The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Rather than replace the injection pump, there’s probably some type of metal filler available to build up the square drive. Make sure that neither cable nor instrument are seized before refitting. When the tacho stopped working on a Super Major, I jammed small slivers of wood around the worn square a...

So it is a Dexta part ! Not seen one for at least 50 years.

The mystery item with chain is used to hold down the hydraulic control lever when the linkage drawbar is in use, to prevent accidental raising of the linkage.
It may be a Dexta part, or possibly Fergy.

The website quotes other models from €650 to €1350, plus VAT

If you have tyre rub with stabiliser bars fitted, (one each side?) something is wrong.
Either lots of wear in the bars or possibly the implement pins are fitted outside their brackets, rather than inwards.

Recent post on YouTube:
‘Ford 6610 Powerstar Repower’

If air is entering the plastic filter, it suggests a restriction in the tank tap/filter/primer. The tap assembly won’t unscrew without lifting the tank, but any blockage there must be dealt with to ensure a reliable supply of fuel.

You don’t need to spin the engine to bleed it. Merely slacken the bleeder on the injection pump and use lift pump till bubbles stop.
I’ve never needed to loosen injector pipe on a Simms pump.

Three feet?

Canvas hoods on Land Rovers aren’t what they were, with reports of new ones only lasting a few years. Some blame regulations banning certain preservatives.

A family member (mechanic) who specialises in Ford/NH is ‘pretty sure’ the 7740 engine would fit.

The tops of those rods will need a good clean and polish before installing new seals, or damage is inevitable. Also there’ll probably be a lip formed below the pin hole which will need removing. If entrusting the work to a specialist hydraulic repairer beware of mission creep. I recently took a leak...

Some good points above.
There’s a chance of water sitting in engine sump, gearbox, back end. Carefully slacken each drain plug, any water will drain off first.

Don’t use the full width of cut, vary it to suit conditions.

Depends on the crop.
For a heavy cut of hay, probably not. For topping pasture or cutting thistles, ok.

Yes.

It sounds as though your two-stage clutch isn’t functioning correctly. Possibly out of adjustment, or the PTO plates could be stuck or rusted. Do you push the pedal right down when engaging the PTO?

Old 20 Parts list folding bar for Major.
Strange note about not suitable for steering brakes.

1/2” breather listed by Railswood Tractors.
£30.

When ditching with the Power Arm, it’s common to use the boom to repeatedly push the outfit forward into a new position as work progresses. Occasionally, if the tractor doesn’t move easily, the forces involved can cause the linkage (and the whole machine) to move upwards. This isn’t a problem with o...

A minor adjustment to the toe-in can be made by widening the slot in the track rod with a grinder.
You are then relying on the clamp to hold everything in place, so a short run of weld could be considered. (Guess how I know)
An inch and a half of toe in will strip the tyres in no time.

I’ve recently replaced almost every hose on a mid-seventies International Wainroy digger. Cost: roughly £1000. While it may seem bonkers spending so much on a machine that age, I’m now fairly confident that I won’t finish each day smelling of £50 worth of oil.

Thanks for the comments. My query relates to the knob at the driver end.
Some are cast as one piece (similar to starter lever), others have a much larger, screwed-on composite knob.
Why the difference?

Any significance concerning one-piece levers as against knobbed levers?
I thought they changed in later years, but I’ve recently seen photos of early Majors with the larger, screw on end.

Another possibility:
Speedycables, near Swansea.