HOW DO I GET THE REAR WHEELS OFF?

[Richards Fordson]

Hi,
This is my first tractor restoration. I have a 1942 N. I have managed to remove the 4 wheel bolts from each rear wheel, and have tightened the extractor studs but the retaining boss will not move. So for the past week I have been spraying red diesel over the splined shaft and around the rear of the boss. I have retightened the extractor studs and also on one side fitted a hub puller. With the puller as tight as it will go and the studs with a bar on the end of the spanner nothing has moved, even when left under tension over night. I am worried that the studs will break. Am I doing something wrong or have I missing something obvious?
Any ideas or experience you have would be appreciated.
Many thanks
Richard

[Dandy Dave]

I have removed wheels from several F Fordsons which was very similar to the N. If the axles are rusty it may take a tourch and a rosebud tip. The rust will "weld "them pretty dang tight. Dandy Dave!

[Shubys Tractor Farm]

Gday. I have lots of these models and I have struck the same problem. I have done exactly what you have and then I tried a simple old trick from my DaD AND THAT WAS TO HIT THE END OF THE RETRACTING BOLTS WITH A SLEDGE HAMMER - NOT OVERLY HARD, BUT THE JAR WAS ENOUGH TO BREAK THE SEAL. HEAT WILL ALSO HELP, BUT HOW DO YOU GET HEAT INTO THIS LARGE RESTRICTED AREA. A sledge hit to area surrounding the boss will also help while tension is being offered on yr removing bolts. The secret is to be very patient. Use lots of diesel over the area a bit each day. If you get it off - use lots of grease over every part when re-assebmling and you will not ever have this problem again. My Dad always insisted on me applying greas to every bolt and nut I ever did up. I have dis-assembled very old plows from the turn of last century and found bolts undid very easily - because they had greas on their threads. Anyway- I cannot help you any more - just give my ideas a try BUT not too severe and again be patient. This same method I have used on headbolts (Usually long and deep) and many other problem bolts or nuts and has worked every time for me - again by being patient. With stubbourn nuts or bolts IF YOU GET A FRAGMENT OF MOVEMENT, then just work them back and forth - each time moving it a tiny bit more. I use a metre long extension on my Sidchrome right angle driver and move it just a tiny bit each time. With care no bolts are broken and all removed safely and in the end there is no cost for re-manufacturing broken bolts - or extracting threads. Another suggestion is if the tractor is mobile - to drive it without the bolts attached - under good observation and you will see the wheel start to free up in due course. Primitave but it works. Hope this helps. Shubys tractor farm.

[Richards Fordson]

The wheels are off.
I made a steel frame and fitted a hydraulic jack between the end of the half shaft and the frame.
The frame bolted to the holes in the wheel.
A few pumps of the handle and the 30 ton ram just pulled the wheel off.
Seems easy after all my other efforts.