The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Hi Brian,
I took this picture. I believe the coupling is on time like this?




Hi Grani,
Thank you for your reaction!

Is it correct to say, that if cylinder No. 1 is above, the spline (see picture) on the crankshaft is above too?

That looks right Pascal. The crank key can be at the top when both No.1 and No.6 are on firing stroke so it won't help you to fit the pump correctly.

Hi Brian,

Thank for your reaction.
I agree with you, that it won't help to fit the pump correct, but my intention with this was to mount the flywheel correct (and not 180 degrees out), since there are two ways to mount the flywheel.
Or am I wrong?

It only fits one way. The two dowel pins are of different size. Some flywheels don´t have the degree scale. Instead there is only a single mark.

Is it really? I didn't knew that. Good to know before I am going to mount it! Thank you, Grani!

Can you tell me how much cooling fluid and how much oil I need?
Does the amount of oil differs from the different sumps?

Hi guys,

I hope you will be able to help me (again).
Yesterday I mounted the flywheel and tried to turn it around to set it "on time".
Some how I wasn't able to turn it around..

When mounting the pistons, I put some oil on the pistons as lubricant. That was about 3 months ago.
Could it be, that the oil got sticky? I mounted the starter engine to help the flywheel got loose, but someting tells me it's better to ask you guys first.

I have had this before (with the old pistons in), but after a little movement I could turn the flywheel around quite easy.

The oil can´t get sticky. If it was ok before, but now it´s stuck then perhaps you did put too long bolts for the flywheel. If the bolts goes all the way through the crankshaft flange the bolts can collide with the oilpan and block.
DO NOT use the starter!!! If it does not turn by hand you got something wrong. It is good to turn the engine after each part during the assembly to test the easy movement.
Do you have the timing gears in place? I can see some gears in the picture.

As Grani says, do not use the starter.

First of all:
Did you just use oil to lubricate bearings and pistons? If so, oil will gradually drain away from those surfaces over a period. Oil is OK if you are going to have the engine running quite soon after rebuild but I would always use something like molybdenum grease as an assembly compound on all bearings and rings if it was going to be a while before I got it running.

Did you check it would turn after fitting each bearing and piston?

Dis you put plenty of oil/grease on the crankshaft oil seals?

You should try a big bar or a lever on the starter ring gear to get her to turn.

If you have not got the timing gears on it is possible that the connecting rods can strike the camshaft. This is what happened on engines with three bolt fixing cam shafts when the bolts used to break letting the crank turn without turning the camshaft. With disastrous results!

Did you put all the bearingcaps on the same places as they where before, and the same way also?

Hi Grani and Brian,

First of all thank you very much for your quicke response!
I am glad to have not used the starter yet.

I used the same bolts for the flywheel as before. I only mounted another sump as the original sump was broken. I guess this will not be the reason?

I don't have the timing gears in place yet. I was going to mount the after putting the flywheel in the correct position.

I think, that the oil may be drained away. I didn't think of that. Good thought, Brian. Thank you!
The engine was turning after mounting the pistons.
The crackshaft was oiled. I renewed all the bearingcaps of the crankshaft.

Brian, what do you mean with your reaction about the connecting rods striking the camshaft? I don't quite understand it.

I guess it's a good idea to get the head off? Then oil the pistons again, try to turn the engine, put the head back on and try to turn the engine? And then set the engine on time?
Or is it better so set the engine on time before putting the head on?

If you turn the crank without the timing gears connected, the big end bearing housings on the connecting rods can strke the camshaft lobes as this is not turning.

You do not need the flywheel on to set the timing, you line up the marks on the crank gear,camshaft gear and auxillary drive gear.

The flywheel markings are only used to set the injection pump timing and you need the other gears on before you do that.

If you only used oil on the crank and pistons you are going to have to turn her over. Removing the head will not help as you can pour oil down the injector ports and get the same effect. I would suspect it is a combination of crank and pistons plus the crank seal. The bar method is your best bet. But put some oil in the bores, it will help with compression when you first start.

Hi Brian,

Thank you for your advice and explination!

Good thought, that the crank strikes the lobes of the camshaft!
But shouldn't there be any movement than?
I'll try to turn the camshaft. I might get them loose and be able to mount the distribution gears.

What do you mean with "the bar method"? Or is that the method you just explained?
Which bores do you mean? I tried to translate the word, but I don't really understand it. Sorry.

Bores = Cylinders. Put a little oil down through the injector holes.
Bar = Long lever in either the flywheel ring gear or similar to lever the engine to turn it over.

If you have the injectors in I would take them out whilst you are trying to turn her over.

Thank you very much, Brian!

I'll keep you updated.

Hi guys,

Here's a little update from me.
Yesterday evenening I worked shortly on the 590e.
We managed to turn the camshaft, but the crankshaft is still stuck.

My cousin and I are planning to do the 6 cylinder conversion in February.
Before the conversion we will take off the sump and take a look at the crank and try to find out what's wrong. And try to fix it.

I'll keep you updated.

This is just to warn you Pascal! The boat is booked, the hotel is booked! We shall expect to be met by a completed conversion on Museum Plain the first weekend after Easter!

I am looking forward to it, Brian!!

Hi guys,ive just picked up a 6 cylinder Ford eingine and i think its either a 330 or a 360.There is no shaft on the pump and the pump fits right onto the timing case.I have taken some numbers off the block and was hoping someone could identify the engine for me.Numbers as follows-688F 6090 GAA , PB, T4, 703F-6015-BA. Pascal will try and add pics of the 2 6 cylinder Supers i bought last year and you will see a few changes in them.Craig

Looking forward to your pictures!

Looking forward to the 6 cylinder pictures

Pascal: Already started at the 6 cylinder conversion?? Looking forward to pictures of the conversion.

Kind regards,

Hi Arno,

Unfortunately the cousin, who is going to help me with the conversion is very busy...
Hopefully he has some time in March/April, so the conversion is finished before the festivals begin.
I'll keep you updated.

How's your conversion?

Can anyone tell me if there is an easy way to post pics on here? Craig

Hi Craig,

Maybe this link will help you?
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... hotobucket
Or just type "photobucket" in the search function.

I use Photobucket to upload pictures.

Good luck.
Looking forward to your pictures!

Hi pascal,

My plan was too build the engine in a few weeks ago, but I noticed some broken bearings in the gearbox. Yesterday I got the new bearings and some other parts to rebuild the gearbox, hopefully I can assemble the gearbox this saturday and maybe the engine next week. Yust keep an eye on my topic for updates.

Regards,

Arno

Hi Arno,

Hopefully you got the assembling of the gearbox done today.
Looking forward to your updates.
Good luck!