Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

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Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby etfig » Thu Oct 10, 2019 1:52 am

Thanks for the add.

I just purchased a very used new major, serial number 138...which puts it at '56. I'm an EE by trade, working primarily on radio towers, and to decompress from the stupidity of technology I have a horse farm and have rebuilt a couple of gravely walk behind tractors. Finally, after clearing land by hand, I bought a tractor

The second I got it in the driveway, the starter failed on me. That's in the mail, it was actually completely rusted and shredded inside. I gave up looking online and ordered a service manual for this, I'm supposed to receive it next week. So I apologize if this will answer questions that I'm asking now.

Attached is a link of a few pictures of things I looked at and said "what in the hell is this?!"

http://imgur.com/a/net9jZJ

Picture 01, right below that yellow can to the top left, there's some sort of nozzle. This is on the left hand side roughly greenest the manifold.

Picture 02, the lever sticking straight up on the inboard of the clutch. What is this for?

Picture 03, the lever sticking straight up that looks like a T-wrench, what's that do?

Picture 04, the item that appears sheared of, is located on the right side in front of the fuel pump. What does it do?

Picture 05, there's something obviously missing here. I'm assuming I shouldn't see a gear from the outside of the tractor...

The guy I got it from said the 3 point will kind of slowly drop down on its own. Is this the "draft" being engaged on the pto? Does this tractor even have that?
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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby Pavel » Thu Oct 10, 2019 8:41 am

Welcome to the very helpful and insightful Fordson pages, etfig. What part of the world are you at?

Pic 1 looks like a coolant drain tap for the block. [Other experts will clarify].
Pic 2 is the engagement lever for a belt drive -- if you have one.
Pic 3 is the lever that, by twisting it, locks the brake in the 'on' position [un-twist to release]
Pic 4 -- no idea!
Pic 5 shows the teeth of the flywheel ring gear which, somewhere on its circumference, have the timing marks. The screw hole on the right is for a screw to hold a cover in place.

Others will either confirm or correct my observations.
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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby mathias1 » Thu Oct 10, 2019 11:44 am

Pavel wrote:Welcome to the very helpful and insightful Fordson pages, etfig. What part of the world are you at?

Pic 1 looks like a coolant drain tap for the block. [Other experts will clarify].
Pic 2 is the engagement lever for a belt drive -- if you have one.
Pic 3 is the lever that, by twisting it, locks the brake in the 'on' position [un-twist to release]
Pic 4 -- no idea!
Pic 5 shows the teeth of the flywheel ring gear which, somewhere on its circumference, have the timing marks. The screw hole on the right is for a screw to hold a cover in place.

Others will either confirm or correct my observations.
Pavel

Hi welcome,
1 will drain coolant from the engine block
2 to engage the pto and hydraulics, not the belt drive
3 like Pavel says
4 tacho drive, looks like the cable is missing
5 loke Pavel says, maybe you can make a cover for it to keep the dirt out.

Before doing some work on the tractor i suggest you to clean it with a pressure washer
Good luck
Fordson Super Major New Performance
County Super 4 built on the Fordson Super Major
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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby etfig » Thu Oct 10, 2019 12:30 pm

Pavel wrote:Welcome to the very helpful and insightful Fordson pages, etfig. What part of the world are you at?

Pic 1 looks like a coolant drain tap for the block. [Other experts will clarify].
Pic 2 is the engagement lever for a belt drive -- if you have one.
Pic 3 is the lever that, by twisting it, locks the brake in the 'on' position [un-twist to release]
Pic 4 -- no idea!
Pic 5 shows the teeth of the flywheel ring gear which, somewhere on its circumference, have the timing marks. The screw hole on the right is for a screw to hold a cover in place.

Others will either confirm or correct my observations.
Pavel



I'm in Cleveland, Ohio in the good ol USA.

I completely plan on a good cleaning. I need to stat replacing some gaskets, there's lots of leaking.

There is a lever thats over the PTO, within arm's reach of the driver while in the seat. I saw that as the engager for the PTO. Do both levers do the same thing? Or did I see them engage it differently?

For the lever that engages the breaks, do you have to press the brakes down to allow that to engage first?

It's good to know this did have atach, hopefully the manual shows where that was placed. Id live to get this so it's not so rough to look at and runs even better

Is there any reason that hole where you can see the flywheel, why that hole is there? Is that where you attempt timing off of.
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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby Pavel » Thu Oct 10, 2019 3:04 pm

Yep; you have to press the brake pedals first in order to apply them as a parking brake then use the 'T' piece handle to keep them locked on.

You may/will find the following web site of use.It is in Swedish so you may have to use the translation menu.

www.fordsontractorpages.nl/ubb/Forum4/HTML/001080.html

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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby oehrick » Thu Oct 10, 2019 6:43 pm

If you reach behind the seat for the PTO control you mention, you probably have a 'raised PTO' which was an extra (and now quite desirable) fitment, the lever by the clutch pedal engages via a dog clutch, the drive shaft to the hydraulic pump and original, lower level, PTO, a raised PTO takes its power from this shaft.

Yellow paint in the UK tends to indicate built as an industrial / construction model, usually by another maker who bought a skid unit (wheel-less tractor) or 'vanilla' tractor for modification.
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes
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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby etfig » Thu Oct 10, 2019 9:57 pm

oehrick wrote:If you reach behind the seat for the PTO control you mention, you probably have a 'raised PTO' which was an extra (and now quite desirable) fitment, the lever by the clutch pedal engages via a dog clutch, the drive shaft to the hydraulic pump and original, lower level, PTO, a raised PTO takes its power from this shaft.

Yellow paint in the UK tends to indicate built as an industrial / construction model, usually by another maker who bought a skid unit (wheel-less tractor) or 'vanilla' tractor for modification.



I have gone fall through the archives on this site and saw about the raised pto, thanks for explaining that!


My starter came in today, I'm going to installing it shortly. I'm the meantime, the gentleman that sold me this showed me a lever on the right side of the engine that allegedly alleviated the compression for easier starting in the winter. Does that mean you activate it, start it, then get back down and disengage that lever while it's on? Or do you warn the tractor up, turn the tractor off, and then disengage that lever?
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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby blackbob » Fri Oct 11, 2019 12:45 am

The latch to hold down the brake pedal, is the only 'parking' brake you have, as you don't appear to have a UK-spec handbrake lever. I have seen from my (USA published) I&T 'shop' manual that all tractors have the brake discs fitted inside the transmission, but not all have the lever/ratchet fitted to utilise them.
And the latch only works on the left=side pedal. there should be a pivoting lever which you can flip over to lock the pedals together (supposedly safer when using the tractor at speed: avoids the possibility of you pressing only one pedal instead of two) but yours is missing. Personally I don't use mine anyway, it needs the brakes to be perfectly adjusted/balanced.

You also don't have footplates, they aren't essential but I would think they would make the tractor more comfortable to drive. especially for long periods. They are available new, not expensive.

One of your photos shows where the tachometer drive cable attaches to the engine, the tachometer itself should be mounted beside the throttle lever, if it's there it's not visible in your photos. My one doesn't work and I'm kinda thinking about maybe getting a new one some day, it's really only needed to allow you to operate pto-driven machines at the correct speed.

And you asked about the 3-point lift dropping slowly, this shouldn't happen but it will only be a seal somewhere leaking, again not expensive if you decide to fix it. If the tractor's a '56 it won't have any form of draft control, the hydraulics are simple up - hold - down.

We don't usually have decompression levers on tractors in the UK, they are fitted on small hand-start diesel engines in cement mixers, dumpers etc, the lever holds open one of the valves so that you can crank the engine easily. So, to start an engine, you move the lever [with your left hand], crank the engine with the starting handle with your right hand, when you're turning it as fast as you can then flick the lever over and the engine should fire. If it doesn't start, you may not have the stamina to continue cranking for long. I have never used a decompression lever on an engine in conjunction with a starter-motor, although our Ferguson tractor had one.if I can find its instruction book I'll see what it says about it. And the Field Marshall tractor has a decompressor too, worked by a little wheel running on a groove on the flywheel so you don't need a hand to operate it, Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB7cgTxLtlY at about 1.17 you see a rod move at the front of the engine and it suddenly fires. I have done this - when I was young and fit..



Okay etfig, we are ready for your next question(s)! :D
1440276 - 1957 - working
1335674 - err - one day..
Claeys combine M103 - 1963 703129 - working
Ford 7710 2wd, 1983 - working

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Re: Intro and the beginning of an onslaught of questions

Postby henk » Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:15 pm

:yikes: WORNING!!!!!!!!!! :yikes:
Do not rase the decompression lever when starting. This could damage you valves.
It's only used to turn the engine by hand.
For cold start theres a button on the fuelpump.
Kind regards, Henk

Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
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