Introduction and some questions.

[Robbie]

Hi,

I am Rob and live in Holland with my girlfriend and our daughter of 3,5 jears old. We have some horses, dogs, cats and uhhh... sort of rats? (cavia) and in the stables I sometimes spot a mouse. Recently I bought a tractor that has the front of a super major but I guess it has some "home made" fenders. It needs some work to get it running because the previous owner started to install a new starter switch but did not finish this job. I have been working as an electrician for 15 years and later on I I did the instrumentation for a oil company, at the moment I work as a DCS engineer for the same company.

Alltough I dont have any knowledge about a diesel engine, I think I can solve the electrics with the diagrams. But there are two other things that need to be fixed and they are the starter engine (might be defect) and there is oil leaking from the gearbox. ( I think it is the gearbox) This is something I dont know how to fix because it seems to be a leaking gasket and to replace this, the rear wheels will be sepparated from the front and I dont see how I can prevent them from falling to the ground and at the same time make it possible to sepparate them to place a new gasket.

So the questions are, can this be done by a amature or should I take it to a shop?
The 3 point hidge is missing and what would it cost to buy, second hand or new
If the starter engine is unreparable, what would is cost to buy a new one.
I will post a image later on because I dont think I can upload one to this forum.

Any help would be appriciated,
Kind regards,
Rob.

[Brian]

Hi Rob,

Welcome to the board.

First of all, the starter wiring should be sorted out so that you can see if the starter works. New starters are available and, in some cases, people have used starters from the later range of tractors with a slight wiring change.

We would need to know more information about the oil leak, where it is coming from, how bad is it and what colour is the oil.

If you find your way to the Wiki from the site main page, www.fordsontractorpages.nl then use "fordsontractorpages" and "dotty", the codes to get on, you will find an article on identifying your Major. If you post the numbers you find we can confirm what Major you have and this will give us a better idea of where to find the parts you are missing.

You need to get the engine running to find out if you have other problems before getting in too deep.

[Dandy Dave]

Welcome Aboard Matey. I agree with Brian, First order is to give the old Major a tow to see if it runs, and how well if it does. The other problems, you will need to take them as a challenge one at a time. Be sure there is enough oil in the motor, and transmission compartments before trying to pop start it. Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

Here are some pictures:

The tractor:


The switch:


The leaking seal:


Engine number (one of them):


The Front:


The stear, clutch, gear...:


So.. do these tractors have a "glow plug" ? I cannot find the electrics go to the engine and is it possible to start with towing?

Kind regards,
Rob.

[Robbie]

We would need to know more information about the oil leak, where it is coming from, how bad is it and what colour is the oil

The oil looks clear bit darker then beer. It leeks maybe a couple of drops a day so its not to bad but when possible I want to have this fixed. In the picture you can see 3 bolts and it leaks between the left and middle bolt.

I will try to pop start it once I checked the wiring, one thing I did not find yet is the wiring thickness and especialy the one running through the ampmeter (that wire is missing or not going to the ampmeter)

Anyway, thanks for the answers, ill let you know if it will start...

Regards,
Rob.

[Brian]

Rob,
You have what is known here as a Major ASP (All Spare Parts).

The engine is not a tractor engine, it is an industrial 2701E, which someone has shoehorned in. The starter is an industrial one so none of the wiring diagram will apply. You will have to make up your own wiring for this tractor.

The dash panel is home made so we will not know anything about how it is wired.

The engine has a home made frame supporting it which is pushing the front axle further forward than normal and it has a home made support bracket for the axle brace.

The oil leak is from the centre section gasket and will indeed need the tractor split to repair.

The rear axle I would be certain, is from a New Performance Super Major, the engine could be from a truck, combine or one of many applications that they were sold for.

If I am honest, it is not the ideal tractor for someone who has little knowledge of the type. You will find no books or information relating to it, we can and will help all we can, many on this site have done similar modifications and they are very professional and work well. You will find that they have come up against the problems you have and can guide you through.

Post a message on "Ford conversions forum".

The engine you have is a direct injection one, as are all Majors. These engines do not need glow plugs to start.

[Robbie]

If you find your way to the Wiki from the site main page...

Brian,

I did find the wiki but it asks for a name and password, I tried my forum username and password but it wont let me in.

Am I missing something?

Kind regards,
Rob.

[Brian]

I gave you the codes to get in with the link. We have to have a code as people from outside were getting in and altering the information on there. "fordsontractorpages" and "dotty"

[Dandy Dave]

Looks like they did anything they could to keep that old Fordson moving. I do not think the wiring would be too hard to sort though as you don't need that many to make it start, run, and charge. I see that it has an alternator, instead of the original Dyno. Too bad I'm so far away. If I was closer, I could have this thing wired correctly in a few hours. Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

Brian,

I dont know why I missed the info you gave very clearly. One day I was looking for my safetyglases and I could not find them so I asked a colleague if he had seen it, he looked at me for 5 seconds and said, how about right on your nose?. Just then I realised I was wearing it the whole time. Anyway, thanks for answering.

If I was closer, I could have this thing wired correctly in a few hours. Dandy Dave

Dave, for the time beeing I can try to start without electrics but they have to be fixed at a later time, I'll take some detaild pictures of the main components and make a drawing of the wiring how I think it should be conected, maybe you can have a look then?

Right now I dont have the key for the ignition switch, long story but in short, I bought this tractor from a homeless man who rented a caravan somewhere else, he did not pay for the caravan so the owner of the caravan trew him out. He knew I was going to buy this tractor and he told me to buy from him or he would sell to someone else. The homeless friend of me was fine with it (told him later) but I did not wanted to bother him with the key while he was trown out of his "home" and having lots of other shit going on, maybe later i get the key or ill install a new switch.
It has been rewired once and the used 1 color for the wires. Blue!

Regards,
Rob.

[Brian]

I think you are right, it just needs tidying up. The framework looks well done from the pictures and it is a good engine.

I would worry about loosing things though! You are getting like me and I would suspect I can give you 30 years so I have an excuse!

[Dandy Dave]

The switch looks like a common universal switch that can be had in an automotive parts store so the lost key is really not a big deal. Just be careful that you get the wires back on the same way. The back of the switch will be marked. Bat, Ign, St, Acc, These are for, Battery. this wire is always live and most of the time is wired to the battery side of the solenoid. The Ign, is for ignition. If you had a distributor in a petrol/gasoline tractor, this terminal would go to the coil. You have a diesel, so you will not need it. St, is for starter, and goes to the terminal that energizes the solenoid for the starter. Acc is for accessorys. This would be for other things that shut off with the switch. A radio, a heater, Anything except the lights, because they draw too much power and need to be on a separate circut.

The grade School teachers use to tell us, "You would forget your head if it weren't attached!" .. .. Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

Dandy Dave,

Thanks for the description of the switch, it has excact the same codes on it that you describe. I was a bit concerned about the ACC, I had two choises, ACCU or accessory.


this is the starter if I am correct.. and I think if I disconect the wire comming from the switch (take it off from the switch) and connect it to the + of the battery the engine should start, do nothing or something in between.

Am I right or will this create a big boom blasting the safetyglasses of my nose?

Regards,
Rob.

[Dandy Dave]

If you jump the, to switch wire, with the from switch wire, the starter should turn. Be absolutly sure that the tractor shifter is in neutral. Many a farmer has been run down by starting a tractor from the ground while it was in gear. It is ok to test things this way as long as you are sure the tractor is in neutral and cannot roll, but is very bad to do it as common practice. As a minumum, you should have a push button because when the tractor starts you have to stop the starter from turning. Are you aware of the eccesive fuel button on the injection pump? You need to push it in when the engine is cold. Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

Are you aware of the eccesive fuel button on the injection pump? You need to push it in when the engine is cold

Well,

I can only see a valve for speed controll, one on the tank for the fuel, one on a fuel pump that looks like a primer and when you look at the picture below, there is a lever to the right of the 4 fuel lines going to the engine. It has a rusted brown wire on it wich goes to the "dashboard".



One other thing is that I dont know how to stop the engine when it starts. I was hoping this last lever is for stopping the fuel going to the engine.
Otherwise I'll have to block the airinlet to stop it.
I decided to buy a new switch and connect only the basic wires to get it started in a safe way, no running for those big wheels and make a fool out of myself while my girlfriens laughs her pants off.

Thanks for helping out so far!
Rob.

[super6]

Hello robbie,
Welcome to the world of Fordsons, the rusty brown cable is the stop lever and at the fulcrum of this lever is the small cold start button.
I am not sure which way the stop lever should be on this engine, you will have to turn engine over and see if any smoke comes from exhaust, if no smoke, move lever as far as possible in the opposite direction.
Good luck Brett

[Robbie]

Thanks super6,

I can push the button in and when I move stop lever to the front of the tractor it pops out again.

Now I cant wait to try to get it running...

[henk]

Robbie,

I don't know if all the key's are the same, but Brian will know. If so find another major owner and copy the key.
Where are you located?

[Brian]

All keys are the same from Power Major to NP Super but this tractor is not one of those.

The switch fitted is a "key start" switch not a standard Major one so who knows what key is used, they varied in those switches. It is worth a look though, Massey Ferguson used a similar switch with a blade key along with others but the blades, although looking similar were of various width and thickness.

My later Ford keys won't fit an MF or Nuffy and the MF key will not fit Nuffy, Nuffy key will fit an MF yet they all look the same.

A small blade screwdriver works in some.

[Robbie]

Hi,

I bought a switch and connected it to the basic wiring. The battery measured 9V so I had to put my car next to it to get it charged. After a couple of minutes the engine turned slowly for 1 second but did not start.
After that I had to wait for the battery to load again so I could try to start once more, same result. It looks that after a try to start, the battery does not have the power to cranck the engine at full speed and get it started. I think I'll buy a new battery and try again.

Next atempt in a couple of days

Cheers!

[Dandy Dave]

A good battery is a must. These tractors originally came with two six volt batterys. In cold weather you may need the extra amps. I have one 12 volt in my Power Major and it starts easy in the spring, summer, and fall when I use it. I do not use it in the cold winter months. Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

Hi,

Today I installed the new battery and it was able to cranck the engine, white smoke came out of the exhaust but it did not start. We tried to tow it but the the weels just slipped.
When i took a look inside the air inlet I did find something strange (for me) I you take a look at the first picture I posted you can see a tank(?) straight under the airinlet, this was filled with brow oil.

Is that normal? Maybe I have to find someone who does know what he is doing

Any help would be appriciated.
Kind regards,

Rob.

[Gman]

Hi Rob, the air filter is an oil bath filter, it should have oil in it. There is a metal filter also inside the air filter unit. The oil should only be filled to a certain level. The white smoke sounds like unburnt diesel. You may want to bleed the fuel system to make sure enough fuel is getting to the pump, maybe timing is out. Others on here can tell you more than I.
Good luck.

[Robbie]

Pffff...

If it should be a oilbath filter then thats great, I was worried that the oil level of the engine was way to high, or maybe diesel was getting there because it did not burn.

Last year this tractor has been running to chip some wood in our garden and after that i dont think it had any maintanance, so I will check the timing but I think you are on the right track with bleeding. I did bleed the fuel system but only on 3 points, one entering the filter, on the other end where it leaves the filter and were it enters the fuel pump. (on the last picture I posted you can see the fuel pump with the rusted fuel line from the filter, I did bleed on the connector left on the fuel pump)

But then again, I dont know anything about engines except that they should run when I want them to

Regards,
Rob.

[Brian]

Think you may have a job to check the timing on that engine, you have not posted a picture of the injection pump but I am sure it bolts onto the back of the timing cover. If so then you need to remove a plug behind the pump and insert a special tool that fits in a hole in the drive gear.

You may also have to remove the front plate on the timing gear cover and line up marks on the gears.

Not as easy as it is on a Major engine.

You will also need to bleed both of the bleed screws on the pump, one at the front and the one in the picture.