The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

If you mix a big lump of car body filler, spray some wd40 on the splines in one of the old arms so it will release and press the filler about 1/4 of the way round the inside you should be able to remove it when it hardens and use it to see if the splines match up in the new arms

Take the new arms to an engineering shop and get the flats milled deeper than the splines so they will go over the cross shaft, not a big job. Then using the old arms as a guide you should be able to get the orientation correct

If you have spun 2 main bearings I would say you have had a serious oil pressure problem (maybe pump failure) and the camshaft journals could be in trouble too. As Sandy says, some parts are interchangeable and some are not available new, you could be looking at a big parts bill for a full rebuild a...

Hi, before you pull the sump off what are your oil pressure readings cold and hot? Ideally with a decent gauge connected not the one on the tractor

The one I had to fight with was just stuck from standing for a few years out in the open. Stick at it, sounds like you are making great progress!

Hi Leeroy, I had fun with a siezed spindle and this worked for me.Take the arm off the top and jack the wheel off the ground but leave it attached, spray penetrating oil on the top and strap a long metal pole to the side of the wheel with a ratchet strap so it sticks out the front. Use the pole to w...

Lack of smoke certainly sounds like a fuel problem, it may be pumping fuel to the injectors but if the pump plungers are only partially moving there won't be enough pressure to open the injector nozzle. Have had succes before with stuck plungers by removing the injector pipes and the fuel inlet to t...

Sounds very much like there is a "rust ring" on one or more of the bores from where the piston rings were sat for a long time. As Sandy says it is time to remove the injectors and get some oil down the bores, let it soak for a couple of days and gently keep working the engine by hand and eventually ...

There are a couple of places here in the UK that do shims but as you say it's a lottery with aftermarket parts, last engine I did the first set of liner seals I ordered were nowhere near right

Not disagreeing with you Sandy but I do disagree with Ford on the later liners, I have shimmed several of the 2 seal liners back to 0.004" and never had a problem with them afterwards, also found RTV silicone will seal minor Imperfections in the seal groove in the block and also acts as a lubricant ...

You shouldn't have any play in the pistons (other than maybe a tiny amount side to side) so it sounds like you have a problem there. The Major has wet liners so it is not always as simple as just replacing the head gasket as the liners have to protrude above the gasket face by 4 thou to enable the g...

You can just turn it over with the pump connected, just have someone watch the shaft while you turn it to make sure it is turning OK, but as you say, clean it up and free the rack first. To turn the motor over the only safe way to do it is to remove the starter and pry the teeth on the flywheel, you...

Personally I would remove the injector pump before turning the engine over in case the cam in the bottom is siezed (or frozen as you say across the pond). If water has got into the bottom of the pump having it turn with the engine can cause damage, it's only 4 bolts underneath the pump and the pipes...

I would have paid him the money before he finished speaking! Even if you find that it is too much for you to do it has to be worth more than that as a project for someone else, Here in the UK that price is 2 tanks of fuel in a family car!

That would explain the rear winch, thanks Rob

A friend got sent this photo today of a New Holland and trailer load of potatoes getting a helping hand. Any one know what the Major is? (We have no idea!)

The cam runs directly in the block and I'm pretty sure oversize bushings are unavailable now. If you did find any the engine would need to be removed and stripped and the cam drillings line bored to fit the new bushings. The wear tends to be at the bottom of the drilling from the downward pressure o...

Chap I used to work for had a Triumph TR6 with felt seals on wheel bearings, he used to leave them to soak in oil for a week (makes them compress easier and stay compressed) and then press them between 2 thick bits of metal plate in the vice before fitting them

Luckily they were nothing to do with me. But there are an awful lot of major engines that have been ruined by cooling system neglect, both corrosion and cracked blocks/heads.

Some good info there Sandy. With regard to radiator caps and pressure ratings, something I have seen happen twice on poorly maintained Majors (one on a log splitter and one very rarely used) was they both had unpressurised rad caps fitted. These rotted away and were replaced with pressurised ones, b...

agree it would be running rough Sandy, it was just a thought. Sounds alot like worn valve guides if it is oil being thrown out

Forgive me if I'm asking the obvious but are the black spots definitely oil? I have seen black spots which are unburnt fuel mixed with soot caused by bad injectors

Hi Sandy, I have fixed one of those badges on a friend's Super Major and it has held so far. Grind what is left of the pin flat but leave as much metal as possible. Drill into the badge as deep as you can without going through (lots of precise measuring needed!) with a 4mm drill (should be 4.2 but 4...

Sandy, from Jim’s earlier posts I think it’s a live drive. Do you think it’s possible that the lever has moved on the shaft and is hitting the cover before engaging low drive fully allowing it to jump out?

Agree with Sandy, 1 1/2” sounds very excessive. As for the play, have you checked the axle pivot and A frame mounts for wear? Last one I did had very worn bolts holding the A frame to the axle and the A frame pivot on the sump had an old bolt through it with bits of copper pipe over it to try and ma...