weld up any petrol tank, provided the customer held it tight between his (the customer's) legs, whilst he carried out the repair.......

Tim E

oehrick
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Re: Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by oehrick »

Timeee wrote:I had a welder friend who said that he would weld up any petrol tank, provided the customer held it tight between his (the customer's) legs, whilst he carried out the repair.......
Not many takers there I expect Tim :clap:

In the past I have used glass fibre resin with success, more recently I have washed several coats of diluted Hammerite inside tanks although only a few years the result has been good, not used the more modern products but especially with a diesel tank, prior cleaning is the key to success, I tend to use caustic soda solution, as hot as I dare WARNING _-CAN STRIP THE SKIN OFF YOU OR BLIND YOU along with some bits of chain* if there are no tank baffles.

For leaks and pinholes, do not underestimate the old fashioned externally heated copper bit soldering irons and soft solder, again if the steel is clean enough, you use a decent flux and clean solder (I'm talking the old leaded variety, I have no faith in the lead free c£@p for any purpose :curse: ) an inch square copper bit heated in a propane flame delivers a lot of heat into either a joint or a pool of solder - I suspect failed attempts with woefully underpowered electric soldering irons give people a false impression of how effective solder can be for a number of 'tinwork' purposes.

* a slightly embarrasing warning for other bodgers - having taken delivery of a Morris chain hoist for nothing I stripped it, hammered most links of the operating (rather than lift) chain to free them up a bit (it had lived in a plastic drum which had repeatedly filled with water which then evaporated) from the near solid block of rust. I then cast my mind about for a low effort and cost means of cleaning it up - this was half a bag of sharp sand and my little cement mixer, with a few half bricks to keep them company. I set it running and promptly forgot about it - about 4 hours later I emptied the sand out and found a surprisingly bright chain, also surprising was the way it had wound its way around the mixer paddles and the myriad of knots which the hammering effect of the bricks had tightened beyond release - in the end I had to burn the paddles out of the bowl and even then never managed to get all the knots out of the chain..............
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

Brian Cox
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Re: Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by Brian Cox »

I have used POR in two tanks in the last ten years with 100% success :clap:

ianpdexta
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Re: Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by ianpdexta »

My Super Dexta tank was weeping over an area where I think the driver's knee had worn the external paint off. I used Slosh as instructed, except that I had time to let it harden for weeks, it is fine now.

Regards

Ian

charlie63
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Re: Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by charlie63 »

Many thanks for all your comments guys. I will keep you posted on the outcome when I get to it in 3 weeks time. :)

charlie63
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Re: Fuel Tank Sealer

Post by charlie63 »

Update on the tank sealer. I purchased 4 litres of the POR15 degreaser/cleaner and cleaned the tank 4 times until the liquid ran clean. I followed the instructions to a T and mixed the cleaner 1 part of cleaner to 1 part hot water. It took a fair bit of cleaning using a handful of bolts. The POR15 etching liquid was then used ensuring the tank was turned about every 30minutes and leaving it standing for the same to make sure all inside of the tank was etched, must say this took best part of a day. The tank was then washed out and dried thoroughly using my heat gun. The POR15 sealer was then added rotating the tank to make sure all the inside was covered and then drained. As the instructions said it had to be left for a minimum of 96 hrs before adding fuel. Fuel has been added now after sitting for around 6 days and the inside looks great and no leaks so far. Success it seems. Thanks for all your previous comments and recommendations.

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