Best Degreaser??

[hiking bear]

Over the years i have always used parafin for degreasing and on some jobs Gunk, followed by a rinse of water. Both do the job ok but i would like to know what others use and how effective it is as there are now many other brands of degreaser available.

[Brian]

I have used both and got on OK but I like "Jitzer". I used to buy that in 25lt drums which was quite cost effective. Watch out though. it will disolve tarmac!

[Bensdexta]

It depends what you want to degrease for. If I'm degreasing as prep for painting, I use 'panel wipe' - the one I've been using is U-Pol, which seems to have a good reputation amongst paint sprayers.
All the best,

[hiking bear]

I was really thinking about heavy degreasing,engine etc, brush or spray on and hose off. I use panel wipe before painting,cant tell you the make as it carries the local factors name only, the smell always reminds me of a dry cleaners shop.

[BarryM]

Hiking Bear,

If you have access to Castrol products they make a very good degreaser called Workshop Cleaner. It is a pink colored liquid and try not to get it on your hands as it tends to sting a little.

[Mike Kuscher]

Hiking Bear,

It remindes you of a dry cleaners because they use the same chemical for dry cleaning as was used industially in de-greasing tanks, Trico (Trichloroethalyne).
Brilliant but deadly!

That's why H&SE stopped its use industrially. Too many people passing out from the fumes and falling into the tank !!

Usually, for really messy jobs, I start with Gunk for general de-greasing.
If it neads to be cleaner, I follow up with Paraffin.
If I'm going to paint it, I then wipe it over with White Spirit.
If I'm REALLY desperate, I originally 'attack it' with Nitromors.

Before starting painting, it helps if you take a good drink of Cellulose Thinners.
It'll eventually kill you, but you'll get a really smooth finish (Sorry! Couldn't resist it.)

Mike

[Tmac]

The active ingredient in most of the cold dip cleaner is a chemical called "Brulin or Burlin" it is then diluted by the various suppliers such as Gunk and others that sell carb boil out type cleaners.

In aircraft engine shops this is what is used on all alloy parts as it is safe for Alum and Magnesium. And certified for the use on them. Use chemical gloves when handling.

For small hot tank jobs I like to use just old common Tide in a high concentration. Hot tank solutions contain a lye based soap. Just dont use them on any non-ferrous metals.There is a name for the stuff used there but I cant remember it just now.

If you have access to a surplus supplier, something called Skydrol or Stauffer 500 works well in a tank. This stuff can often be bought for a very low price surplus. This is a water soluble hydraulic fluid used in large jet planes. It is safe to use as it is non-flammable. When washed with water it leaves a non-oily finish. Jut dont get it in your eyes!! Use RUBBER gloves. This stuff will dissolve any synthetic plastics or rubbery type seals and remove ALL paint except some epoxy type finishes. Strangely enough it has no effect on pure or butal rubber. The seals in systems that use this stuff are made from butal rubber.