The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

You should never really run the engine above 1600 rpm except for setting the no load speed. None of the gear ratios were designed for such speeds, and a part from that there is more risk for damage in the engine (although lorries could run at 2500 rpm they do have some different parts, some of those...

I don't belive Ford did change supplier, but colours did vary throughout production. It was actually two coats, but a very quick and functional affair, with no consideration to anything like a good finish, just cover up the areas to protect from rust. Not only were areas missed, but others had runs ...

The polish will alter the dimensions, measuring is crucial, any failure to specs will require a regrind. And make sure everything is clean, or the same problems will happen as if there are imperfections.
Sandy

Don't use sand paper or emery cloth. Really it should be remeasured but if with wire wool you can shift it and it looks ok you might just be lucky, I would remeasure it for if there are any defects it's better to remove them now than find a bearing has spun with the secondary consequences from that ...

I don't recommend it. Space will be tight and it might not even fit properly. Removal for servicing will also be really hard work. Leaving it as it is is far better, it also ensures the oil flow is as designed past the filter. Dexta's have a lot more space for it, but again it will alter the oil flo...

That pump will fit but it's not strictly speaking correct, the lever and lower body are different on a real AC YE pump. The governor pipe you want is 957E-993139B, there is for the early pumps. Your governor outer case is 180 degrees out, and there shouldn't be anything between the inner and outer c...

For originality you do need a lift pump, but it should be a genuine AC YE pump, but I suspect functionally your current one will be ok, so not an urgent job (unless its diaphragm is porous in which case it needs replacing, new ones are available). As for the governor diaphragm it only needs replacin...

The real difference is the injector pump which changed to a minimec at 09B-710530, the first Super Dexta, engine 1600001. Dexta's had it from engine 1530251. The only other major part to be different is the intake manifold, fitted with a butterfly valve before 09B-710530 and not after. From 09C-9133...

I suggest you go through this and see if you did the same (excepting the special tools): https://www.fordson.se/4B_V%E4xell%E5da_Suplement_Verkstadshandbok_016-035.pdf I say about the handbrake because there's a plate in an unexpected location (between the idler gear and casting) and the adjustment ...

I understand it only sounds when the wheels move, am I right? If so it's either in the rear of the gearbox or the rear axle, if it didn't make such a noise before it's probably the gearbox. See if different gears make a difference, with high-low in neutral. Did you adjust the handbrake as speciified...

There is no such thing, the colours were specifically made for Ford. The best thing to do is to match some at a paint shop if you can. Aftermarket companies sell paints claimed to be right but it's not always true, that you'll need to check yourself or see what people say about it, we got some Agril...

I've found some extra information on Dexta main bearing bores for anyone interested along with masses of other specs dated August 62:
https://bundybearsshed.com.au/wp-conten ... e-Data.pdf
Sandy

Unfortunately no, but don't let that put you off getting it, for there are many Dexta's that need that tool and it'll make it easier to measure for those who don't have such a tool. There is a drawing of the clutch tool in the manual which I added some details here https://www.fordsontractorpages.nl...

Just adding the sizes of N-7221.

Sandy

Wow you're a lucky boy! Even if not complete go for it, it's well worth having. I see it's an American one. The tool consists of the following parts: T.7502, T.7502-1, T.7502-2. T.7502-2 includes T.7502-2/aa, T.7502-2/b, T.7502-2/d, T.7502-2/e. In old numbers 7502 (consisting of 7502/1, 7502/2 and 7...

Just added details of the current Dexta live clutch spring introduced from 09C-922849 and the one you'll see on repro clutches. Ford say it's heavier but don't provide accurate details, so just make sure it tests at least as strong as the earlier type if overhauling a clutch.
Sandy

That's not a screw, it's a dowel, part no. N-7221. These wear badly, the housing and lever do too. Not a big deal, and it can wait for a test run, I'll measure it tomorrow so you can make a new one and fill in the wear in the housing and lever, at a suitable moment. The ball on the end of the lever ...

No. 1 is the engine number, 1499710 in your case. No. 2 is the Perkins part number for the water inlet, the Ford number is 957E-8275. No.3 is the factory location for the serial number, it should coincide with what you found on the RH side flange, 09B-701365.
Sandy

I can't say about the disc for although it's not the right part no. I don't know if others have used these or not. Don't do only one disc, both must always be done at the same time to keep the clutch correctly set. It won't operate correctly otherwise. As for the numbers the gearbox one is it's part...

That's too far forward, in this pic of Davie you'll see it where I said, that's where to find it. Your number is on all Dexta blocks and I think it's a Perkins code to allow them to know what that block is for or something like that. The parts were cast at Dagenham, assembled into an engine at Peter...

The usual location is on the bell housing flange just in front of the timing inspection cover (LH side). Quite keen to see what you have in the dash, many people don't know about details and in the case of the ignition switch might fit a new modern one in place of the light switch, risking water ent...

That's mid January 62, and it looks like Ford Köln have seen it as that's not the usual location, although on the very same part. If you can look in the usual location it should have the same number although in a different type of punch and vertically. The engine is suitably from a slightly earlier ...

It looks more like 1499710 to me. A better clean and pic will confirm that. The other pic is the gearbox casting code, the serial number and other casting codes will be very helpful to identify this.
Sandy

Looking good. Hope it works correctly now.
Sandy

It's on the block just behind the coolant inlet. The serial number is on the bell housing flange next to the timing inspection cover.
Sandy