posted March 10, 2006 19:52               

After I have removed the front wheels and cleaned the axel and bearings, I noticed the bearing places on the axel was worn, because the bearing had turn with the wheels. Is there a way of repairing this damage? I consider welding and then machining on the turning machine, but welding means heat and that means tensions. I could make it smaller in diameter and put bushes over the machined place, but it makes the axel less strong. Maybe there’s another way to repair this in an easy way. Any help will be appreciated.

posted March 10, 2006 23:42               

When the bearing location on your axles are worn, I assume your whole axle is quite worn.

IMHO repairing something like that is quite a time consuming job, and unless you can do the welding and turning down yourself, the labour will cost you more than replace the spindles with new ones, or used ones.

Then you have good bearing faces, a good thread for the locknut to adjust your bearings and a circular king pin off the correct diameter for the spindle bushings.
Off course the splines will be new, and normally they arent very good on used tractors.

posted March 11, 2006 08:55               

Think you might have to ask around in your area.

posted March 12, 2006 15:34               

Emiel, New axels are easy to become. But my goal is to use as much original parts from the tractor as I can. Bay the way, do you know how much these axels cost?
Brian. I was thinking of a way to bring up a small chrome layer. At the shipyard I use to work was this done with special equipment. Unfortunately they don’t do it anymore. I assume you mean that sort of job. I think this can not me done by my self but it's a specialist job.

posted March 12, 2006 17:28               

I never bought these spindles new, but I thought they were around 100 euro at HPS, but I'm not sure.

Problem with applying chrome is that the ovality off the axle stub will stay in tact, and chrome might be not very suited to be machined to the correct size.

Then turning the actual axle down, and glue or shrinks new bearing faces on, ie, bushes made on the lathe.

posted March 12, 2006 19:06               

There are more options for the home shop that are a decent fix but will not return it to original, but will be a good working solution.
1. Is just use shim stock and bearing lock tite to install the bearing tight. Find the flat or the low spot to put the shim at

2. Is the use of center punch marks all around the register to raise the metal a little then it will fit tight, use loctite on installation. This will only work if the register is soft enough to admit a mark, just do lots of small marks. Also if you can get this in a lathe between centers you can raise the size just by using the knurling tool.

3. Is the use of a new high strength bronze rod, sorry I just cant recall the name of the stuff I have used. But when heated with a torch it will flow like water. I have used this stuff many times for build up of pistons of Hyd cylinders and bearing registers. It is expensive the last I bought in 99 cost $14.00 lb in USA. It bonds easily, doesn't require a lot of heat and machines well I have machines this stuff down to .003 in of the original surface. When finished welding this stuff while your part is still hot bury in wood ash or cement powder for slow cooling. This may be for 12-24 hrs.

4. There is the fully machined shim, these are usually limited to the lower limit of .003 in for 1in and lower and additional .002 in per in of diam. made from a high alloy of 4140 or such. Applied to work with loctite and shrink fit.

5. Then there is just the plain old weld it up using MiG here no stick will do a clean enough job. But this only can be done if the spindle has not been hardened. You can weld if you cool in ash or cement to reduce stress, you can even just normalize it after that by reheating with a large heat source and slow cooling in still air.

Hope that helps

NOTE: normalizing can be done in a regular home oven. Just put it to the highest setting usually this is about 500 deg F* some may even go to 575* just remember, this will be long time 12 hrs or so. The lower the temp the longer the time.

posted March 12, 2006 22:30               

Old 20 list the Major spindles (king pin) at nearly £100 each.

posted March 12, 2006 22:34               

Second the upper limits of chrome surface application is .010 inch.
The process I'm taking about is spraying Chrome on high temperature at the surface. You can do it up to more than a millimetre. Problem is the material is very hard. You can only grind it.

3. Is the use of a new high strength bronze rod, sorry I just cant recall the name of the stuff I have used.

Seems the right stuff for me. Please can you found out the name or brand of it?

posted March 13, 2006 06:36               

PS: Chrome metspay is not used for bearing buildup. Electro plateing indrustrial Hard chome is used for bearing stuff. If you do a spray or powder aplication use steel or bronze.
Chrome spray is used for inside pumps and hi corossion aplications. As It does not bond well.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Henk:
Hello TMac,
Second the upper limits of chrome surface application is .010 inch.
The process I'm taking about is spraying Chrome on high temperature at the surface. You can do it up to more than a millimetre. Problem is the material is very hard. You can only grind it.

3. Is the use of a new high strength bronze rod, sorry I just cant recall the name of the stuff I have used.

Seems the right stuff for me. Please can you found out the name or brand of it?

Regards Henk

---

posted March 27, 2006 20:30               

After a lot of thoughts I decided to buy new axles. They costs me 96 euros (excl tax) each. Last Friday I wanted to place them. After I put the bearing bushes in place and make them the right diameter. (in Dutch we called it “ruimen”) I discovered that the length of the axle pin was about 10 mm to long. I remembered seen on internet sites that there are different lengths. At Sparex it’s 190 mm, at Bareco 200 mm and at Bepco 197 mm. Mine were 200 mm and I need 190 mm.
Now I wonder why there are different lengths. Anyone has an answer.

Regards Henk

posted March 31, 2006 20:38               

Today I wanted to see what to do with the 10 mm longer front axle. Found out that the spline, on top of it, on the steeringlink side is not fitting. Has anyone had the same problems?

posted April 01, 2006 10:49               

Think I would take them back to where you got them and complain! Take yours along as a pattern. There were only one stub axle design for the Major (Right and Left) so there is no reason for differences. Unless they are for the E27N which I cannot comment on as I have no experience.

posted April 03, 2006 21:56               

Regards Henk

posted April 03, 2006 23:07               

According to the manual the spindles for E27N and E1ADKN are completely identical.

My advise is to try old20 in the Netherlands, or HPS, I'm quite sure they have the good ones.

posted April 04, 2006 00:04               

They came from Hps. Where can I find Old20 Netherlands? There's no site of it.

Regards
Henk

posted April 04, 2006 10:52               

Please mail me and I give you the details!

posted April 04, 2006 14:09               

Have you any more history to the "Farm" Major yet?

posted April 04, 2006 14:33               

The part numbers you quote Brian are used for the @e7N as well.

The design changes for the kingpins during E27N were that the bearing diameters for the wheels have changed a couple of times and the thread diameter for the castelated nut/nut with clamp bolt.

The lenght and diamteter off the spindles in the axles should be identical, the bushes in the axle and the (adjustable) front axle have the same part numbers untill the intorduction off the Super Major, when a lubricated mounting for the axle to the tractor was introduced.

posted April 15, 2006 23:14               

I'm almost done with the axle repair. Thanks Emiel for the help. They fitted excellent.
Also almost done with my new site. Just the guest book is to be made. http://people.zeelandnet.nl/hmdetroije/
Check it out, and please let me know what you think about it.

Regards Henk

posted April 26, 2006 23:06               

My Major is back together again. After 7 weeks, I made a test ride yesterday. The new axles are working good. Runs like a Deere. (oeps slip of the pen) Runs smoothly. A lot of thinks had been fixed. New side lamps, a trailer contact, regulator and dashboard. Oil seals and new axle and bushing on the brake and clutch axle and of course the front axle completely rebuild and painted. After a wash and a painted exhaust she looks great. This evening I drove the Major to it’s new parking place, and Saturday 6 May I’m going the join in a road run. So let the fun begin.
This week I shall put some new pictures on the site and the photo album.
Thank to everyone who helped me out whit the problems.
http://people.zeelandnet.nl/hmdetroije/