The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I have a tractor that has been unused for about 15 years. 12 of those it did not start, and about 3 years ago I got it running when I picked it up. At that time the lift arms would only lower very slowly with a lot of weight on them. Another 3 years on with no use and they don't lower at all. I have...

For the most part a gauge is a gauge. Your gauge will stop flickering if you restrict the oil flow to it. I have done this in the past by plugging the inlet with a plug with a very small hole through it of about 1mm. Fluid filled gauges will do the same as the one you have but are last much longer u...

That's slick. The question, suggestions and fix all by the same poster! Pleased you got it sorted Nick. Sounds like your not the sort of guy to let grass grow under your feet.

I have always set vales on a 4 cylinder a bit different. I set the valve clearance when the valve the same number of spaces from the opposite end is fully open. for example set #1 when #8 is open, #8 when #1 is open, #2 when #7 is open, #7 when #2 is open etc, try setting #4 when #5 valve is fully o...

It will be interesting to see how much cooler it runs. Clearly there is a lot of rust scale and other sludge built up around the bottom of the liners limiting the ability of the water to cool them. I took the tap out of mine (bigger hole) and by getting in with a wire was able to dislodge a lot more...

Somebody distributed a petrol manual on here a couple of years ago. I have a copy, but I'm on the other side of the planet to my shed at the moment. Back in two weeks if you can wait?

Looking at that video it looks like all the play in the steering is caused by the bearing just below the steering wheel. When they get shot they allow the shaft to wind in and out of the steering box, rather than turning parts inside. You can see the steering wheel moving up and down in the video. C...

Yes, I believe you will need to adjust the governor. Google fordson manual and clich on the fordson .se result. Pages 65 and 81 are worth a look.

Wee59, you have the answer to your question. Your tacho has spent the last 50 years bouncing around paddocks and living in the rain. As you say it is not reading correctly, the dam things telling lies. Find somebody with a hand held tacho and put it on the PTO shaft, set the engine rpm correctly, an...

I just eyeballed the friction plates when putting it together on the bench, and it went together fine

Both the alternators I have had fail in recent years have simply had worn brushes. Cheap and easy to fix.

I think mine had been drained daily in winter and refilled from the local stream for 50 years. The block was full of silt. Got a hose running through it and spent a hour or so poking wire through every hole possible. Flushed the radiator as well. Loads came out and it ran fine after that.

I would look at the rear crank seal. Not hard to replace. If you take the flywheel off and find a leak it's a good time to replace it. I think there's also a seal between the inner and outer gearbox shaft that leaks into the middle of the clutch when it fails. I don't recall building the clutch bein...

LH side, forward flange of the bell housing

Very nice FM engine and nice to see it here. I would bet there are a few of us on this forum with engines as well as tractors. Your son is lucky to have an engine with some family history and will have plenty of fun with it.

Tears of joy I hope, you've cracked it, it's going!

I don't think it will be open on a MF. The hole just allows drilling of fuel gallery that includes a 90 deg angle during manufacture, and must be blanked. This is done on a lot of parts and often you see a small ball pressed into the hole to blank it after drilling. I think on this carb that gallery...

On the condensation, I have another petrol tractor (Nuffield) that does that. In cold weather it even builds ice on the start of the manifold. Does not seem to bother it at all though.

That hole has a blanking plug in it on my tractor.

If you feel an increase in resistance in the second half of the pedal travel, and the drive clutch works well, then there would be nothing to gain moving the linkage. Adjustment will more the drive clutch release out of limits as well. I think you will be splitting the tractor. Over the years I have...

In the bottom left of this picture there is a clevis connecting to the release bearing shaft. Make sure the pin is in the rear hole to start with. If that does not work then you will need to put an implement on the tractor that will work the PTO hard, and try releasing the PTO clutch while its worki...

I think there is some misunderstanding about the pictures. They are not of the tractor Islander is asking about, but sample picture of my tractor that I have posted in the hope they will help Islander sort the problem. They will at least show if he has all the correct spacers on the fan and axle. I'...

Maybe these will help. I doubt wear in the pin would be enough to make it touch. Something assembled wrong, or the wrong fan. Assuming the fan belt alignment is still correct, and the correct fan is fitted, then you will be looking at axle mounting I think. http://i43.tinypic.com/30xe5oj.jpg http://...

I think they are the same as a MF35/135 petrol. Have a look at www.bareco.com.au on the MF page they list a replacement carb. No doubt other suppliers have the same carb available. I am assuming they fit, so do ask the supplier. What,s your one doing?

There are 2 mixture screws on the carb. The larger one facing the dynamo is the main jet and controls full throttle mixture. Set to 3 1/2 turns.

The smaller screw, facing outwards, is the idle mixture. Manual does not give a setting for this, just saying adjust for correct running at idle.