The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Looks like you'll be busy there, hope you get the lot.
Sandy

I would have too, very good price indeed. Looks like a Super Major between 1613500 and 08B-756398, don't know anything about the extras though.
Sandy

Added some lorry info.
Sandy

Steelfab did indeed make it, and back in the day the Ford dealers would have had spares of the more common implements from other manufacturers in use on Fordson's. At the time New Holland were independent and made combines and balers (Major powered of course). If you get suitable plugs you can remov...

I can't really help much but a specialist seal factor will hopefully be able to make some. Be careful as those caps are probably very tight. The ram rods could do with a polish too as they will otherwise never seal. Nice Dexta, some pics and serial numbers would be nice.
Sandy

I think that's it, here's one in action along with many other Major's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmwrnqMMjyE 14:30-37:30. As far as I can see there's no 4wd, but that might just be I can't see well enough. Looks to be Power Major based, can't see well enough for more precise dating.
Sandy

There were never rubber seals for the wheels, that would be the spindle arms which changed with the Super Major (with felt seals leave 0.002" between the arm and extension, with rubber this becomes 0.025"). Super Billy is in the same state, the soaking in oil is probably the best thing to do as it w...

Excellent pics, wow what damage, looks like the gear is cracked from crushing the departed tooth. I'm amazed it ran after that, you definitely wouldn't keep the oil in well with that (definitely caused by the tooth being hammered into the soft cover). The front crank seal looks pretty good, I suspec...

There is no way the engine could run with that problem, if the leak was from the front crank seal it's a very common one, not really a big one to worry about as long as there's no real change in the oil level as a result (but now you're going to get in there definitely fix it, it should be easy enou...

As John says this is a big job, if however you're up to it there are some bushes on ebay now: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134109770527?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D272925%26meid%3Defdd978623ae454aa9d7c46b05c22efe%26pid%3D101878%26rk%3D16%26rkt%3D22...

Do you think they're reasonably accurate? They seem to work ok but would love to have them looking more like the original ones. I can only think of seeing them on one Mk2 Major, they are visible in the odd Ford film but not close enough to see well enough for making them. You're lucky to have had so...

The repro filter looks a bit odd, the rubber you're referring to was only fitted to AC filters, Burgess types don't have a seal. We have similar issues occasionally, but normally fixed the AC filters by pushing them up hard before tightening the clamp fully. Not too sure how to tackle a Burgess filt...

Using wrong oil can be the whole cause of the leaks, that's why I think it should be replaced before fixing other things. The fact that he's never mentioned starting difficulties suggests that compression is not an issue, and the L4 is no exceptional starter anyway so that might be why he hasn't com...

That is the whole point of using HD oils, so that dirt doesn't accumulate inside and instead collects in the sump and oil filter. The inside of the engine should be fairly clean if everything is done correctly (correct oil replaced often enough). I don't know if Perkins had different specs but all F...

I'm not familiar with the L4 but you should really use HD oils in diesel engines. The breather could well be blocked, try cleaning it first, if the dipstick is being blown a bit you need to get any wrong oil out first, once you have the right oil in there then you can evaluate if you're loosing comp...

You've got a big job there, and a very important one. As it's rust you'll need to get something fairly aggressive in there to start with (someone else used gravel in a Major tank). You'll need to remove everything from the tank as otherwise it will get damaged. Once the rust is away use fuel in ther...

Bad connections are very definitely suspect for issues like this. Gooid idea to test too.
Sandy

I see what you mean, but as I see it I don't think the battery is actually connected in the pic. Mathias will no doubt put us right on that. The wires I see there are probably the regulator ones as well as the feed wire to the ignition switch.
Sandy

Sounds like a good chance, could also be a broken post, but probably less likely. If it were one of ours I would probably take it apart and see inside, but that's just my way of thinking. Definitely worth using the correct solenoid, for earlier tractors (before September 61 roughly) the housing is a...

this one looks close enough: https://www.misteragri.com/media/catalog/product/cache/c22e3ee1ca477a89d31e2f499963bb26/4/3/43494_pic1.webp What about this model? Is this ever used on the fordson? https://www.amazon.com/66323-Solenoid-E1ADDN11450C-Replaces-Fordson/dp/B0853DYD4M The first one is the co...

No special position, fully up or down will avoid possible surprises but that's all. Ford never said anyrthing about it.
Sandy

You'll be better with a cutter bar mower, that was what was around when Dexta's were new. If power is an issue you can always remove the flails in part of the mower, always do so in a way that ensures perfect balance.
Sandy

The bulbs are part no. 100E-13466B, and are similar to a Lucas 643 or 288 bulb. The rubber is between the lights and temp gauge and the chromed dash, and as I see it the outer light housings are insulated from the bayonet holder (in theory). Maybe you need to remove the housing and look inside, mayb...

Unfortunately not available, a scrapy should have one if you need it although these normally just need a clean.
Sandy

Are you looking for the suction or return filter? There are return filters available but as usual their quality is poor. The suction filters are not available.
Sandy