The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Cracking bit of engineering there Sandy, very impressive!

Very true Sandy, i think common rail electronic injection systems will suffer far more than an old machanical type

Thats a good point Rob, i have noticed that diesel seems to evaporate alot easier than it used to, hadn't given the recent change any thought but it would certainly be interesting to see what the difference is. Maybe Vlad was trying to destroy our engines so the world had to drive Ladas!

If you do remove the pump make sure you mark the couplers as it is possible to put it back together 180° out!

Remove the 4 bolts underneath and the pipes and slide it backwards, the coupler just pulls apart. To set the timing line the flywheel to 23°, there should be a pointer on the pump that lines up with a notch on the front coupler, if they dont line up slacken the 2 bolts on the coupler and turn it so ...

Just curious but why do you want to remove the pump?

Sounds like you are getting there. When you fit the new diaphragm you will know if the rack is free as it will return to the left when you move it, and as Sandy says it should jump a bit futher left when you press the excess fuel button, and if you then move it right the button should pop back out. ...

I think you have a better climate to avoid condensation than we do though, don't think they would be as good condition parked outside in the UK

Totally agree about the lack of use and condensation being a problem, i have seen pumps on barn stored tractors full of rust. I was told by a retired simms engineer many years ago that the vacuum pumps were designed to have the cambox filled with oil every service with the plungers mainly relying on...

No worries, glad to help

If you take the governor end housing off check the diaphragm is in good condition and everything is clean in there. There is a gauze filter under the round cover on the top, this should be clean and not blocked

It should return back to the left

Looks clean enough in there, i've seen them in a horrible state, could do with a wash out though.Think you will need a new gasket too, don't put gasket sealer on it as you will need to remove the side plate at least every 12 months to give the inside a good oiling. Assuming the overflow pigtail pipe...

Let us know what you find, there are a couple of things to do to lube it all up before you replace the side plate

It could well be, if you remove the side plate you will see what the inside looks like. It should be nice and clean but you may find it's full of rust and crud, if it is then you will need a tub of diesel and a toothbrush to clean it all up

Hi Will, make sure the pump is spotlessly clean and remove the side plate and see if the rack (the square horizontal bar) is free, it should move side to side. If it is stuck it will prevent the stop lever moving and the pump will not work, give it a squirt of diesel and gently try working it free J...

Glad you sorted it, just remember to give it a squirt of oil on the plungers before you park it up for the winter and all should be good
John

Fair play Shepp, you have got some patience! Well worked out, glad you got it sorted

I know I keep banging on about modern diesel but it really isn't good enough for lubing these old pumps, and anyone who doesn't start oiling them regularly will end up with a nice bill for a refurb. I stripped the bottom end of one a while ago and the rollers on the bottom of 2 of the plungers had s...

They shouldn't be that stuck if has only been a few months, the Simms pump relied on diesel to lube all the internals but with modern diesel it's definitely worth removing the side plate a couple of times a year and giving each plunger a good squirt of engine oil, you can't overfill it (as long as t...

Yes, they should move up and down but i can see on the video they are stuck in the up position, as Sandy says it looks very dry in there. Leave them to soak for a day or so, then if they are still stuck use a piece of wood (thin hammer handle is ideal), and very gently try levering them down, but do...

The joys of modern low sulphur diesel that doesn't lube the pump properly! Been reading alot about adding ATF or 2 stroke oil to a tank of fuel but there seems to be so much conflicting info. I do think it's worthwhile using an off the shelf addative that has lubricity improver in it, especially for...

Hi Jim, you could fill the pinholes with solder if there aren't too many, clean the area thoroughly and use a punch and very carefully tap the holes inwards to give a small dent to fill (stops the solder running away). If you have pinholes the chances are that the metal in the tank has gone very thi...

Drill and tap the cap on the outer flat face and fit a grease nipple, it'll make it much easier to keep it packed with grease

As you say Sandy, it sounds like the later one with a ball on one end and an eye on the other as used on the old JCB 3c. You could cut the old end off, buy a replacement screw on ball end, cut the threaded bar off it, take the rubber boot off and weld it back on to the end of the drag link. Get some...