E27 running issues

[Majormatt]

Hi I have just brought an original and un touched 1946 e27n with later manifold, but having difficulty getting to run right!

Have a feeling problem lies in the governor, I've had this apart and cleaned up, but quite a bit of wear needs sorting!

It will run, but on half choke and not responsive, unless you fiddle with the trottle and over ride the governor and will rev up, but still on half choke

Think problem is adjustment and wear in governor, but it also suggests fuel issue to?

Is there any basic settings for the carb and has anyone had similar trouble?

Thanks

Matt

[Emiel]

Hi,

Your governor has no influence on the quality of the fuel mixture. Running on the choke means the fuel supply in the zenith type carb is not good. Possibly blocked passage, wrong setting of idle mixture screw or maybe wrong float chamber fuel level.

Tractor should be able to run without governor. Try that and clean and check fuel line, filter gauze and carb.

These carbs can warp and draw in air where they should be sealed. That can be tested with brake cleaner while running.

Good luck with your project and please post pics or a YouTube link.

Rgds Emiel

[Majormatt]

Thanks for the advice, have had the carb off this eve, fully cleaned and made new gaskets.
Think a combination of muck and float a bit low, burst into life first time and running fairly well now, but still think governor still needs over haul, the domed pins have warn into the thrust plate and the spring is 5 mm shorter than recommended!

Will post some pics tomorrow!

Thanks for the advice!

[Majormatt]

Been playing again this afternoon, still not over happy with its running, it's wont rev particularly high, is this something that will be fixed when I sort the governor?
But I'm still wondering whether it's carb related, compared to my other e27, this one doesn't start particularly easily, the mixture screw is very stiff and I'm wondering if maybe it's bent- although I've had it out and cleaned it? Or is the fuel level in the carb still too low as when fuel is switched off, it stops almost instantly, where as my other one will run for a good 10 to 15 seconds before it stops?!

I'm tempted to swap carbs and see what happens!

Any ideas would be greatfully recieved!

Thanks

[R W]

From memory they would run for more than 10/15 seconds with the fuel turned off.

[Timeee]

Dear Matt

This could be quite a saga. I had similar problems with my 1947 E27N, although it was fitted with the earlier vaporisor and float chamber. I had the same symptoms and each time I found something "wrong", it would improve, but would still not rev cleanly. This was the sequence I ended up going through to finally get a clean running tractor (and about 5 months of trying and testing). Some of these are obvious, so excuse me if you have already addressed them.

1. Both fuel tanks had debris in the bottom, restricting the flow of fuel. The petrol one was easiest to clean, but the only way to solve the TVO part was to slosh seal it.

2. Fuel Lines. Is there a good flow to the Carb? My fuel pipe from the fuel tap to float chamber was partially blocked with furry bits of some animal that had somehow expired in the tank!

3. Check the float level and that the valve is not sticking. An intermittent sticking valve was a pain and I became one of those people who was forever tapping the float chamber, before getting a new valve and float. The old float had a pin prick hole in it.

4. Air Leaks. On mine, there was an air pipe that ran up the back of the venturi tube to the back of the "carb". This was loose in the manifold at the bottom and let in air, weakening the mixture. But not all the time, because it would move in its seat and sometimes seal itself. Securing it firmly made a lot of difference.

5. Old manifolds can become very thin with the cycle of heating up, cooling and rusting. Mine had a tiny hole in it allowing air to be drawn in from the exhaust side, to the inlet side which upset the mixture.

6. So with the fuel system well sorted and a new manifold, it ran brilliantly for about 2 hours of saw bench work, when suddenly, it reverted to its old "weak mixture" symptom and wouldn't rev cleanly. I had had the magneto rebuilt when I first got the tractor out of a rhododendron bush near Walton-Upon-Thames (don't ask!), so discounted that.....but after having it checked out, it was the magneto, so back it went for another rebuild (under warranty).

So hopefully yours will not have that catalogue of woe, but my experiences may give you some ideas. At least you can swop known good items from your other tractor to help identify the fault(s)

Good luck

Tim E

[Majormatt]

Good news!

Swapped carb off known good tractor, put new governor kit in from old 20 parts, now revs out well and pulls like a train!!
So have sent old carb to vintage tractor spares to our haul it!

Now to sort brakes out(right brake locks every time you press the clutch!)

And steering box as severe wobble In top gear- it's a high top model!

Thanks for the help, am definitely going to get pics up this weekend!

Cheers

Matt

[Emiel]

Hi,

Good to hear about the improvements.

Rgds Emiel

[Majormatt]

Album of my recently acquired e27n and standard n cutting up pallets!

[Majormatt]

Been playing again today, found the flap in the manifold was in the closed position, luckily able to free it all off(most are seized solid) the adjusting end had cracked off but was able to weld up with cast rods.

Now set to the open position and fired up and must say runs better again!

[Majormatt]

Made a bush today to sort the clutch pedal out, the bush in gear box casting was warn and allowing a lot of free play on the cross shaft. As the clutch was depressed it was grabbing the cross shaft and applying the brake rather than pivoting on the cross shaft!