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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 9:09 pm
by Pascal
Hi guys,

Today my cousin made the other half of the frame. The tractor is standing on it own wheels (without a jack under it).
We have a rolling chassis! :wink:

Now we have to do a lot of little jobs like making a bracket for the alternator, bending the fuel lines, connecting the airfilter, etc.
I'll keep you updated.


Hi Bensdexta,
I don't think the shoulder is necessary: imho the forces are the other way around. But I will be interested to hear your opinion of course.

PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 9:51 pm
by Foxen
Pascal wrote:Hi guys,

Today my cousin made the other half of the frame. The tractor is standing on it own wheels (without a jack under it).
We have a rolling chassis! :wink:

Now we have to do a lot of little jobs like making a bracket for the alternator, bending the fuel lines, connecting the airfilter, etc.
I'll keep you updated.


Hi Bensdexta,
I don't think the shoulder is necessary: imho the forces are the other way around. But I will be interested to hear your opinion of course.


I don't think a shoulder on the rod would be beneficial at all as this would create some unwanted tension in the assembly, dad's cousin supported his roof-mounted hydraulic logging crane in a similar way with rods connecting the front upper edge of the cab with the front tombstone and they snapped like twigs until he gave them the possibility to move ever so slightly in their support brackets on the roof...

PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 11:31 pm
by Bensdexta
Pascal wrote:I don't think the shoulder is necessary: imho the forces are the other way around. But I will be interested to hear your opinion of course.
Yes as you say, normally your rods will be in tension, when a shoulder won't help.

I think you have a number of bolts holding the clutch housing and engine flanges together at the top of the housing. The rods effectively replace the bolts at the bottom of the housing which are absent where the engine & clutch flange bolt holes don't line up. I imagine you will pretension the rods to ensure that the flanges never move apart at the bottom.

However if you were to hang heavy weights on the ends of your tractor, tending to bow it upwards in the middle, the rods won't contribute much strength. In this case the loads will be opposed by the tension in the bolts at the top of the housing and compression between the flanges at the bottom and in the siderails. Assuming these joints are strong enough, you should be OK.

So on second thoughts, I don't think you need shoulders on your rods. There remains the question of how much pretension to put on the rods. It is essential that the flanges never separate at the bottom, or the casting will crack.

I think Foxen makes a valid point to do with 'built-in stresses', a common problem for example in bridges if one of the piers settles a little. If the supporting structure in your case the bracket at the front of the rod, is not accurately aligned, the rod will be subjected to bending as well as tension - a bad thing. So some lateral freedom at the bracket to accommodate any flexing of the tractor is a good thing. Lack of a shoulder and a slightly oversize hole in the bracket will help this. Similarly some lateral freedom in the joint at the rear end of the rod is also a good thing. I hope this makes sense! :wink:

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:28 am
by Emiel
Pascal wrote:Hi Emiel,

Sounds like an interesing idea. :D
Have you already subscribed for Meddo?
Will you bring the combine this year?


Hello Pascal,

Yes, we've subscribed, but we're not planning to take the combine to Meddo.

I did a 10 km trip last year to a friend to mow some rhye, and this combine is definitely not up to the requirements of todays traffic in our area. And we do certainly not want to pimp her up with large mirrors, camera's etc. Transport on a low bed trailer will be more expensive than the worth of the machine. So we have to go standard with our tractors as usual and the Heckflosse this year.

Best regards

Emiel

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:29 am
by Emiel
Forgot one thing:

There is room for a petrol dexta, a custum made Super with 6 cyl. and a roadles super six.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 6:02 pm
by Pascal
Hi Emiel,

Too bad for the combine. But as I read your story I can understand
you leave it at home.

Looking forward to meet you again @ Meddo.

PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 8:58 pm
by Pascal
Hi guys,

It has been a while, but here's another update.
The projects starts to run on it's end... :beer: ... I guess a week or so? With a bit of luck, she runs very nice...like a 6 men orchestra. :thumbs:

Image

Image

My uncle has made a frame for the 4 cylinder engine, so I can take it with me in the lift. The frame is almost ready.
The wheels are removable.

Image

I'll keep you updated.

PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:06 pm
by Frans
Looks good :clap: we will see and hear in some days

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 10:31 am
by henk
You have impress me Pascal,

Head of for you. It looks great.
Ask Eva to measure how high you will jump in the air when she fires up.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:33 pm
by Grani
Good working, except for one thing. Do you have try to jack up the front wheels and check if they swing freely up and down the whole way with the new "A-frame" design? :scratchhead:

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:01 pm
by Pascal
Thank you, guys, but most of the credit should go to my cousin and uncle: they are helping me big time!

Henk,
I will ask her...I guess she needs a ladder... :D

Grani,
Due to the "double axle" (see pictures), that should be no problem according my uncle. I haven't tried it myself yet.
Do you expect any problems?

Image

Image

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:40 pm
by fergusont20
Hi Pascal

Your tractor is looking very good, i am impressed with your cousins and uncles work. You look to have another good variation of supporting the front axle properly, i guess the ends are off toplinks? one thing i would say is, i would definantly weld the 'U' pieces to the sidearms arms and not just rely on the bolt through it, and i would want to put a piece of box section or round bar between the two plates which your sidearms fix to, because when your axle pivots it will try and force these plates inwards, by putting something between the plates this well help brace them

Very good work though

More pictures please :)

Mark

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:43 pm
by Grani
Aha, that hidden joint might do the tric. And again, if it swings easy all the way then it´s ok. :thumbs:

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:57 pm
by Bensdexta
Grani wrote:Aha, that hidden joint might do the tric. And again, if it swings easy all the way then it´s ok. :thumbs:
When the axle pivots, won't the rear end of the radius arm want to move up and down in sympathy with the front end? Or maybe you have quite some play in the bolt through the axle and U-piece?

Or does the U-piece pivot on the bolt through the front of the radius arm - perhaps the reason for Grani's aha :?: :wink:

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 10:05 pm
by fergusont20
I'm pretty sure that the rear end of the Side arms is got a sleeve in it as it is part of a top link, and will move up and down with axle.

I'm guessing that's how it works

PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 10:08 pm
by Grani
Bensdexta wrote:Or does the U-piece pivot on the bolt through the front of the radius arm :?:

That was the reason for my "aha"

PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:55 pm
by Pascal
Hi guys,

A short message from me..
We tried to start the 590e up this evening, but it seems to be off time.
See the topic "timing" on the New Major forum.

Any help will be highly appreciated!

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:04 am
by fergusont20
Am i correct in remembering that you took the injector pump off when you were painting the engine block??

Have you retimed the pump since refitting it?? I dont know myself as i have never set the timing on one of these engines and obviously different pumps have different timing marks etc

If not set correctly you will struggle to start the engine, or it will run rough.

You will need to take off the inspection cover so you can see the marks on the flywheel and also on the pump.

Im sure Grani will be able to tell you what the sequence is for this engine and pump

Mark

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:00 am
by Pascal
Thank you Mark.

I think we need Grani's help indeed!
Taking the inspection cover off seems a good idea to me.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:14 am
by henk
Pascal,

Was Eva there with the ladder.

Pity it fail, but timing isn't that hard.

PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 6:12 am
by Pascal
Hi guys,

With your help, my cousin got my 590e 'on time' yesterday.
I have heard, that she's running, after more than 30 years! Although she's running a bit irregular, it seems. Perhaps some dirt in the fuel pump?
The fuel pump is the only thing, I haven't done anything with, because it's on the outside of the engine and easy to take off.

I'll go and look for myself tonight and bring her home.
I'll keep you updated.

Thank you for your help!


Hi Henk,
The ladder wasn't necissary that night...it will be this night! ;-)

PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:55 pm
by Pascal
Hi guys,

Thursday night I brought my tractor home.
It needs some attention, but most of the work is done.

Image

10 cylinder Fordson power!! 8)

Image

It was great to hear her running. Unfortunately she runs a bit irregular (is this the correct word?).
At 800 rpm (the first seconds of this film) it's fine, but at 650 rpm it doesn't sounds that well to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJ2caDW1sVY

During my trip to my home, she suddenly starts to slightly reduce the rpm's. Just like she runned out of diesel. Eventually she stopped running...just on the
side of the road... :cry: Apparently she didn't get (enough) diesel.
Happily my cousin (he's a hero! 8)) got an idea :idea: : he pumped diesel into the fuel pump with the fuel lift pump.
After that we could start her up and drive homewards.

At home we found out, that she runned a less irregular, but not 100% okay.
Yesterday I got of the fuelpump and brought it to an expert.

I'll keep you updated.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:27 pm
by henk
Congratulations Pascal,

You have done a fine job.
Have you adjust the damping valve on the vacuum house of the pump? That's for irregular running.
Are you planning to put the power steering back on it?
Would like to hear running here on the 12 of August.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:42 pm
by Frans
Nice Job Pascal,

will see it at Meddo (i was there last friday) but its a 6 hour drive from where I live (excl boat trip)

How does the nose cone fit ? I am still planning to buy one.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:06 pm
by fergusont20
Nice pictures pascal

Your rear wheels look very tall, are they 36 or 38 "

Mark