The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

just bought myself a plough from fleebay

3 furrow ransomes ts 59 j

i plan to make it a 2 f plough
i,m told ( and believe ) that it has yl bodies 183 's , but i aint sure if they r.
not found a model no. stamp on the back of the bodies yet , do they they all have one ?

no discs's or clamps at all so i need them + 2 new share , also wheel is rough .
threeded bar depth handel is interesting too , need that to don't i

http://s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g36 ... %2059%20J/
link to the album i think .
tom
will update on progress .

Looks good, shame about the discs and skimmers though, you are behind me in the queue!

Think I would try her as a three before changing things. 10" furrows at 4" deep with the YL's should be within the power of the Dexta but you might need a little front weight.

The wheel is a common problem with the pressed steel ones and I too have a bent adjuster to sort out on the "Robin".

the seller had started to convert to 2 f before he decided to sell. he bought another with sliding cross shaft but kept all the disc ect. off this one .( but i new this when i bid.)

so most of the bolts r partly out already , if im right then one nut / bolt out and all the 3 rd furrow frame will come off . then no. 3 leg becomes no. 2 leg ?? i think .
i think i'm right to try and remove the longest part of the main frame ( 3rd furrow frame ) to make the thing shorter , but i guess im loosing weight / ballast to wich is a negative , ??

i have used my s dexta with my 3 F 11" ( 33" ) fergie plough which it pulled well . so i agree it should cope , with all 3 .
fergie ploughs have no depth wheel , my qualitrol works so do i need the depth wheel ? my plan is match ploughing , for fun , so i think the wheel will help there ? do u use it in position then or quali ? with a depth wheel .

The depth wheel is essential for match ploughing, I find it hard to get the finishing furrow right with just draft control.

You do not need to move the rear leg to the second position, they are all the same on those ploughs.

Don't think removing the third furrow will matter too much as you will only be ploughing a max of 6" with the YL's.

The link will not work correctly on my pc and at work. Pittty, I would like to see the plough.
Anyone else has this problem?

try this one m8


http://s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g36 ... %2059%20J/

let me know if it works plz
now i look at them they look like the same link ?

tom

search TS 59 J
on google

Both links work for me

They both work for me too.

Think you must have let the fire out in your computer's boiler Henk.

I think it's a securety mather.
Could some please put a picture on this topic?

if i type
TS 59 J
on google im first 2 results .
on my putter anyhow

Thanks for the pictures Tom,

Other fotobuckets works well. Can't find out why yours is jamming my pc.
I've tried ggl but no second place over here in Holland.

Nice plough. Looks a bit like mine, the Ford-Ransomes EP model. A lot of people say mine is a TS 59, but there’s a lot of difference between them.
Do you happen to know the difference between the J and G behind the model number?

sorry m8 no idea what the J stands for
i guess some think to do with it being ley / yl bodies , not digger , but thats only a guess
my first ransomes plough .
the manual i bought from agrimanuals web site is for the J and M . model , good manual btw.
picture on the front of manual is my plough , correct bodies.

hi got some more parts today

any advice on fitting rivets for the discs , i've done it b4 but i struggled.

tom

Hot rivet! Nice heavy punch with a hole about 1/4" deep on end and an anvil or heavy metal vice, push red hot rivet through disc and hub, punch over the end and WHACK!

Too many people try to do it cold and batter the rivet end out of existence. This way leaves you a nice strong rivet head and a tight rivet.

cheers m8
did it hot last time ,but played around with a enginiers ball piene , rivet started to go cold , i'll attack it more this time

i'm told to try to countersink /chamfer the hole in the disc so the rivets are less lightly to snag on my skimms ?
but discs look a bit thin to countersink ?
only hopin to do this once so i may try to drill them , not decided yet .
disc are spring steel tho aint they , so gonna be hard to drill

the chap suggested a masonary bit ( mason master was the term )

tom lad wrote:any advice on fitting rivets for the discs , i've done it b4 but i struggled.

Anything wrong with bolting them on??

You are not a pure-ist then Ben?

Seriously, the bolt protrude and soil builds on them, also as Tom says, the bolts will foul the skimmers.

mouldboard parts back from sandblasting
decided to get the bodie parts nut and bolt clean from the off.
the main frame of the plough is un touched , as yet but as the bodies come of with 3 bolts then easy to paint at a later date.


get some more paint on them now and re assemble.

update
i've countersunk the holes in the discs for the rivets .
i first tried a standard hss bit not a chance , the discs are far to hard , cutting butter with a knife made from butter me thinks .
i was told to use a "mason master " drill bit , a masaonary bit i found in my coffee tin says mason master !!! 15 mm brand new , it did the job in my m8s stand drill, just fit , easy to drill in that , but look at the photo of the new bit after 6 countersinks .




just got to try hot rivets now .
link to album
http://s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g36 ... %2059%20J/

I've just did the hot rivet job. It takes two persons, but works well. You have to use a good underground like a anvil and make the rivet orange hot.

ok m8

i'm wondering how to mend the depth wheel ?

more photos in the album
if i cut of the rotten outer flange of the wheel , so i'm left with a round flat rim , i can weld on a new hoop of steel ,
so 3 " wide 4 mm thick ???? about 26 " from memory
or do i set it in by 1/2 " - 1" to make a marker flange ? so then the hoop is welded to one side , so the rim is ofset rather than in the middle of the hoop ??
, or two hoops 1 1/2 " wide each then weld one either side

how do the experts make the marker flange on to there existing depth wheel ?

photo borrowed from westlake website

suggestions plz

help plz.
on the front of the mouldboard there is a oval / kidney shaped cast little shin piece with two small holes for rivets and a hole for the front plough bolt .
im struggleing to get rivets for it .
cant decide which way around the rivet went / should be , one hole is countersunk , the frog side , so peened on the front shinney side of the body ????
debating trying a nail hot riveted ??
the plough bolt will act as a pivot piont when u adjust the stay at the back of the body ( i think )
the bodies are yl 's

looking forwart to seeing his plough working BUT with the weather around here at the moment any combining may not be soon