The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Seems you are a bussy man.
Tanks again for your help.

There is no grove for the ring seal, so did'nt put them on. When fixing the front seal, do you remove only the nose and radiator or the whole front with the axle? Did it one time that way en the second time just the nose and radiator. That was not easy to get the puley back on. It's going to be a wi...

Succes!!!!!!! :D Changed the cup seals and When I started the engine the smoke was less. Let it run for a while and a bit of oil came out. Two day,s later I tested it longer and all seem weel. But of oil. Today had a drive for 10 miles, a day of demo ploghing and 10 miles back. No oil at all. I'm a ...

That was my idea to. Hope I"ll have them at the end of the week.

henk wrote: ↑

Sat May 25, 2024 4:46 pm

Also I see in the parts list that the rocker shaft is mounted on 4 brackets and mine has 5.

Just a thought.
There are 4 different brackets. Left, right, midlle and the other 2 are the same. Could be that one of them was left out of the exploded view to get a better view.

No excuses needed John.
Tractor is running smootly and with power as ever. But checking the injectors is next on my list, together with messuring the compression.

Sandy, The front pulley had a groove in it, but by using a speedy sleeve the surface is ok now. When I do the job, I will remove the whole front axle and nose together with the side beams. Works better to get the timing cover with the oil seal smootly in place. Would the rubber ring be a normal O-Ri...

Mathias, Once I had the head off because of a small gasket leak. That's all I've done on the engine. If the new cup seals do not solve the problem, the head will be the next job. Then I check the liners of course. But I think these ar good. If they leak oil, they also would leak air and there should...

I was looking into the valves seals with the help of the part slist. On the inlet valve there's a seal with number 6571. It looks like a sort of O-ring and is placed under collet and in the bottom of the retainer. There's no seal on the outlet valve. The I&T Shop Service Manual No: FO-12 on paragrap...

To day I changed the oil in HD 20W50. No result with the oil leakage at the front and excaust, altough the spashes ar larger and thicker :cry: The oil pressure is 40 again with a bit of RPM's and staitionairy 35. Next thing to do, I think, will be checking the compression pressure. Or renewing the v...

Hello Mathias, It's Total oil SAE30 without HD. I'm going to change it in HD 20W50 oil and see what happens. Yesterday we had a club event and I taked with a view people about it. The all came up with piston rings and then the valves, but when I mentioned the oil they all say, you could be right. So...

The cranckshaft ventilation is not blocked. So that's not the problem.
The oil could be part of it. It's not a HD version. So the oil could be to thin and at high temp and therefore low on viscosity.
Changing it to 15W40 with HD could maybe help.

Just want to know. When I was looking for the ventilation I notice the screw plug on the right front side in front of the oilfilter and under the houre meter drive. What is the purpes? Just blocing a bore?

The oil is Total Rubia SX30. A minaral oil. So I think it's the right oil. Could 10W/40 modern oil be better, because heated is should be thicker dan the W30 oil
I knew wich pipe you ment. I'll check it. Are there other places to check for the ventilation?

Thanks Billy,
I have checkt the oil filler cap. There's no speed change at all when doing the test.
Come to think of it, in the same time when problems started I've bin using other oil. Will look for the specs. I don't think thats the problem, but better check.
I fear there's a lot of work comming.

It's been a long time since I wrote anything on the forum. Only when problems arise are you prompted to write again. What's the problem. About two years ago I noticed black oil splashes on the left side of the engine. I thought that the valves should be adjusted again and the oil changed. Also a new...

The fault is in the documents. I've fix it, but can't login. Have had a computer switch and trying to recall all the passwords and setting. Two day"s ago the uplode connection was ok and now it won't connect. Trying to fix it.

What is the chain driven thing?
A oil pump for the 3p hitch?
Very rare conversion. I think theres only one of it.

Leeroy and John B,

There are many way's to go to Rome as we say.

Pick the one that you like the moost.

John b wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 07, 2022 11:02 pm

It would have to be drilled out to an even larger diameter to use a helicoil

You Are right John B, therefor the best way would be to make them yourself and use pa M18 Fine thread.

Lerooy, I would go for the heli coil option, but you must have thread tools and a lathe or know someone who has that. There is a risk if the bigger hole needed for that coil punches trough you will lose oil through it. But with some sealing it can be stopped. The bolt is a UNC 5/8 -11 thread. Drill ...

Leeroy, Do you have a picture from the side you are refering to? I understand the picture above is the once turned side that is now the upside. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp31p8jSWaM The video shows how a helicoil works. You can buy a set but thats expensive. You can make one yourself on a lath...

Last year, I have don one hole on the upside. Made a bush with inner and outher treaths. Can't remember now what I used for the outside Metric or UNC or BSW. Have not document it with a drawing.
I notice a rather thin castwork around the hole, so be carefull with Helicoile.