The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I had the alternator removed already. With the 44" belt there was no way I could get the bolt holes to line up. I'll give it another attempt today I was just worried about the belt being so tight.

I cleaned the pulley, with 1200 grit, where the seal makes contact. Hoping it will last at least until spring. What exactly do you mean by the axle not taking the relocation? It seems like there is enough "play" where it mounts in the front and rear pins/mounts... I have a couple braces to weld in s...

Dynamo adjuster got moved to top right water pump bolt to work with Delco-Remy 10si alternator. Got the frame welded back together for now. Moved the tombstone ~3/8" further from the motor. Pulley just clears now, less that 1/16" clearance to get it in/out. Timing cover and main cover got cleaned up...

Yes there will have to be a trip to the scrappy, as I already mentioned. For now it will either get drilled, plates, and (grade 8?) bolts, or it will end up being welded back together as a temporary fix until the trip to the scrap yard can be arranged. Likely in the coming spring/summer unfortunatel...

Well it's off. Prepare yourself for this photo...

https://www.amazon.ca/photos/share/FtYb ... 6toeLVmr0y

What a piss off.

Well this just became a MUCH bigger job.

So much for removing the pulley without removing the tombstone.

FML

https://www.amazon.ca/photos/share/X8Ni ... QwXda61sxy

Alright, The nose cone, rad, fan, alternator (new pulley done today), and front hydraulic drive components are disassembled... Pictures ➡️ https://www.amazon.ca/photos/share/G34te8JsQOxylZhdMVLJ1TAI5ffK7aS3Gbf3jPILvdT A few things I need answered: 1) Is that the correct crank pulley for a 1952 Fords...

Oh, it turns out the bad bearing I'm hearing is actually in the PTO box, not the throw-out/release bearing on the clutch. I didn't realize that I left the PTO engaged after replacing PTO lever seals. Once it was disengaged the very concerning noise went away. Another job for the near future. 😕 I nee...

Thanks John!

Sent them an email, hoping they can shed some light on this carb.

I would need the ring measurements for both compression and oil to see if there are any others that can be matched up. I'll have to redo the compression test, clearly, but it will have to wait until I deal with the front cover issues. What was the designed compression? 130, 160, or? The carb says it...

Actually those cylinder pressure results are likely off... I forgot that the throttle was at idle and not wide open.

Test will be redone in the future, but should still give a rough idea of the condition.

Here's the cylinder results.

#1 was a surprise, I would have thought #2 would have been the lowest. 🫤
Cylinder hone and new rings at some point in the future?

Ok, so I'm about to test the compression... I let the motor heat up to about 170° for the first time since owning it. I do not know if the thermostat opened, or even exists. The rad and hoses will be removed soon, so I will check the thermostat while I'm there. Oil pressure started around ~40PSI @ i...

Thank you for that belt measurement! I pulled the cross-shaft between the governor and the carburetor today. What a good suggestion! The buildup was like thick like clay, very sticky, and full of grit. https://www.amazon.ca/photos/share/MaOkdmnOywu2HqayaDpBQRTaZYABS4vHoPQ14vvdpGN Shaft, block hole, ...

Here are some photos of the intake screen, cover, and a couple shots up inside the sump (best I could get) showing some of the bottom end. https://www.amazon.ca/photos/share/OyHaZxSbFyNFUd1j7ixBRnC2rxN0PqPBXfn6V79UoGB The motor looks REALLY clean to me... A few small chunks on the intake screen, I t...

Clearly I will have to remove it to see wth is going on. It is CERTAINLY not a "tin heat shield", it is close to 1/4" thick and formed around the shape of the exhaust manifold. See Here ➡️ https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1b0lbA4KQx3hZYEyTOou7YUI0LW-e65pM I am guessing it was added to increase...

Since we're talking about the intake manifolds...

Why is mine different from Bob's (old52)?

Is mine a TVO intake manifold, or petrol?

Bob's - https://postimg.cc/gallery/XvqVY6G#gallery-10

Mine - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qCdW7s ... p=drivesdk

Also, when the timing mark on the front cover lines up with the mark on the crankshaft pulley, what ° is the motor set at? It that at TDC - 0°, 8° BTDC, or ? 🤔 So far I have learned that the curve map, of even the ORIGINAL Lucas 40275, is completely and totally wrong for modern gasoline. Still in ta...

You're awesome Sandy! A question I never even thought to ask until now... Any concerns with modern gasoline, especially the ethanol content and lack of lead? I'm sure that's what the PO had been using, but still... I am in talks with a distributor rebuilder in the USA currently and I will let you kn...

So the original solenoid was cable actuated? 🤔 Interesting... My gauges appear to be correct, the choke cable, horn button, and ignition are where they belong, however, the hole for the starter cable is just that...an empty hole. My panel also has a very small silver "knob" that pulls out to turn on...

Do electronic ignition conversions exist for these Majors?

Thanks AGAIN Sandy! Will be writing all of that down somewhere with my tractor papers. 😉 Unfortunately, the distributor that is on this tractor is NOT original! It is a Lucas 41370 D. Date code 26 72. (In the first photo link posted above) I did read somewhere that this distributor COULD be used for...

Also, do you know which distributor is supposed to be on the '52 gas Major?

I can find the Ford part # for the body, cap, etc, however they have nothing to do with Lucas part #'s and those are what I need it seems.

Ok so... I have spoken with the PO and he says that he used conventional 10W30 oil in it. When asked about the brand or any other information he said it was Valvoline conventional 10W30. Upon looking it up all I can find is this: Valvoline SAE 10W30 https://drive.google.com/file/d/14W6Q4wOnA0E-WCeV3...

Thank you for all of that information! I would prefer to weld the pulley groove and then have it machined, versus sleeving it, I just wasn't sure that was even an option. As for the oil pressure I should have stated that that is ~10psi at IDLE, and it does increase as the RPMs climb... Would that be...