Brake adjustment, super major
Brake adjustment, super major
Well... I seem to have a more recent workshop manual than the one that can be downloaded here and I have a _lot_ of "addenums" for it, but I can't find anywhere how to adjust the brakes properly when they have been completely torn apart(which is the state they are in now)
From what I gather the super major brakes should be better at stopping the tractor than the older drum brakes but a problem is making them "let go" once you've braked, right? Anyways, if someone could point me in the direction of finding the correct procedure to re-assemble the brakes and set them up correctly I would be a very happy man
From what I gather the super major brakes should be better at stopping the tractor than the older drum brakes but a problem is making them "let go" once you've braked, right? Anyways, if someone could point me in the direction of finding the correct procedure to re-assemble the brakes and set them up correctly I would be a very happy man
Essex Lily - Super Major -62 (No. 1618924)
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
William,
Brake adjustment on the Super is straight forward. First slacken the self-locking pull nut in the linkage so that the brake pedal goes right down and there is nothing pulling on the linkage. adjust the screw on the bottom of the brake housing until it is up tight then back off 1 and 1/2 turns, then tighten the lock nut.
Place a 1/2" (13mm) block of wood between the upper side of the pedal and the foot plate. Adjust the self-locking pull nut until the pedal can just be eased off the block. Only take up the free play,do not overtighten. The pedal should feel springy.
Repeat on the other side.
Test by locking the pedals together, drive forward in first gear at about 1300 rpm. Apply the brakes with your foot in the centre of the two pedals. If she pulls to one side or the other tighten the pull nut on the opposite side until she pulls in a straight line.
After a time the brakes will tend to lock on when applied. This is a fault with all makes of tractor that use these Girling disc brakes. When this happens, strip out the brakes and clean out the dust from actuators and housings. Be careful, the dust may contain asbestos.
Brake adjustment on the Super is straight forward. First slacken the self-locking pull nut in the linkage so that the brake pedal goes right down and there is nothing pulling on the linkage. adjust the screw on the bottom of the brake housing until it is up tight then back off 1 and 1/2 turns, then tighten the lock nut.
Place a 1/2" (13mm) block of wood between the upper side of the pedal and the foot plate. Adjust the self-locking pull nut until the pedal can just be eased off the block. Only take up the free play,do not overtighten. The pedal should feel springy.
Repeat on the other side.
Test by locking the pedals together, drive forward in first gear at about 1300 rpm. Apply the brakes with your foot in the centre of the two pedals. If she pulls to one side or the other tighten the pull nut on the opposite side until she pulls in a straight line.
After a time the brakes will tend to lock on when applied. This is a fault with all makes of tractor that use these Girling disc brakes. When this happens, strip out the brakes and clean out the dust from actuators and housings. Be careful, the dust may contain asbestos.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
Thank you Brian, this was exactly the information I neededBrian wrote:William,
Brake adjustment on the Super is straight forward. First slacken the self-locking pull nut in the linkage so that the brake pedal goes right down and there is nothing pulling on the linkage. adjust the screw on the bottom of the brake housing until it is up tight then back off 1 and 1/2 turns, then tighten the lock nut.
Place a 1/2" (13mm) block of wood between the upper side of the pedal and the foot plate. Adjust the self-locking pull nut until the pedal can just be eased off the block. Only take up the free play,do not overtighten. The pedal should feel springy.
Repeat on the other side.
Test by locking the pedals together, drive forward in first gear at about 1300 rpm. Apply the brakes with your foot in the centre of the two pedals. If she pulls to one side or the other tighten the pull nut on the opposite side until she pulls in a straight line.
After a time the brakes will tend to lock on when applied. This is a fault with all makes of tractor that use these Girling disc brakes. When this happens, strip out the brakes and clean out the dust from actuators and housings. Be careful, the dust may contain asbestos.
I suppose that it's because of dust setting on the splines and the ball bearings that make them "lock on"? I suppose that harder springs in the actuators would solve nothing... other than making the pedals harder to press down
Essex Lily - Super Major -62 (No. 1618924)
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
Heavier springs would just make the brake less effective. There is very little pedal pressure required to work the actuater then the disc itself assist in forcing the balls up the ramps. You really need a slightly worn and shiny disc.
I am suffering the same problem with Nuffy, I have stripped, cleaned, polished and lubricated the actuators and splines but still one brake locks on.
I am suffering the same problem with Nuffy, I have stripped, cleaned, polished and lubricated the actuators and splines but still one brake locks on.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
Which side? I'd be thinking that one side will lock on because both actuators are identical, if one could make one that's a "mirror" of the existing ones and put that on the side that locks on it might solve this problem of ours...
I'll try putting a slight dab of high pressure lithium grease on the splines and the balls when I assemble my brakes...
I tore down the linkage to both the brakes and the clutch today and cleaned off all the pins and they are a sore sight So... about 20 minutes of computer work and I now the drawings for the new pins have been forwarded to "the expertise"... Since the holes will be worn I figured I'd add 0.5mm to the diameter of every pin and drill the holes up... This is becoming a habit, reconstructing and re-inventing things
I'll try putting a slight dab of high pressure lithium grease on the splines and the balls when I assemble my brakes...
I tore down the linkage to both the brakes and the clutch today and cleaned off all the pins and they are a sore sight So... about 20 minutes of computer work and I now the drawings for the new pins have been forwarded to "the expertise"... Since the holes will be worn I figured I'd add 0.5mm to the diameter of every pin and drill the holes up... This is becoming a habit, reconstructing and re-inventing things
Essex Lily - Super Major -62 (No. 1618924)
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
Allright, I'll polish the balls and just lubricate the splines a tad...
Essex Lily - Super Major -62 (No. 1618924)
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>
I have had the same problem and found that scrubbing the brake parts clean and then applying two coats of liquid silicone and letting them dry totally between coats solved the problem. DO NOT get any silicone on the brake surfaces; only the balls and the grooves they move in. The silicone when dry seems to stay slippery without picking up dust and dirt. Hope this helps
Never give up!
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