Fordson E27N Gearboxes

The High Major · Post by **The High Major** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:59 pm

Hello there!!

I’ve just joined this forum - so better introduce myself!! I’m Andrew - I have a 1949 Fordson E27N, which has been in my family from new.

The trouble is, it has a low-top gear box, which I’m finding painfully slow for travelling to shows any distance away.

Therefore, I’m looking to convert it to a high-top. So really, I’m asking for any advice on doing this.

Ideally, I would like to just change the top gear inside the gearbox, thereby retaining the original gearbox casting with the correct casting dates.

I believe I’ll need to know weather mine is a ‘red spot’ or ‘green spot’ in order to obtain a high top gear of the same type - how do I tell what it is without taking it completely to bits?

Are there any other potential problems, or pit-falls? The tractor is fitted with HPL - does this pose any problems?

Any comments, queries or suggestions gratefully received.

Many thanks,

Andrew

Emiel · Post by **Emiel** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:23 pm

Hello David,

Fitting a High speed transmission will only work when you replace the whole transmission, or the complete gear and shaft set, inclusive the front plate where the hand brake is fitted to.

This has something to do with the fitting of the handbrake etc. I do not remember exactly what is different, but I'll try to find out.

I wouldn't replace the tranny on an original 60 years old tractor, especially when the full history is known. Fitting a complete gearbox, inclusive casting is the easiest way to go and the best way to reconvert it also.

Please take in mind that the pto box and the lift drive box for low and high speed boxes are different too.

Best regards

Emiel

Dandy Dave · Post by **Dandy Dave** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 12:30 pm

Welcome Aboard Matey. E27Ns are rare here, so I cant help you much, but there are lot of folks on here that can. Glad to see that you have joined up.

Dandy Dave!

Tim W · Post by **Tim W** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:47 pm

Hi Andrew,

there are 4 sets of gear ratios fitted to E27's -
- standard green spot
- special red spot
- standard green spot with 4.3 transmission
- special red spot with 4.3 transmission

standard green spot and special red spot both had 8.3 top ratios, whereas the other 2 had 4.6 top ratios.

I have a 1948 E27N with the high top ratio and even this is not particularly quick for road runs. It would be a shame to spoil an original tractor for little real benefit and a lot of work. - Save the money and buy a faster tractor for road runs!!

Tim

The High Major · Post by **The High Major** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 9:58 pm

Hi all,

Thankyou for the welcome, and for your assistance. Having read through all that you have written I'm in agreement - it's better to keep the tractor original, especially when it's always been in the family.

My energy is better focused in getting the electrics working!!

As for another tractor - I like that suggestion, I drove a Super Major last year and comparativley it felt like a Ferrari!!

Andrew

Dandy Dave · Post by **Dandy Dave** » Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:18 pm

Think about how the farmers felt when they were able to finally shove the Fordson F to the back row, put the old team out to pasture, and hop on an E27N. I bet it felt like driving a Rolls.

Dandy Dave!

Jon V8 · Post by **Jon V8** » Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:59 pm

Hello all,new to the forum - and already have questions !
A neighbour has a P6 engined E27N,with a low top gear.When we go on road runs he drives us mad because his tractor is so slow.
Anyway he has bought what looks like a complete set of gears and shafts inc front plate and PTO box.I have accepted the task of fitting it.......
So my question is are there any good hints or tips to the job ?

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:06 pm

Hi there
As an ex E27N owner (TVO and L4) just remember the following:
1. Parts are real heavy - take care lifting + supporting.
2. Theres more oil than you think! Allow plenty of capacity for your container to catch it. It does splash.
3. The top left and bottom right (while sitting on the tractor) gearbox to engine flange bolts are different bolts to the rest, these ensure that the alignment between the flange faces are correct. Mark the bolts when removing and replace exactly. If you don't then you will have horrible noises and possible expenses!!
4. Don't forget to remove the PTO shaft before seperating.
5. While your there take the opportunity to replace the PTO unit to back axle oil seals as if they go your gearbox oil fills up the back axle.
Enjoy!

Jon V8 · Post by **Jon V8** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 2:38 pm

Thanks for that,I've got it all apart and just started a trial assembly of the box whilst its clean and dry on the bench.The tractor does not have a PTO nor hydraulics so its fairly simple in that respect.The "Oil" in the back end was like thick,(Very thick) dark brown treacle,so its good to have all that out and a good clean up.
Luckily it all came apart easily,not one nut or bolt refused me - but some of the gears were in a poor state.I dont think it would have lasted long if given hard work,the replacement cluster is in very good nick in comparison.I've only needed two new bearings - which suprised me as they were metric.
The only thing stopping me nailing it all back together is time,unfortunately other work keeps getting in the way.....

Jon V8 · Post by **Jon V8** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:41 am

Finally got around to finishing the job yesterday afternoon - what a difference it makes ! I drove it back to his farm last night,I wouldnt want it any faster for such a high tractor.Works a treat and was well worth the effort,not a difficult job with the right kit.You do need the complete cluster and front plate as stated,very little is the same.