The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Brian is always telling us that the best thing for our 'old girls' is to put them to hard work.
Well, I think I've done that but not too sure if I'm over doing it.

I've been after a grass topper, to put behind my major for a while.
As many of you will be aware, they are either a very high price or 'past it'.

This week end, I finally 'took the plung' and bought a second hand topper.
Obviously a few years old, but in working order (525 GBP - Gulp!)
It's a Big Bee Agri 7 (according to the faded decals).
Green in colour, one wheel at the back, 6 foot and very heavy.
I was assured Eve would handle it with ease.
She handled it, although I'm not so sure about the 'with ease' bit.

I managed to top 3 acres on Sunday morning.
It needed low first gear and top revs.
She really worked hard, especially going up hill, but she did the job.
(Stalled her 3 times up hill, which was 'interesting' without 'live drive').
But, job done, now both Eve and I need a serious clean up.

Now, can any of you help me out with information?
I've found a sort of owners manual for Agri 42 to 72 on the internet, which are red (mine is definately an Agri 7 and original green).
It gives a parts list and mentions maintenance, but gives no specific instructions.
It tells me to maintain SAE90 oil level in gear box and makes a point of not over filling it.
It does not, however, give an indication of the correct fill level, there's no mark on the gear box either.

At the top centre of the gear box is a square headed plug that I assume is the filler plug.
Much lower down is a smaller square headed plug.
Is this a 'level plug' or a 'drain plug'?
In other words, do I take this out and wait until oil starts to come out here to show correct level?

Any guidance and tips for a 'rookie topper' would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

Mike, I'm not familiar with Big Bee, but I've owned some different 'bush hog' type 'rough' mowers over the years......I assume it's what you folks are calling a topper.
The plug on the very top is the fill hole...the small one sounds like it is indeed the level ....as in fill to that level.... on mine that is just a bit below the center line of the input shaft on the gearbox...

None of mine have ever had a drain plug...90wt gear oil should do just fine..it's what I always put in mine...

You may have a round hole in the deck that will expose the blade bolts when they pass underneath..if you do it's good idea to periodically put a socket wrench on the nut / or bolt and make sure it's tight...they tend to loosen up.....

I occasionally check the 'stump jumper' on mine too....the round dish the blades are bolted to....The ones I've had fit onto the output shaft via splines and a retaining 'castle' nut..I've had the retaining pin go missing, the nut gets loose and bodgers up the splines.....

Keep vines and long grass cleared from the gearbox shaft on top...can get wrapped up around it and plays he*& with the seal.

If you don't have live pto, you really need to get an 'overrun' clutch on the pto....makes shifting gears, slowing for a turn , etc much easier...and it might save your tractor and your neck in a tight spot one day....I can point out several tractors locally with bent radius rods, smashed grills and so forth where the owners mow without using them...

And I'm sure you know this, but always disengage the pto and wait until the mower quits turning before getting off the tractor....
One of the chaps I went to high school with got killed being careless with a running mower..


Cheers

The over run clutch is really important Mike or you could be into fencing next.

There is nothing worse than putting your foot on the clutch and still going forward.

Thanks for all of the good advice.

I am really angry with myself actually, because when I went to buy the topper I asked about the PTO overrun clutches. They had one left in stock, 'roll pin' fitting, but actually talked me out of buying it!
I wish I had not listened and bought it anyway.

So, I've been looking at PTO overrun clutches.
Most places do not seem to have them in stock and need to order.
There seems to be 2 types available...
1) the type that needs the PTO shaft drilling and fitting with a roll pin, typically 50 to 60 GBP plus Vat.
2) the quick release type that does not need the PTO shaft drilling, typically starting from 130 GBP plus Vat.

However, I think I've made a 'find'.
I've located a supplier that has 'type 1' but also has a 'type 2' version (quick release) that he imports from Italy. He believes he's the only UK supplier of this particular model (from what I can see, looks true).
1 year replacement guarantee, 60 GBP + delivery with Vat included.
He seems a very experienced and helpful guy on the phone, eager to please and help. Plenty of useful advice offered and very friendly.
I've placed my order at about 11:00 am. He's promising delivery by tomorrow afternoon, of the quick release version.

(He also has a 1 1/8" to 1 3/8" version of the quick release and he's cheaper than anyone else with the roll pin type as well.)

I'll let you know how I get on and how it performs. If this guy turns out to be as his manner suggests, I'll post contact details for others to use.

Mike

Brian wrote:The over run clutch is really important Mike or you could be inyo fencing next.

There is nothing worse than putting your foot on the clutch and still going forward.

i wonder if thats why some gear sticks are bent

Well, that was quick!

Ordered the quick release pto overrun clutch yesterday, just before lunch.
It arrived at 10:45 am this morning. Good service.
Here's what it looks like...

I'll try it out this weekend and let you know.

Update
Final Price, including tax and postage, 69.45 GBP
He even phoned to make sure it had arrived, nice guy.
If anyone is interested, he has a web site, just Google "amtexlimited.co.uk". They are in Leominster. (has ebay shop also).
The owner, Stephen Griffiths, has an original E27N about 1943. Petrol/TVO, no hydraulics but lighting kit and mid mounted mower as original equipment, He claims its never had a spanner or coat of paint on it from new. I've asked him to email me pictures (we'll see).

Mike

commander wrote:Mike, I'm not familiar with Big Bee, but I've owned some different 'bush hog' type 'rough' mowers over the years......I assume it's what you folks are calling a topper.
The plug on the very top is the fill hole...the small one sounds like it is indeed the level ....as in fill to that level.... on mine that is just a bit below the center line of the input shaft on the gearbox...

None of mine have ever had a drain plug...90wt gear oil should do just fine..it's what I always put in mine...

You may have a round hole in the deck that will expose the blade bolts when they pass underneath..if you do it's good idea to periodically put a socket wrench on the nut / or bolt and make sure it's tight...they tend to loosen up.....

I occasionally check the 'stump jumper' on mine too....the round dish the blades are bolted to....The ones I've had fit onto the output shaft via splines and a retaining 'castle' nut..I've had the retaining pin go missing, the nut gets loose and bodgers up the splines.....

Keep vines and long grass cleared from the gearbox shaft on top...can get wrapped up around it and plays he*& with the seal.

If you don't have live pto, you really need to get an 'overrun' clutch on the pto....makes shifting gears, slowing for a turn , etc much easier...and it might save your tractor and your neck in a tight spot one day....I can point out several tractors locally with bent radius rods, smashed grills and so forth where the owners mow without using them...

And I'm sure you know this, but always disengage the pto and wait until the mower quits turning before getting off the tractor....
One of the chaps I went to high school with got killed being careless with a running mower..


Cheers

Hello Commander, hey someone from my part of the world. My power major has the live clutch, is this the same as live pto? I mainly bush hog in the woods, have torn up the tubing part of drive shaft of bush hog when it bottomed out on the ground going down hill many years ago, also stalled out tractor one time when it bottomed out. I just got my power major running again this past year with the help of this site and back to using bush hog again and don't want to tear anything up again. If I ask for a pto overrun clutch will the local suppliers know what I'm talking about or is there a different name used here? Thanks for any help.

Gman,

According to Google results, the term "PTO overrun clutch" is as common in use there as here in the UK.
Here is one (of many) links about the units. You will see that not only is the site in the USA, that is also where the video is from.
http://youtractor.com/blog/uncategorize ... a-tractor/

Mike

Thanks Mike, I saved the site for the future. I do not have sound so was only able to read and watch video. Not sure if this is what I need, I do a lot of work up and down a hill and have stalled out before when bush hog hit too much ground which I don't think is good for the tractor. Will the pto overrun clutch allow the pto drive to continue to turn if bush hog locks down? Thanks for the advice.
Gerald

You do not need an over run clutch on a tractor with live PTO. It is only required on tractors with standard PTO as the flywheel effect of the cutter keeps the tractor moving forward even with the clutch down and with the brakes on.

Live or Independent PTO's do away with this problem.

Gman wrote:Will the pto overrun clutch allow the pto drive to continue to turn if bush hog locks down?

Don't think an over-run clutch will help here. Jamming of the hog is taken care of either by an overload slip clutch or by a shear pin in the hog's drive.

i fitted a over run coupling to my dexta i used the type that fits directly to the pto shaft of the trcator via a roll pin, i went this way due to the amount of pto equipment i have to run and it just means i have to shorten the shafts, the hole was allready in the shaft to accept the roll pin under all the grime over the years of use.
i have used the q release type years ago on our old grey horror and it was not very reliable, this is just my view.

Regards
James

Hi James,

you say

i have used the q release type years ago on our old grey horror and it was not very reliable, this is just my view.

This is a worrying statement.
What was the problem, so that I can look out for it

Mike

we found that the clutch slipped and chewed the insides to pieces, so it jammed into the engaged position what we couldnt understand is why it did this as it was greased every time it was used,
the one i have now has seen a good 200hrs and still clicks like it did when it was first fitted this has also been greased before all work 2 times a day and when finished work.

Regards
James

Mike.
Well done on your purchase. Good price, good delivery and sounds like a nice guy aswell.
I have the quick release type, and as I have said on this forum before, "it's the best thing I've ever bought for my tractor" It's about 6 or 7 years old now, and works hard for it's living.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gman wrote:
Will the pto overrun clutch allow the pto drive to continue to turn if bush hog locks down?
Don't think an over-run clutch will help here. Jamming of the hog is taken care of by an overload slip clutch.


As Bensdexta has said, overload slip clutch will protect things when you hit something hard (rock, stone etc) with your bushhog, but if the bushhog is jamming up from too much, or too thicker grass, then your speed is too fast for the grass.

Thanks
Kiwi Kev

Gman wrote:
Hello Commander, hey someone from my part of the world.....

Gman, I'm near the other Sharon SC, the one in York county, about 100 miles from Abbeville..

Good discussion about mowing and overrun clutches. I had a visitor here at the house tonight who now wishes he had bought one. He's got a ford 4000 (w/o independent pto) diesel at home with a badly bent radius rod, missing headlight, busted front tire and some other damage because his helper was mowing without one and it 'got away from him' ....He's a good friend , and on a fixed income. I hate to see him get his equipment torn up.

Cheers

Mods,
Perhaps this should be in the Implements section as it's pretty useful

Today I finally got to try out the topper, on Eve, with the PTO overrun clutch fitted.

What a difference Brilliant piece of kit.
Quick to fit and remove.
Press the clutch and you can stop immediately.
Best of all though is the extra loading it takes off the tractor as you start off.
All you do is engage the PTO, start the topper spinning, press the clutch, engage gear and go.

No big load on the engine as you try and start a 6 foot topper and tractor moving all at once An enjoyable experience. Money well spent. If any one is wondering if they are worth it - I would not be without one now.

Mike

They are the best tools ever made for non live tractors,
here is a pic of mine which is fitted to the pto shaft its self

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16320247@N07/4594861525/

and one of my dexta and 6ft flemming topper

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16320247@N07/4594860059/

Regards
James

jambug123 wrote:They are the best tools ever made for non live tractors,
here is a pic of mine which is fitted to the pto shaft its self



and one of my dexta and 6ft flemming topper

Hi James,
How do you like your Fleming topper? How does it cope with stones?
(BTW not sure why, but your pics don't display)
All the best,

Hi Ben,
The flemming topper is great it runs well behind the dexta, stones dont seem to be a problem it eather cuts them in half or runs over the top of them as the sides are adjustable for height.
I have no idea why they are not working i will see if i can get them to work.

Regards
James

Do most of you guys run your ORC on your tractor PTO output shaft or the slasher input shaft?
I know that on the tractor allows you to use 1 ORC with different implements instead of 1 for each implement. Just wondering if anybody had any comments?
Kiwi Kev

wont it just ratchet if it is used on the implement end of the pto? and the implement wont turn?

John.n
If you put it on the implement end, you will need to turn the ORC end for end, which will mean that the ratchet will still work in the correct direction to drive the slasher.
Kiwi Kev