Author
|
Topic: Radiator removal
|
ivin True Blue Posts: 101 From: Warwicks, UK Registered: Sep 2005
|
posted September 20, 2006 19:52
After a summer of overheating problems I'm trying to remove the radiator to check it out. The two radiator securing bolts are turning freely and I can't see how to hold them to undo the nuts. They look a bit rusty and painted over. They are obviously not original bolts, I am tempted to get the angle grinder on them.I assume that I can replace them once I get the radiator off? Advice would be appreciated. The plus point for the day been finding a label on the radiator saying what looks like "Preston Radiator Services Ltd." its the first indication as to where my old girl has spent her life. Chris ------------------
IP: Logged |
tony True Blue Posts: 136 From: carrollton, ga Registered: Sep 2003
|
posted September 21, 2006 00:44
If you’re talking about the two bolts underneath the radiator; they are carriage bolts that are probably corroded and not being held captive any longer. I have had to cut a few heads off and then replace them. The heads fit into a slot underneath the radiator. Visit Stephen’s site and down load the parts breakdown prints. You’ll understand what I’m talking about after looking at the exploded view.IP: Logged |
ivin True Blue Posts: 101 From: Warwicks, UK Registered: Sep 2005
|
posted September 22, 2006 08:02
Hi Tony,Thanks for the info it was very helpful. Radiator now cleaned inside and out, we'll see if that makes any difference to my overheating problems. I managed to get quite a bit of rust particles out so fingers crossed. Radiator now fixed with new bolts so should be easier to remove in the future. Chris ------------------
IP: Logged |
tony True Blue Posts: 136 From: carrollton, ga Registered: Sep 2003
|
posted September 23, 2006 14:30
chris, Glad I could help. Mine runs hot too when I work her hard. I’ve tried to figure out why, but I’m stumped. I installed a shroud, cleaned the radiator out, and replaced the radiator with another one I found in a junk yard, took out the thermostat and still doesn’t do it. It might be because of the rebuild kit I used was for a 152 instead of a 144. Somehow I doubt that’s it but who knows? Brian suggests getting another fan blade and bolting it on so you have four blades instead of two drawing air through the core. That’s the next thing I’m going to try. If that doesn’t work, I’m going to mount an electric fan with a switch that I can turn on when needed. TonyIP: Logged |
Aldo True Blue Posts: 6 From: Victoria, Australia Registered: Aug 2006
|
posted September 24, 2006 16:20
Thanks for tip Tony, the electric fan idea sounds like a good idea. I've tried everything you mentioned, and got a 4 bladed fan. Still runs hot after a hour or so of heavy grass slashing in hot weather. I cool it down with water on the radiator, which gives me another hour of running, before it starts to get too hot again. Makes me think a larger capacity radiator might solve the problem,if I can find one that fits, otherwise don't what else to do.IP: Logged |
ivin True Blue Posts: 101 From: Warwicks, UK Registered: Sep 2005
|
posted September 24, 2006 22:48
Tried to test her out today after cleaning the radiator. She was running a good 25F cooler, on light work the temperature guage is only just registering, might even put the thermostat back in!As I mentioned previously there were bits of rust in the system which was probably part of the problem also although the radiator cooling fins superficially looked clean (previous owner had painted the rad) in fact there was quite a bit gunk buried deep in the cooling fins. blasting this out probably helped a lot. Hope you guys manage to sort out your overheating problems. Chris IP: Logged |
Paul True Blue Posts: 83 From: Queensland, Australia Registered: Oct 2002
|
posted September 25, 2006 02:05
It may also help to give the engine block a good flush with a caustic solution to make sure you have the proper fluid capacity throughout the block an no restrictions to the flow. Brian may be able to suggest an appropriate solution to flush the block with. My old girl had a huge amount of "gunk" in the block.IP: Logged |
Tubal Cain True Blue Posts: 126 From: Pembrokeshire, West Wales, UK Registered: Sep 2006
|
posted September 25, 2006 10:20
Hi,There are descalers available for flushing cooling systems from Halfords and good Motor Factors. I am making enquiries to scource a suitable product from a supplier of Indutrial Chemicals and will keep you posted. However before you use a descaler I would make sure that the copper/brass backing plate fitted between the water pump and the timing cover has not been removed. I have come across a couple of Dextas where this plate has been removed resulting in severe corrosion/erosion of the aluminium timing cover which eventually could allow water to enter the engine! Regards. Gerald
IP: Logged |
Tubal Cain True Blue Posts: 126 From: Pembrokeshire, West Wales, UK Registered: Sep 2006
|
posted October 10, 2006 17:38
Just to follow on from my previous posting, I have just removed the water pump from another 1964 Super Dexta engine and the picture attached illustrates what I found. The rust coloured ring is caused by severe erosion/corrosion of the timing cover. The parts book definitely shows a backing plate, which was "fitted from 1958 to 1964". I am beginning to wonder if the plates were omitted at the works or at some later date when the punp was removed for overhaul or renewal!I have refitted the pump with a brass backing plate, the plate is made of brass sheet 0.029" thick and approximately 4" x 5" Gerald IP: Logged |
Mervyn Spencer True Blue Posts: 153 From: Pietermaritzburg, Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa Registered: Apr 2005
|
posted October 10, 2006 21:35
Hi Gerald and othersI experienced the same thing when I removed my water pump from the timing gear cover. At the moment I have a bakerlite backing plate which I don't feel too comfortable with, I feel it may not be as robust as the brass or other metal plate. Can someone put some light on the options please? Regards Mervyn IP: Logged |
Tubal Cain True Blue Posts: 126 From: Pembrokeshire, West Wales, UK Registered: Sep 2006
|
posted October 16, 2006 15:23
Hi Mervyn,It would appear that your appeal is in vain. So I consider that the only course of action is as our American cousins would say "C. Y. A.", play safe, fit a 22 gauge brass plate behind the pump and add a corrosion inhibitor or antifreeze to the cooling system. The brass plate which I removed from my 1960 Dexta revealed that the pump impeller had at some time been in contact with the plate, however the timing cover was unmarked! If this should happen with your bakelite plate, which isn't as robust as brass, it is possible that it would damage it. Regards Gerald. IP: Logged |
Mervyn Spencer True Blue Posts: 153 From: Pietermaritzburg, Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa Registered: Apr 2005
|
posted October 16, 2006 17:51
Hi Gerald Thank you for getting back to me with a positve option. I must admit it was something I was going to look into when I strip my engine down to overhaul. I think the fact that I did not get a response is that my question was raised under the incorrect topic. Regards Mervyn IP: Logged |
Tubal Cain True Blue Posts: 126 From: Pembrokeshire, West Wales, UK Registered: Sep 2006
|
posted October 16, 2006 21:46
Mervyn,You may well be correct in your assumption, which means I am also at fault in that I assume that the majority of members on this site review all new postings. Gerald. IP: Logged |