"Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the "Basic Part Number". If you look in a parts book for the crankshaft of a 1969 Boss 427 Mustang, the "Basic Part Number" is the same as the crankshaft for your tractor. What identifies the part from other crankshafts is the Prefix and the Suffix. So, as the crankshaft in a Fordson Super Major Diesel is the same as the gas or kero engine, all parts that are common to all three will have the prefix "E1ADN". If the part is diesel specific it will have the prefix "E1ADDN". The suffix is the revision. A number that goes "E1ADDN 12345 B" would be the second revision. The prefix’s are country specific. In the US, the prefix tells you the year, model and type. E.g. D1ZZ 1234 A would be a part from a 1971 performance car. A=1940, B=1950 etc. 1=first year of decade, Z = performance. Truck parts =T, US tractors I am not sure of, but I think it is the same as the UK =N. E1ADDN = England, 1=1951, AD= model, D=Diesel, N= Tractor. Now, there are some parts that do not fit the "Basic Part Number" scheme. These parts are numbered in numerical order with prefixes and suffixes that denote country of origin, group (engine, gearbox etc) and vehicle type. This information is useful when you are searching obsolete parts and often you can find parts from other applications. Also note, the Fordson engine was used in trucks. The piston rings that you buy from New Holland will have the prefix 510E, this is the six cylinder version of the truck engine and it got a Truck prefix instead of a tractor, but it was used in the tractors and replaced a previous part number that would have had the E1ADDN prefix."

Recommended Oil Viscosities S.A.E.
Source: Tractor Operators Manual, Ford Service letters. Ford published workshop manuals.

Major (all models) 1952 to December 1959

Engine: Petrol.
• Summer - 30W
• Winter - 20W
• Above 90 degrees F - 40 W
• Below 20 degree F – 10W
  Transmission / Rear Axle
  
• Year-round in mild climates - 90W
• Above 90 degrees F - 140W
• Below 10 degrees F – 80W
• Below –10 degrees F – 80W Mild E.P. + 10% Kerosene

Engine: Petrol/Kerosene (TVO)
• Summer – 40W
• Winter – 30W
• Above 90 degrees F – 50W
• Below 20 degrees F – 20W
  Transmission / Rear Axle
  
• Year-round in mild climates – 90W
• Above 90 degrees F - 140W
• Below 10 degrees F – 80W.
• Below –10 degrees F – 80W Mild E.P. + 10% Kerosene

Engine: Diesel
• Summer – HD 30
• Winter – HD 20
• Above 90 degrees F – HD 40W
• Below 20 degrees F – 10W
  Transmission / Rear Axle
  
• Year-round in mild climates – 90W
• Above 90 degrees F -140W
• Below 10 degrees F – 80W
• Below –10 degrees F – 80W Mild E.P. + 10% Kerosene

Major (all models) January 1959 to 1964

• Transmission / Rear Axle – S.A.E.20/30W

Note: HD = Detergent oil for diesel engines. Petrol or Petrol/Kerosene engines can use this oil if they have been using it from new or have been overhauled and/or been internally cleaned. To change to this oil without cleaning the engine internally may block filtration system.

Quote from Fordson Service Supplement. July 1959. Para 2, page 1.

“It is important to note that the hydraulic unit uses the rear transmission lubricant, the specification of which was changed in January 1959 to S.A.E. 20/30W for ALL Major (1952 onwards) tractors.
Oil Specifications:
Above 20 degrees F (-7 degrees C) - HD 30
Below 20 degrees F (- 7 degrees C) - HD 20
Or - HD20/30W (Multipurpose).”

Brian’s comment: This was to allow the use of one oil through the engine/transmission/rear axle and to enable the use of small valves and porting in the later Super and Dexta hydraulics. The 90W oil would not allow a fast flow through the filters and oil galleries used in these lifts.

Capacities for Major

• Engine: 12 imp. Pints (6.816 litres) plus 2 pints (1.136 litres) for dry filter
• Gearbox: 4.5 imp gallons (20.43 litres) (with or without PTO)
• Rear Axle: 9.1 imp. Gallons (40.9 litres)

Fuel for Major
Brian’s comment: These are only my thoughts and what I run my own tractors on.

• Petrol: LRP petrol or lead free petrol with supplement
• Kerosene: either 50% LRP + 50% diesel or 90% central heating kerosene (28 second) + 5% LRP + 5% diesel
• Diesel: Low sulphur road diesel or agricultural (red) diesel.

Dexta (all models) 1957 to 1964

Engine: Diesel
• Below 20 degrees F ( -6.6 degrees C) – HD10W
• 20 to 90 degrees F (6.6 to 32.2 degrees C) – HD20W
• Above 90 degrees F (32.2 degrees C) – HD30W
  Transmission / Rear axle / Hydraulics:
  
• Year-round - EP 80W or S.A.E. 20/30W

Brian’s comment: In the dealerships where I worked the standard oil we sold for the complete range was Castrol Multiuse S.A.E. 20/30W. This oil covered all Fordson tractors and most of the requirements on Ferguson and Massey Ferguson, Nuffield, David Brown. Whilst I do not have the books for all these, I do have them for the Nuffield range from 1960 onwards and 20/30W is the oil in the transmission on these tractors. Castrol recommended Multiuse S.A.E. 20/30W for all Fordson engines in the ranges covered eg. Major, Super Major, Dexta, Super Dexta.

Rust removal by electrolysis

Electrolysis is a method of removing rust from parts, with little effort. The advantage over traditional acid dipping, wire brushing or sandblasting is that the rust is converted back into iron instead of being removed from the piece. For this reason this method is often used by restorers of antique tools.

Note: The following instructions are compiled from a number of sources.

Items needed
• Washing soda (baking soda is a less efficient, suitable alternative).
• Water.
• A container large enough for the parts you will be cleaning. It must be plastic or some other non-conductive material.
• A car battery trickle-charger (capable of delivering at least 5 amps and preferably with an inbuilt current meter).
• Electrode – This will gradually get ‘eaten away’. Stainless steel is best or any piece of clean iron. The bigger the surface area, the more efficient the process. Make it large enough to protrude from the container so the lead from the battery charger can be connected to it without entering the mixture.
• Plastic pan cleaner pads (Scotchbrite or similar) not wire wool.
• Rubber gloves (yellow is soooo pretty).
• Safety glasses (so you don’t splash into your eyes).

Method
1. Mix water and washing soda in the container. The ratio is approximately 20 litres of water to 1/2 cup of washing soda, or a tablespoon per 4 litres. Mix until the washing soda is dissolved.
2. Place electrode into container. Clean it if it is rusty so good electrical contact can be made. Experiment with the distance between this and the part to be cleaned, to get best performance but, THE ELECTRODE MUST NEVER BE ALLOWED TO TOUCH THE PART BEING CLEANED.
3. Suspend the part to be cleaned in the container so it does not touch the electrodes or the bottom of the tank. (E.g. tie a piece of string to it and a length of rod over the container).
4. Attach the battery charger NEGATIVE terminal to the part that is to be cleaned. If you connect the terminals backwards, the part you are trying to clean will be ‘eaten away’.
5. Attach the battery charger POSITIVE terminal to the stainless steel or iron electrode.
6. Double-check that the part and the electrode are not touching.
7. Turn on the charger and check that current is flowing. Wait and check progress at intervals. It may help to clean the part occasionally, with the pan cleaner, to help the process - you may see the current decrease when this is necessary. Bubbles of hydrogen and oxygen will rise from the piece, so keep in a well ventilated area.

Additional Notes
• Remove loose rust first, with the pan cleaner or a wire brush.
• The process takes ‘shortest distance’ so you may need to turn the part, to clean the other side.
• The electrodes will eventually wear down and require replacement.
• Hollow parts may need an electrode suspended inside them but, THE PART BEING CLEANED AND THE ELECTRODE MUST NEVER TOUCH, as this will short-circuit the battery charger. A good safety measure would be to fit a fuse in-line with one of the terminals, of double the normal charging capacity of the battery charger.
• Don't try and use a car battery in place of the charger, as it's the current flow rather than the voltage that is important. A car battery will short-circuit and may explode or be destroyed in this circuit.
• Use adequate ventilation or do the process outside, since it produces highly explosive hydrogen and pure oxygen gas.
• The process can be scaled up to any size that you can manage – the only limit is the size of your non-conductive container.
• The solution can be reused many times, any waste solution should be safe to dispose of in a household drain (it’s only water and washing soda), as long as the original part was fairly clean.
• The process will leave a black surface that can be cleaned using the pan cleaner.
• Spray the cleaned part with WD40 as it will start to rust again after a very short time.
• Do not use non-ferrous metals or galvanised parts in the process.
• If the surface was damaged or pitted by rust, this damage will not be reversed. It only converts, not replaces what is already missing.
• Don’t forget to wear the rubber gloves and safety glasses.