The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Difficult to tell what you have, but from the few codes there are (most are part nos.) it looks like a 63 with mixed parts. See if you can find the serial number and engine number as that gives us something to aim for. There were no colour options, only changes at certain periods (restyle in 60 with...

Hair Bear wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 23, 2023 3:40 pm

Difficult without pictures but I would take a guess at a Lucas/CAV 7111-296.

That's why I was surprised, maybe it is the wrong filter (as you say Rob the CAV 296 sounds likely).
Sandy

The gear is pressed on, but the pump needs to be off and open for this to set the clearances specified on reassembly.
Sandy

Try this: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5024&p=53955#p53955. I didn't think an MF filter would fit a Dexta, but I don't know what filters they used.
Sandy

Happy Xmas and a happy 2024 to all from Billy, Davie and myself, and a pic to enjoy!

Sandy

I'm not familiar with the Agriline setup, I'll show you what someone put on Billy before we had him. https://i.postimg.cc/q7WTz5Rq/2019M6-8.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ZKJhB3T8/2019-M17-22.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ZY2TW0Wj/2021-H20-11.jpg I do have in mind that this is not as easy with a Super Major bu...

Unfortunately you've just come across yet another case of poor repro parts. See what the original pump is like, as it might still be better (Grani fond some new ones in very poor condition). In any case you'll need to either use the original drive gear or cut a new groove in the correct location on ...

Glad it's sorted.
Sandy

I think you'll probably have to make them, but Mathias has a good starting point.The part numbers are 508E-6261 for the front one and 508E-6262 for the other ones. There are two suffixes, E means std ID and OD, F means std ID 0.020" OD O/S. I think there might be more but I can't find anything.
Sandy

The colours were NP blue and NP grey, and they're quite different from both the earlier and later colours. I suggest you match some paint to get a good finish, but make sure your Dexta is nice and clean first. The badge is the simple wheatsheaf in NP grey.
Sandy

I might have got confused with the front wheels, for the new casting didn't appear imediately and Stuart Gibbard shows a prototype with all extras and the early front wheels.This might however again be to do with stock parts.
Sandy

There are three details that require a special tool according to the Ford manual, but this can be done without them. The arms should be 1/2" above the lowest position, they can be locked by tightening the mounting bolts for the adjustment (remember to loosen them to the correct torque before assembl...

Earlyish March 63, nowhere near the end for there's more than an extra year to go till the last one. The casting codes you've posted fit nicely, see what many others you find. The serial number includes the prefix, without which the year is impossible to know, main numbers were repeated in 63 and 64...

Probably worth adding a coupling to that arrangement to allow you to remove the hose when you're not transferring the oil. Then you can enjoy your Major properly! I agree replacing the seals is a job you want to plan for, as it will inevitably mean that you have to spend several hours on it and be c...

I think I'm right in saying that there were a few Power Major's that still had the early wheels, but it might have only been to use up stock parts. I haven't been able to find anything definitive on this though.
Sandy

Nice Super Major, you seem to have the arms for the pick up hitch, as well as the frames for a Mil loader and earlier Major wheels everywhere. I don't think it's an NP, and you also seem to have the earlier lifting rod on the RH side. A serial number would be great, as well as more pics.
Sandy

I think so, 12-36 wes often fitted back then (at least here) as Billy and Super Billy and the half Super Major had them (Billy is back on 11-36 now) and they appear to have been fitted new. With an NP the 12-36 will give higher speed and probably without too great a pulling penalty, if however you w...

As far as I know Billy has never had an exhauster, but as the engine is not original it could have come from a lorry. On tractors they're pretty rare and almost exclusively on industrial ones, there do seem to be a few of those still around. As far as I know there aren't any farm trailers with speci...

It is indeed for brakes, the lorries had a hydrovac system, and a few tractors had a lever operated vacuum brake for trailers (but not the tractor itself). There's a whole section on this in the manual: https://www.fordson.se/8_9_Broms_sl%E4p_och_Elsystem_Suplement_Verkstadshandbok_001-012_och_001-0...

It's the screw just behind the injector pump on the block,below the maximum fuel stop in the pic. Note Billy has an injector pump that can drive an exhauster.

Sandy

The O-ring in one of the pictures, is it the one that needs to go between the block and head gasket? That's the seal for the oil feed plug screw for the vacuum exhauster. If it doesn't leak you're better not to disturb it as very few have moved since initial assembly at Dagenham, making for some po...

You seem to have a problem many people have, for that is not the original coupling. The original mark is much neater. 23º BTDC is correct.
Sandy

Nice Major you've got there. The rust on the crank doesn't look great. Give the engine a decent load or the smoke will never go, these engines were made for hard work.
Sandy

fordson.se have the whole manual in bits, I think there are other places that have it as one, all in pdf which makes them easy to find some of the time. Not so good when you're actually doing things.
Sandy

I'm referring to the original Ford manual, here's the NP hydraulics section: https://www.fordson.se/6B_Hydraul_Suple ... 25-050.pdf
Sandy