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Project: Super Major(with emphasis on "Super":)

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:41 pm
by Foxen
I thought I'd start a kind of diary here as well as on the swedish forum :)

Will be updating a little now and then if there is any interest?(comments please)

EDIT:
This is a low-cost-fix-everything-if-possible-self project, I am unemployed and low on cash but have lots of time on my hands and my dad helps me out with what parts needs to be bought since he reckons the tractor could do some work at his little farm... just so you all know and don't think "Why is he spending so much time building something that can be bought new?"(But to tell the truth, I would probably have made all sorts of crazy homemade things anyway, because I think it's fun)

Purists beware, this is my "sandbox" where I modify just about everything I feel needs modification to suit me, the owner ;)

With that said, do please watch the pictures and if there are anything you'd like to ask, feel free to ask them here... If you want something made that I've made for my tractor, feel free to ask, the question's always free :)

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:49 pm
by Bensdexta
Yes please :)
With as many pics as poss!
I look forward to your diary!

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:55 pm
by henk
Foxen,

Always nice to read such stories.

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:35 pm
by Pascal
Looking forward to it! :D

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:51 pm
by Foxen
Allright, I've moved all the heavy stuff into wiki :)

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:32 pm
by Brian
Great pictures but may I suggest that you put this thread on the wiki and make it an ongoing story.

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:02 am
by Foxen
Suggestions are welcome, will give it some thought while I spend the day fiddling with the tractor :)

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:17 pm
by super6
hi there nice project your doing there.
can you tell me where you got temp gauge and is it waterproof
thanks Brett

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:21 pm
by Foxen
The temp gauge I got is just an ordinary "car" type that you can buy just about everywhere, I'm not sure this one is waterproof but the brand is "Equus" and they are pretty good compared to some cheaper variants, as I will be installing a cab later on(again) I'm not that worried if it's waterproof or not... Sorry if this doesn't quite answer the question.

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:52 pm
by Foxen
For those who wants to see what the thermostart looked like when I tested it out today, click here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9r3wiHJIhQ :lol:

First attempt at starting(later on) went just fine, except when I hit the start button the engine started quickly and as soon as I let go of the start button the fuse blew ;) So, I've "upped" the primary fuse to 20A instead of 15A and then it worked no problem...

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:17 pm
by henk
Foxen,

Great job your doing.

Nice drawings. I use Solid Edge. It's a bit the same. I have made some drawings of different pins for the hitch and drawbar with the original round shaped heads. I'm planning to make a CNC program with a Cam program.

:)

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:52 pm
by FordsonNorway
Nice work :D

Greeting from Norway

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:19 pm
by Foxen
Thank you for all the nice feedback :D
I simplified some of the pins that had the rounded head into straight angles but still "ball" type(not that good at making radius's in solidworks, besides I think that the more angled approach gives my dad's old workmate less of a headache ;)

Project: Super Major(with emphasis on "Super":)

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:31 pm
by Kim
You are doing a "Super" job and then some! I agree with Brian about posting it on the Wiki- it will be of great help to many forum members. You are really doing things right and thank you for sharing. Keep up the great work! :D :wink:

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:52 pm
by Dom
Foxen
Congratulations on your fine work. I don't think I've seen better.
Can you tell me what type of metal you used to machine the pins out of ?

Kind Regards.........Dom

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 2:45 am
by Mark
Foxen,
Everything looks good. Your dad's mate does very good work as well.
I only have one question...are you going to take all those parts back off to get everything that's not painted, painted? I'd be worried that I'd scratch all the good painted parts putting them on before I painted the tractor housing.
All in all it will be a great tractor when you get done. :)

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 5:06 pm
by Foxen
Mark wrote:Foxen,
Everything looks good. Your dad's mate does very good work as well.
I only have one question...are you going to take all those parts back off to get everything that's not painted, painted? I'd be worried that I'd scratch all the good painted parts putting them on before I painted the tractor housing.
All in all it will be a great tractor when you get done. :)
Thank you for all the replies(that was kinda one reason for writing on the forum instead of in the wiki, I want feedback) ;)

Most of the parts will not be removed and most of the tractor will go on "unrestored", I will get as much dirt and grime off as possibly and then spray the rear end with linseed oil to inhibit further rust until the day I have a big, well lit and heated workshop of my own where I can pull her to parts and do all the stuff I can't do now... But in the meanwhile I modernize a little here and there and correct some design flaws(like the drawbar carrier support) and personalize the tractor to suit it's wacko owner :lol:
I hope this doesn't disappoint any of you too much but I won't be driving with the paintwork but rather with the machinery and as long as that works well I am happy(but as you can see, all the things I've had loose so far has got new paint when I put it back).

I went to dad's cousin today and picked up my other pair of rear wings, they come off an old power major which means they have the half-moon shaped cut-out for the drum brakes but at least they are structurally intact which isn't the case with those on my tractor(I and a friend took the roll cage off and the rear wings instantly folded over and fell in against the seat, badly rusted!)

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 5:43 pm
by Brian
The problem we have, as the people who run this site, is the subject is BIG.

We want this sort of input and think it is a fantastic job but it should be on the Wiki as an on going story.

There is no problem with the comments etc. but the number and size of the pictures, and I hope there will be more of them, cause the subject to load slowly for some people and not at all if you still have dial-up.

No offense is intended by this post, it is still a polite request.

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 6:33 pm
by Foxen
Yes Brian, I understand that fully and I will move the picture part of this thread into wiki instead, I'll be getting to it later this evening I think.

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:39 pm
by Brian
Thanks Foxen, lets have more pictures too, its very interesting but you really need to add a Perkins V8 as well. :D

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:55 am
by Foxen
Brian wrote:Thanks Foxen, lets have more pictures too, its very interesting but you really need to add a Perkins V8 as well. :D
More pictures will be coming, but a Perkins V8 is just not going to happen, if I swap the engine out someday it will most likely be for either a 590E, a 2700-series four cylinder or a six cylinder engine :)
Should it so happen that neither of those engines can be found, then I might settle for a Perkins AD4-something but that will only happen when all other options are "dead" :)

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 12:51 pm
by Dom
I wanted to get a couple of Pins (Bolts) machined like Foxen has made, can anyone give me an idea what type of metal is used to make them?

Thanks......Dom

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 4:42 pm
by henk
Dom,

Normal round metal. It's better to worn the pin than the hole.
I have put some small bushes in the holes and use a bit stronger metal. If the bushes are worn than I just have to press them out and new ones in. The bushes are for sale at the CNC dealer.

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:15 pm
by Foxen
Ah, you meant like that Dom ;)
Well, I suppose he made them out of regular axle steel, not exactly the softest stuff they have but neither something that will eat the bushings out, my concern was that they must not be made from something soft that could cause them to bend and become impossible to get out of their forks/bores... I'm already thinking of making bushes for the "T" parts in the top end of the lift linkage, the bores in them are badly worn and they rattle and "chatter" a bit.

Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:14 pm
by Dom
Thanks Guys

For what I need them for I was more worried about them bending than wearing. So I'll see about that axle steel.

Kind Regards......Dom