The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Thanks for replies. I checked the tap only to find someone had turned it on. I was sure it was off because I never use the pump, only a bit of heat now and then. Sorry for being a fool, I hope this cures my problem, it pays to check and check again.

Thanks for the reply. I had the same problem with it leaking after a day. I will change to a conversion kit at next oil change. Suppliers are Agriline at agrilineproducts .com part 6822 or silverfoxtractorspares.com

Does anyone have a view on Ford Tractor Spin-On Oil Filter Conversion Kit, or has anyone fitted one or use one on their tractor. I have a 4000 and am thinking of fitting one in place of the Cartridge Type.

When trying to start the engine I seem to have some hydraulic lock (oil in cylinder), it’s very hard to turn over. When the engine does turn over and starts(needs a very good battery) it blast out a lot of oil from the exhaust, enough to cover me and the tractor plus surrounding area. Once this has ...

I had a similar problem with my 4000. I checked the head and reseated the valves, this help a little. The main change and cure was when I got new injectors and had the pump refurbished. All is well now.

Thanks for the help.
Does anyone know the horse power, and is there any site that could give me more info on the engine.

I have a Power Major unsure of its year, typical casting codes are C4B late 1958. The engine I believe is not original, the engine number is 502E57237 and pump number P4685.
Can anyone tell me anything about the engine and pump.

Jubilation. I managed to get the bolt out by using an endoscope, some fiddling with some welding rod and the withdrawal with a magnet. Thanks to everyone for their very useful advice. Unfortunately I had started to remove the engine and in doing so had to cut the temperature capillary wire. Refitted...

With my bolt in the gearbox problem, I started to split the engine the other day unfortunately I could not pull out the temperature sender and had to cut it. Is it possible to rejoin the capillary wire. The sensor is still in the housing with about a 300mm tail. Can I solder it, will it still work a...

Thanks for the replies and good advice. My next attack is use an endoscope if I can get down to the bottom, its a fixed shaft. Thanks very much to Dunggatherer for his pictures and very good advice which will be my final try. Split the tractor in three and turn up the centre section, gearbox and clu...

Thanks Rob for the offer of the pictures I would much appreciate seeing them (I’ll pm you). To remove the back end would I have to drain the back axle oil or is it contained in its housing. Will the back end just pull away freely once the outer housing bolt have been removed. Any recommendation on w...

In an earlier post I spoke of my bolt that fell into the gearbox and warn selectors (after advice decided to leave selectors). The gear stick assembly fixing bolt problem. I have tried magnets and not been able to find it. I drained the oil and tried from the drain hole, no luck. Looking in and fill...

Re-tighten, now really tight leaks and weeps now stopped. Checked after about an hour no leaks.
Doesn’t PTFE tape go slimy?

Thankyou for your advice. I won't use sealer, I'll try and tighten them again.

I have just refitted my refurbished pump and injectors. When I fitted the fuel injector pipes (original) I now have small leaks at 2 of the injectors. It looks like the fuel is leaking from the thread at the union of pipe to injector. Is there a recommended sealant, or is it possible to redress the ...

thanks for all the reply's. I'll drain the oil then see if a can remove the screw, if not guess it will be gearbox removal.

Thanks.
I didn't take a note of the timing mark when I removed the pump.
Hopefully then when the pump and injectors are returned, could be next week or after Christmas, it should be a straight forward job provided I have the seals. Timing of pump not sure.

Thanks for the quick reply. As I feared, no easy fix. I’ll start with the fishing for the bolt, if that fails no other answer but to remove the gearbox and then I’ll change the selectors. Thanks again.

I am having my injectors and fuel pump refurbished (Ford 4000). When it comes to refitting, is there any tips, tricks or precautions that will aid the refitting of these items.

During the removal of my gear sticks after the tractor got stuck in gear, one of the fixing bolts fell into the gearbox. I have tried magnets to remove it but without success. What is the likelihood of this bolt causing a problem? Back to the reason for removing the gearstick, the selectors are worn...

Great thanks very much, I will give them a call.

Hi rob, check the flow rate from the tap, some second market taps do not flow freely particularly the pump type. Perhaps someone might know what the flow rate should be.

I have some Super Major power steering rams I would like to refurbish. Can anyone please tell me if they know of anywhere in the UK, ideally in the west country that can carry this task out for me. Or if there is a documented method including parts on refurbishing these, I am then happy to do it mys...

Can anyone please tell what the label for Hydraulic selector valve knob says ON A 4000. I have some of the wording left on the label. "PULL FOR ?????? MIDWAY EXT. & INT. ?????PLUS FOR INT. SERV.

Does anyone have a copy of the wiring diagram or any info on the loom for a 1972 4000.
My diagram has a lot of lines missing. I need to rewire my tractor as part of the restoration this winter.