Stop leak

[leeroy]

Should I stay away from using stop leak?
After running her a bit there are some leaks showing up. Oil in coolant also,looks like I may have quite a project going on.Coolant in oil won't always show up on dipstick but will be there when you drain oil from what I've seen recently.Any thoughts?

[Brian]

Oil in coolant = head gasket. Coolant in oil will turn the oil grey and show up in the front breather and on the oil filer cap.

[leeroy]

Is there a point where you can get by with a leaking head gasket such as short runs just moving tractor short distance with no load?

The reason I asked about having coolant in the oil but not having the oil turn oil milky/grey is because I recently had my John Deere ( sorry to bring up JD here-but it is a forestry machine- not a tractor, if that helps!) lose coolant.Topped her- off next day same thing.Oil on dipstick was fine.She was due for oil change and the drain oil was fine until I pulled the second drain plug(the first is a petcock that gets all but a small portion of pan capacity) and got close to a gallon of straight coolant.Have not gotten into this yet to confirm cause.

[Brian]

You would be OK for a short distance or even some light work as long as you do not blow the coolant out or overheat.

John Deere have wet liners like the Major range and as such, are prone to "metal worm" around the lower seals.



You should be using John Deere' special coolant to avoid this or, in Majors and others, at least 50/50 antifreeze and water.

[Dandy Dave]

Are you sure that it is antifreeze in the oil? If the tractor had sat for several years, or more, it could be that there is some condensation build up in the oil pan leading to water when you drain it. If you have changed the oil and filter, I would keep an eye on it for a while to see if you continue to have a problem. Dandy Dave!

[leeroy]

Hi Dandy Dave,
As far as the JD goes-yes it was coolant in the oil.Its a machine I run almost daily.
On the FMD I have not drained oil yet only found what I'm assuming to be oil in the radiator.Concentrated sludge around filler and cap.

[leeroy]

Flushed out radiator but it quickly got sludged up again- I assume this confirms bad head gasket? So I'll have radiator recored and install new head gasket with help from mechanic friend.
Is there anything else that should be done at this time? With the other breakdown on my jd harvester I will not have much$ for a total rebuild. Hoping to keep this to a small bill.
Any advice will be very helpfull!

[JC]

Hi Leeroy
Its most likely a bad head gasket, but it could also be a hole in a cylinder liner.
After you pull the head, you can see where the combustion gases have stained the head gasket, if its bad. Before you install the new gasket, you should have the head checked to see if its still flat, and check to see that the liner protrusion is .002 to .004 above the block.

[Pavel]

Depends how you flushed it. If you power flushed with cold water only, you have buckleys chance of getting all the muck out. You really need a proper rad. cleaner which you run in the system for some hours and it emulsifies the gunk which is then drained out whilst hot. Even so, one dosage is unlikely to return it to pristine condition.
I know it's frowned on, but I once cleaned a particularly grotty system by useing caustic soda in it for 2 days with no adverse effect to pump seals, gaskets or hoses.
Here in Oz we have a cooling system sealant called Bars Leaks which I used successfully for a year to tide me over 'till I could remove the head.
When you do decide to remove it, the head, why not have it planed/skimmed as a matter of course. Plus have the valves and seats re-faced as well. And if you can afford it, have the injectors cleaned and re-calibrated also. The effect is almost as good as having a recon. motor fitted.
Pavel.

[Kim]

Pavel is right about the sealant product BARS LEAKS. It is great stuff and can hold off repairs for a very long time. There is a Bars Leaks with pellets in the bottle and one that is all liquid; I've only used the one with the pellets and can swear by it and no, I don't own stock n the company!

[Dandy Dave]

As Pavel, and Kim has said, We also have Bar's Leaks here in the States, and it is a great product. Many rebuilders back here use it right after they rebuild an engine for insurance against leaks. Several that I know rebuild big diesel truck engines, and one never leaves the shop without a Bars Leak coctail. Dandy Dave!

http://www.barsproducts.com/barsleaks_products.htm

[leeroy]

I looked at Bar's Leaks web-site(Thanks for the link Dandy Dave!)

They also have a head gasket repair and radiator flush in addition to leak sealer. Should I just try all of this instead of doing head gasket? Seems to good to be true.Are there any possible cons to trying this?
As always,Thanks!
Leeroy

[Dandy Dave]

As long as you do not have bubbles comming up in the coolant, which would mean a compression leak from one, or more, of the cylinders. I would give it a good flushing and try the Bars Leaks. It may stop up the oil leak until you have more money to spend on it. Dandy Dave!

[The Swanndri Guy]

Pavel, you might have to explain "Buckleys chance" Maybe some of the members on the forum on the "top side" of the equator might not know what that means. TSG.

[Bensdexta]

Will Bar's leaks work with anti-freeze? I read that it doesn't like the blue coolant, and tends to start leaking again? In UK we have stuff called Radweld, frowned on yet plenty of people inc me use it.

[Pavel]

I guess you're right, TSG. The complete saying we have here is: " you have two chances -- buckleys and none" which, in essence, means: You wont or can't do it, or It wont or will not happen. The phrase came about in the mid 1800s.
Two versions: Buckley was transported to New South Wales in the late 1700s and later escaped. It was considered Buckley had 'no chance' of survival in the Australian bush [but he did - for 30 years]. The other version concerned a bank in NSW named Buckley & Nunn where it was considered you had Buckleys and Nunns chance of getting you money back.
[See also the website www.phrases.org.uk]
I tried Radweld a couple of times when I lived in the UK, but, unlike Bars Leaks, it never did the job - possibly because it was only good for weeps and not leaks. Kim mentions that there are 2 types in the US, but here in Oz it appears to be a mixture of both - fluid and small grains. Apparantly it is the grains that get forced into a hole and there solidify. But it does have a limited lifespan. Even so, it's been a godsend in emergencies.
Pavel