The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I would give it a go, keep the manual handy and be careful, you'll need a valve spring compressor for removing the springs. Could you post the inner diameter of the transmission and PTO plate hubs please (what you would use to centralise them with an alignment tool)?
Sandy

The pics are visible but a bit small on here, I think you used the "thumbnail for forums", which means it's not full size. The dynamo is controlled by the regulator, the warning light is connected to terminal D and Batt on the dynamo and ignition switch respectively. Batt is connected to the negativ...

A broken cover or distorted pressure plates, I don't think you have either of those, as it was NP Super Major's that broke the covers in general, and that was when working hard. You might be able to get away with simply replacing the adjusting bolts on the ends of the transmission toggle levers, but...

I know of the broken ones, but I think Brian said those were mostly on NP Super Major's and that was because of the extra power. Something I would like to try (as an experiment) is to make the cover out of something better than aluminium but with "the same mould" for use in heavy conditions, as that...

I mean it in the sense that they aren't the original design (some of them, there used to be some that were but I don't know if they're still available), I also prefer to repair it rather than get a new one if possible, although this one is pretty bad.
Sandy

Make a spacer to fill the gap, the bearing should be flush with the hub.
Sandy

Definitely a dual clutch, strip it first and see what it's like, new ones are expensive and wrong. Here's the manual:
http://www.fordson.se/4A_Koppling_Suple ... 01-016.pdf
Sandy

Look for 957E-7548B.
Sandy

I still don't see the ignition switch and wiring diagram pics, you also need to select a different expiry time, so that the pics last a bit longer. You do need the link. The previous four pics are still fine.
It's a wire for the oil pressure switch.
Sandy

Hi Shepp, I've seen the cheapskate alternative where someone had carefully gutted an old original dead battery and stood a smaller modern one inside the carcase so it looked genuine until you lift the bonnet :roll: Sounds like Varta is getting a few votes for quality. Do you have a pic of it? It mi...

I can't see the last two pics, there are no fuses on any Major and no coil on a diesel one either. The COIL terminal on the ignition switch goes to the starter switch and then to the solenoid, also powering the warning lights.
Sandy

Just found another Narrow Dexta (Bob Cullen's one, very visible here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7793) that does have the badge in the area where Davie has holes.
Sandy

To sort the handbrake you'll need to remove the gearbox, it's not complicated but it's a big job and you'll probably be best to look at lots of other things while you're there as it's not something you want to do lots of times if possible. What is wrong with the handbrake though? If all it needs is ...

This clamp is definitely for a single battery, although it's quite possible that the twin batteries came before the new tray and clamp with three rods (two at the ends near the middle and one in the centre) in place of this one with four rods round the edge (one of Billy's ones is lost, but with ple...

For the pics you can do as many as you like (I think I did more than 20 a few times with Billy's mudguard repair https://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8339 ), you can then select "Hotlink for forums" and copy that in to your post, you'll then have the pics visible here. The c...

The petrol one is smaller, the diesel battery requires removing the bonnet to get it in. Here we're on rough ground, so it's definitely needed. It does get close to the poles, but if you insulate them and keep the clamp tight you should be ok as nothing moves. It fits better with the original type c...

The thin bearing won't take the strain, unless you do Brian's fix with the spacer. You need the rod pretty close to full length on new parts if possible (with correct free play of 3/4").
Sandy

I think it's a 2" spanner, you could also use a bar. There's no torque setting, just get it nice and tight. Good you've got more bits.
Sandy

Unfortunately no, you'll need the correct bearing.
Sandy

If you're needing more adjustment you'll need to fix the clutch, as it means that the adjusting screws are not adjusted properly. If anyone has the correct sizes from the adjusting tools please post the measurement.
Sandy

Does it have a hefty clutch pedal with an adjusting screw? If so you should find a dual clutch inside, the stop bracket will have a pin and two holes. If the pedal is similar to the brake pedals, there's no adjusting screw and the stop bracket is made from 5/16" rod it indicates a single clutch link...

You should still see the dual clutch parts, if you have a good torch; good to know that the flywheel is "thicker". I think Russell's clutch is very worn.
Sandy

You won't see different thickness flywheels, what you will see is a gap or the springs and cover of the dual clutch.
Sandy

Is there an increase of pressure below the contact with the transmission levers? If not you'll need to split the bell housing, as it means the clutch needs major attention (assuming there is actually a dual clutch in there). As for the hydraulic lever, you should try to get it moving, it should come...

The final painting on the mudguard was done a while ago, but I have some pics today, showing the bits that have been done (also on Davie). https://i.postimg.cc/4dzVJGXw/DSCF0518.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/sDf7Rbq9/DSCF0524.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/wTWJx0dK/DSCF0525.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/jq4PmRgS/DS...