Engine rebuild.

[bobfaecullen]

Hi Mervyn,

I notice in one of your posts that your starter gear is worn. I tracked down a source for these a couple of years back after having a problem with mine, see my post from then

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6884&p=47873#p47873


Hope this is what you're looking for.

Bob

[Mervyn Spencer]

Hi Bob,

I take it you are well. Thank you for the link on the starter pinion for my dexta. I have saved it to my favourites bar for future reference. I should send Wood auto a mail and see how much they cost to deliver to South Africa. I have a friend up the road who is a retired tractor mac who unfortunately is down under at the moment. He still does the odd tractor repairs, I did notice he had a couple of starters in his garage whether he has a swop I don't know. He is back home next month so will give him a call.
Thank you again Bob, take care.
Mervyn.

[Mervyn Spencer]

I did some phoning around this afternoon and it seems that this pinion is not available in South Africa. To import the pinion is beyond my budget with our poor currency. I was offered a new starter motor from Sparex comes with the solenoid on the starter. Does that mean I will have to now find an alternator, or can I retain my dynamo? Having put some thought to the new starter motor it might be the right thing to do, as at times when I did try and start the Dexta with the old starter the leaver sometimes was rather resistant but with further continuous pressure it engaged. What I am saying is to replace the pinion only as my luck goes something else may fail and then have to buy a new starter after all.

[mathias1]

Mervyn,

The starter you describe will need a push button or othe contact instead of the start lever

[Mervyn Spencer]

Yes that's right thanks Mathias, I believe one could use a similar key switch used on the Ford tractors e.g. 2610. Point missed, would it be necessary to fit an alternator rather than the generator if I replaced my old starter with a newer motor?
I chatted to an auto electrical business this morning and he suggested I take my motor in to him to assess if he could do something. Not holding my breath, I still have the option of waiting for my tractor mechanic friend to return from down south.

[mathias1]

Mervyn,
You don't need to change to the alternator way. My major did have this newer starter together with a dynamo when i bought her.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Hi Mathias, that's good news I was a bit concerned. I have not had a chance to see the auto electrician yet, not urgent though. I'm ready to paint my left rear rim tomorrow the one that the tyre guys wrecked for me. My tyre looks like a real hospital case after lining the rubber with plastic and masking tape so it does not get spray painted, I need to get a picture up of the before and after the paint job. Just getting a bit impatient now not been able to take the engine off because of the rear wheel delay.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Patches will be removed in the morning, then wait for synthetic enamel to cure..


Done and dusted.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Wow what an effort to post these pictures.
Once the left back wheel is on then I can progress with my engine removal, please wish me luck.

[mathias1]

Wow what an effort to post these pictures.
Once the left back wheel is on then I can progress with my engine removal, please wish me luck.

fixed your images.
you need to put the links between

Code: Select all

[img][/img]

tags, that's all

[Mervyn Spencer]

Thank you for the advice Mathias and also correcting my mess up. I think I just need some more practise.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Note the front wheel rim, different to your pressed rims. These cast rims were manufactured in South Africa and to my knowledge have been fitted to most Dextas in South Africa. I'd say they weigh in at between 30 and 40 kgs. Very difficult to fit onto the stub axle on your own.

[mathias1]

Mervyn,

I think you did a wonderfull paint job. I'm not that good at it.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Thank you Mathias, may look good from the photo but its not perfect.

I'm nearly there with posting my photos, just not able to get the photo to enlarge when you click on it.

[mathias1]

Thank you Mathias, may look good from the photo but its not perfect.

I'm nearly there with posting my photos, just not able to get the photo to enlarge when you click on it.

i'm always using the hotlink for forums on postimage, just copy the complete line, and you're done.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Now that works well Mathias thank you, viewed it on Preview then deleted image.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Hi Folk,
After fitting my rear wheels I decided it was time to start with the stripping of the front wheels and axle to enable me to get to the timing gears. I spent Thursday removing the front wheels, disassembled the front axle and support assembly leaving me with the timing gears and housing to remove. Sorry I missed a point where I jacked up the front end and supported it with some wooden blocks( thanks for the idea Charlie ) preparing for the big engine tear down. Today I spent most of the day removing the pulley, timing gear cover and gears. What I battled with and still not got it off is the idler gear hub. The workshop manual directs you how to remove the gears and goes on to say then remove the idler gear hub. They don't mention how difficult it is though, I imagined it would just literally come off with a slight pull, well after applying various penetrating oils then petrol and tapping with a rubber mallet I was able to get it to move about 2mm continuing to spray penetrating oil. To add, the oily grime in the housing is also about 2mm thick . So that is where I am now.
Folk, where am I going wrong? please help. Initially I was rather concerned about stripping the engine especially the timing gear area as it is a first for me, but after chatting to the motor engineer who is going to rebuild the engine, he only requires the block including the crankshaft and pistons, so I decided to bite the bullet and got cracking with the stripping as explained above. Can't wait for the engine to be rebuilt, in fact I was hoping to get the block etc. into the engineers on Tuesday next week, but now with that damn hub I am stumped

Mervyn.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Hi I'm back,

I've been watching some You Tube videos on MF 135 and 231 engine restorations, especially taking note of the procedure of removing the timing gear idler gear which is exactly the same as with the Dexta as they are basically the same P3 engine. In both cases the idler hub was not removed before the timing gear housing was removed. I also noticed that there are two bolts at the front of the sump of these MF tractors that need to be removed as these bolts screw into to the bottom of the timing gear housing, this is not mentioned in the workshop manual. However when I removed all but two of the bolts securing the sump of the Dexta leaving one at alternate ends as a temp situation until I have to remove the sump. I know the sump is heavy and awkward(oil drained) so I will hopefully be able to remove the timing gear housing and hub. I hope I have not bored anyone but this may be an important point in my opinion.

Mervyn.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Sorry about the individual pics, I would like to add some quotes but my knowledge is limited with this Postimage program.
Mervyn.






Edit:
Mervyn,
I fixed your pictures:

[Old Hywel]

Are those dabs of paint the only timing marks? I would have expected existing punch marks, or similar.

[Mervyn Spencer]

The white marks are there to highlight the punch marks. I deliberately did that to distinguish them from the red paint marks. I have no idea what the red paint represents. With the white marks/punch marks lined up as illustrated in one of the pics my number one piston is flush with the top of the block.

[Mervyn Spencer]

With regards my pictures I posted yesterday the first one of the timing cover where I marked the bolt sizes as a reminder for me. The second shows a steak of red paint from the centre of the camshaft through to the idler gear. I am not sure what it represents. The third pic shows my timing marks which I put a dab of tipex on so it would show up nicely on the pic. The forth pic shows my major oil leak due to the rope seal not been fitted correctly and lastly to show how much grime had collected over a period of 56 years, disgusting.

This morning I must say I learnt a lot, for example the timing housing what a battle, after finding that one dreaded bolt going through the sump into the bottom of the housing. Once I had removed that bolt it was still a battle to get it loose from the block. Low and behold the cover still did not want to come off as the bottom section of the housing that has the weep holes is bolted to the main housing. It was then established that the sump has to come off before any further progress removing the housing can be achieved. Anyway that area has been taken care of.

Finally the oil pump, that was rather simple, so now all I must do now is remove the adaptor plate and engine, hopefully this afternoon. I'm a bit concerned how to safely secure my engine crane to the engine as once the engine comes loose the flywheel weight is going to drop lower because of the weight

To the secret member who sorted out my pictures a big thank you . Is it also possible to please remove those I think they are called links.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Hi me again,
Has anyone used one of those Chinese engine stands?

[mathias1]

Hi me again,
Has anyone used one of those Chinese engine stands?

Mervyn,

I'm using this one:
https://static.mijnwebwinkel.nl/winkel/ ... 30339e.jpg

Had to made a second adapter plate, as the one it comes with was too small.
It works for the major, although when the engine is still complete it's really heavy to turn and move.

[Jerry Coles]

I used an engine stand from Machine Mart for £78.00. Holds my Dexta engine no problem.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ces450-450kg-engine-stand/
Easily dismantles for storage.