Gearbox bearing and seal questions

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Aussie Frank
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Gearbox bearing and seal questions

Post by Aussie Frank »

Hi all,

I am finally getting around to fixing the back end of my P6. I found a complete back end with a good diff and a special ratio "RED SPOT" gearbox as a replacement for the very badly rusted and pitted diff I am running around with now. I would like to use the gearbox but I need to fit new bearings as the existing ones are well worn.

Three out of the five bearings I can find real easily but the two roller type bearings I can't seem to find. The Fordson part numbers are N-7065-B and N-7118-A and they are a strange roller bearing with a collar on the rollers that run in a groove. They are actually Bower part numbers F-1562-A and F-1564-A. Does anyone know where I can get these from? SKF list deep groove ball bearings as replacements for these numbers. Can this be right?

The second problem I have is that the output shaft does not seem to want to come out of the gearbox housing. Do I have to split the gearbox off the diff to replace this bearing and seal? If I have to split the box and diff apart can I replace the bearing and seal with the engine attached to the gearbox or do I have to have the whole thing apart?

Thanks in advance.

Regards, Frank.
Real tractors don't need tin work to be beautiful.

Emiel
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Re: Gearbox bearing and seal questions

Post by Emiel »

Hello Frank,
hree out of the five bearings I can find real easily but the two roller type bearings I can't seem to find. The Fordson part numbers are N-7065-B and N-7118-A and they are a strange roller bearing with a collar on the rollers that run in a groove. They are actually Bower part numbers F-1562-A and F-1564-A. Does anyone know where I can get these from? SKF list deep groove ball bearings as replacements for these numbers. Can this be right?
Just use the newer type bearings, the collar type was in my E27N's box too, but the newer ones will probably be better, otherwise the old style would still be available.
he second problem I have is that the output shaft does not seem to want to come out of the gearbox housing. Do I have to split the gearbox off the diff to replace this bearing and seal? If I have to split the box and diff apart can I replace the bearing and seal with the engine attached to the gearbox or do I have to have the whole thing apart?
Bolt the gearbox housing to the engine, and take the rear transmission off, then you can take it easily apart to replace the parts.

Image

Best regards
Best regards

Emiel

N 1937, E27N 1948, 8N 1949, E27N 1950, E1A Diesel 1953, E1ADKN PP 1956, Dexta 1959, NH Clayson M103 1964

Aussie Frank
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Posts: 374
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Location: Melbourne Australia

Re: Gearbox bearing and seal questions

Post by Aussie Frank »

Thank you Emiel,
Emiel wrote:Hello Frank,
he second problem I have is that the output shaft does not seem to want to come out of the gearbox housing. Do I have to split the gearbox off the diff to replace this bearing and seal? If I have to split the box and diff apart can I replace the bearing and seal with the engine attached to the gearbox or do I have to have the whole thing apart?
Bolt the gearbox housing to the engine, and take the rear transmission off, then you can take it easily apart to replace the parts.
I was worried that the bearing would be a tight fit and not come out unless the shaft was pushed out first. If I can I would like to leave changing that bearing and seal to a later time. I will need to remove the rear transmission when I fit the roadless conversion and I do not want to pull it apart twice.

Regards, Frank.
Real tractors don't need tin work to be beautiful.

BarryM
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Re: Gearbox bearing and seal questions

Post by BarryM »

Frank,

Sorry for the late reply, but I had misplaced my Parts Supersession book.

Bearing N7065B was also used as the Outer Bearing in the Belt Pulley. I have changed a lot of Bearings in Belt Pulleys, but have never struck a Bearing with the Mushroom Head Roller. In fact, most of them have been only a Low Load Bearing.

Now to Bearing N7118A, this was changed to Part No. E1ADDN 7A 452, then back to N7118D, and then finally to N7118F. It would seem the Mushroom Head Roller Bearing was phased out in the late 1950's or early 1960's.
BarryM

Aussie Frank
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Posts: 374
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:49 am
Location: Melbourne Australia

Re: Gearbox bearing and seal questions

Post by Aussie Frank »

Hi Barry,

I finally decided to pull the whole box apart, separated the gearbox off the diff housing and pulled everything out. It was the right decision because there was nothing left of the output shaft seal and the top N-7065-B bearing would not come out without the output shaft being removed. That bearing was realy hammered hard and needed replacing more than any of the others.

Looking at the gearbox design, the top N-7065-B takes the highest load in the box along with the output shaft which is a 125 mm diameter bearing. The bottom N-7065-B bearing would be fine as a low load bearing, but given that I have a brand new P6 with everything set up as an 88 hp P6 V and 210 lbs ft torque my rough calculation of a static load of 2000 lbs is too close to the limit for a ball bearing given potential shock loading for the top one. I have the feeling Ford relaxed the specs on the bearings for replacement parts later on.

I dont know what bearings I will end up with but I do have a good bearing supplier close by and I will be trying to get bearings that have a load rating closer to the 9000 lbs of the original N-7065-B if I can. I am not sure about the N-7118-A vs N-7118-D interchange. My box is supposed to have one of each and even though the shaft diameter is the same the outer is different. The E1ADDN 7A 452 is a handy lead and may point in the right direction for a whole family of replacements. All the bearings are standard metric sizes (yes metric I could not believe it either) so suitable bearings hopefully should not be hard to get.

All this gearbox research is teaching me more than I ever wanted to know, but once I get all the bearing numbers I will put together a list, maybe Henk can add it to his list of bearings and seals.

Regards, Frank.
Real tractors don't need tin work to be beautiful.

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