The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Bloody hell, Bob; it looks as if you are going to fit pilings rather than fence posts the way that auger bit is buried. Or are you just 'firing for effect'?
Anyway; welcome to the forum!

Pavel

As with Henk, I'm informed that it is not authorised for this location [Au]. I'm intrigued as to why.

Pavel

Agreed Brian -- especially if you had the cartridges.

Pavel

Nice one, Ricky; dredge up some more.

Pavel

Rick; my son had a second hand Hunter which developed core plug problems. Rather than remove the engine we drilled a largish hole in the fire wall, inside underneath the dash, and did the job on the block rear end successfully. A large rubber bung plugged the hole afterwards.

Pavel

Henk; short answer is no -- some re-wiring would be necessary. Regulators on Majors before the Super had 5 wire terminals whereas the Super has only 4. May I suggest you disconnect the battery and then remove the regulator and, using glass/sand paper [NOT emery or wet and dry], gently clean the cont...

On a seriously cold day, and with an engine in as new condition [unworn bores and p/rings], to initially overcome inertia the draw could be as high as 400 amps. After the first rotational movement this drops to around 200 to 250. Whilst I would agree that the amp. hours description of a battery's po...

Looks like the bottom one in the cylinder block has seen better days as well. Seems like you'll have to bite the bullet, Adrian.

Pavel

Peter makes a good point. Two pointers to overcharging are (1) fuming from the filler caps [very EXPLOSIVE !] and (2) a white powdery substance around the battery posts -- this last can be got rid off by pouring very hot to boiling water over them. A dose of Vaseline on the posts and clamps, when dr...

I'm sure you are aware, Henk, that when you use a battery charger any reasonably good one will stop charging when the battery is fully topped up. When all's said and done the generator is just a battery charger and the regulator will stop it sending out more volts if it's not needed. The best way to...

Agree with Brian's last suggestion. We fitted an aux. pump to the PTO drive to operate a FEL. The lift rams will handle a good half a ton, plus the crowd and tilt ram. The only problem is the establishment of very pronounced biceps without power steering. A helpful trick is to run the front tyres wi...

Yes; welcome to the forum. You'll certainly find the Super different to the 514. I've got a 110; but I much prefer working on, and servicing, the Fordson.

Pavel.

Not surprised the poor thing has been sitting up for 3 years -- probably begging to be used. Having sorted the battery out, did you check the gearbox and final drive oil levels and grease the rear axle hub bearings? Do you have disc or drum brakes? Does the 'bang' occur cyclically every time the rea...

I've come to the conclusion, Brian, that here in Oz it's down to the 'cocky' [a small farmer with few resources] attitude of "she'll be right mate". The surprising thing is that most times it works -- well mainly anyway.

Pavel

At the risk of further flogging this coolant 'horse' to death, which I have no intention of doing, it crosses my mind that there is another thing that helps to promote, and stabilize, coolant temperatures, and that is the radiator/fan blade shroud. Having one fitted increases efficiency by some 25%....

It would appear, Brian, that our learning years in the 50s were very similar in that we were taught that bye-pass systems played had an important part to play in the warming cycle. Nice to know that in this modern era it is still accepted as essential. I admit to being quite surprised that you are a...

Never noticed that before, Brian, but the shrouded thermostat was coded 204E which means it was introduced for the Mk. 2 [4 cylinder] Consul in the late 50s. Also it had a Jiggle pin inserted into the base plate to allow any air trapped around the cylinder walls to exit to the radiator whilst the st...

To continue with this laptop that appears to have a mind of its own [yes I know -- a workman should never blame his tools -- but ...] All engines, diesel or petrol, of the same make and type are different -- even new ones. If one factors in things like fair wear an tear; ambient temperatures that ca...

Certainly the cooling system of engines is an interesting, as well as important, subject. As far as the diesel engine is concerned you may be interested it the following 2 extracts from research papers: Combustion in diesel engines is very complex and until recently, its detailed mechanisms were not...

I tend my apologies if I am repeating previous suggestions. Firstly arm yourself with a digital voltmeter. They are more than accurate enough for general electrical diagnostics and are cheap to buy. Observing correct polarity [is yours positive or negative earth?], place across the battery terminals...

Fascinating stuff, Rick; I've always been awestruck with those huge machines which radiate enormous power. Sadly it reminded me of the large destructive bush fire we had over the summer which destroyed a whole town, including a renowned working steam museum. http://www.watoday.com.au/wa-news/wa-fire...

G'day Adrian; and thanks for the comments and observation. But you are naughty cutting up all that wood and burning it to keep warm. Haven't you heard about global warming and how burning fossil fuel produces all those nasty CO2 molecules that makes our plants grow? [Written in front of the dying em...

Thanks for your diplomatic response to my post, James. I had spent about an hour two finger writing a reply to you comments; went to make a cuppa and came back to find my laptop had shut down and I'd lost the lot. I'll now just confine myself to writing about thermostats and cover anti-freeze later ...

I hope you don't mind me enlarging on your informative info, Rick, as coolant temperature control is very much a serious subject here in Oz -- especially with older diesel engines. Firstly, the heat generated by ignition in our diesel engines on the piston crowns when the tractor is at operating tem...

The easiest way, although not the most cost effective, is to get your local tyre repairer to come and do the job for you. As I recently found they don't remove the wheel but do the job in situ -- in my case fitting a new rear tyre. An alternative, which I have used, is to get a length of 4x2 and a h...